< Previous80 Harper’s Bazaar Saudi Summer 2021 ﺔﻓﺎﻘﺜﻟا The work of Riyadh-based artist Muhannad Shono is made from an imagined state of being, one devoid of a particular time and place زوﺎﺠﺘﺗ ﺔﻳدﻮﺟو ﺔﻟﺎﺣ ةﺮﻤﺛ ﻲﻫ ﻮﻧﻮﺷ ﺪﻨﻬﻣ ،ضﺎﻳﺮﻟا ﻲﻓ ﻢﻴﻘﻤﻟا نﺎﻨﻔﻟا لﺎﻤﻋأ لﺎﻴﺨﻟا ﻢﻟاﻮﻋ ﻲﻓ حﺮﺴﺗو نﺎﻜﻤﻟاو نﺎﻣﺰﻟا دوﺪﺣ Muhannad Shono. Our Inheritance of Meaning. 2019. Charcoal transfer on tape. 200x100cm BE Y O ND WO R D S “ﲎﻌﳌا ﺔﺛارو” ﻮﻧﻮﺷ ﺪﻨﻬﻣ ﰟ 200x100 .2019 HBSA_002_080to085_ArtistMuhannad_11727386.indd 8004/07/2021 03:15:45 PM ﺔــﻌﻄﻗ ﲆــﻋ ﺔــﺟﺮﻌﺘﳌا ءادﻮــﺴﻟا طﻮــﻄﺨﻟا ﻰــﻐﻃ ﻦــﻣ تﺎــﺨﻄﻟ زﱪــﺗ ﺎــﻬﻨﻴﺑ ،ﺾــﻴﺑﻷا قرﻮــﻟا ﻦــﻣ ﺔــﻠﻳﻮﻃ نﺎــﺼﻏأ ﻪﺒــﺸﺗ ﺔــﺣﻮﻟ ﺞــﺴﻨﺘﻟ دﻮــﺳﻷا ﱪــﺤﻟاو ﻢــﺤﻔﻟا ﻦــﺋﺎﻛ ﺪــﻴﺑ ﻪﺒــﺷأ ﻞــﻤﻌﻟا وﺪــﺒﻳ .ﺔﺒﻌــﺸﺘﳌا رﺎﺠــﺷﻷا كﺮﺗو ﻪــﻘﻳﺮﻃ ﰲ ّثرــﻌﺗ ﺺﺨــﺷ وأ ﺢﺒــﺷ ﺎــبمر وأ لﻮــﻬﺠﻣ ﱃوﻷا ﺔــﻤﻠﻜﻟا ﻲــﻫ هﺬــﻫ) ﺔــﺣﻮﻟ ﱪــﺘﻌﺗ ﺚــﻴﺣ ،ضرﻷا ﲆــﻋ هرﺎــﺛآ ﻦــﻣ 2019 ﻮﻧﻮــﺷ ﺪــﻨﻬﻣ يدﻮﻌــﺴﻟا نﺎــﻨﻔﻟا ﺎــﻬﻋﺪﺑأ ﻲــﺘﻟا (ةيرــﺧﻷاو ﺖــﺿﺮُﻋ ﻲــﺘﻟا ةﺪــﻳﺪﻌﻟا لماــﻋﻷا ﻦــﻣ قرﻮــﻟا ﲆــﻋ ﱪــﺤﻟاو ﻢــﺤﻔﻟا (ﻢــﻠﻜﺘﻳ لاز ﺎــﻣ نﻮﻜــﺴﻟا) ناﻮــﻨﻋ ﻞــﻤﺤﻳ يﺬــﻟا يدﺮــﻔﻟا ﻪــﺿﺮﻌﻣ ﰲ .ةﺪــﺠﺑ ﺮــﺛأ ضﺮــﻌﻣ ﻦــﻤﺿ لﻼــﺧ ﻦــﻣ ﺔــﻤﻠﻜﻟا ﺔــﻣزﻷ نﺎــﻨﻔﻟا رﻮــﻈﻨﻣ ضﺮــﻌﳌا لوﺎــﻨﺘﻳ ﻢــﺤﻔﻟا تماــﻠﻛ ﺪــﻨﻬﻣ ﻦــﺤﻄﻳ ﺚــﻴﺣ ،زاﺰــﺘﻫﻻاو ناﻮــﻟﻷا ماﺪﺨﺘــﺳا عﺪﺒﻴﻟ عﻮﻤــﺴﳌا يرــﻏ ﻒــﻴﻄﻟا تاذ تزاﺰــﺘﻫﻻا مﺪﺨﺘــﺴﻳو ﺔــﺒﻠﺼﺘﳌا ﲆــﻋ دﻮــﺳﻷا ﱪــﺤﻠﻟ ﺔﻴﺋاﻮــﺸﻌﻟا لﺎﻜــﺷﻷا ﺎــﻬﻄﺨﺗ ةﺪــﻳﺪﺟ تماــﻠﻛ ينــﺑ حﴪــﻴﻟ ﴫــﺒﻟاو ﻊﻤــﺴﻟا ساﻮــﺣ ﺎــﻫﺎﻨﻌﻣ زوﺎــﺠﺘﻳو ،قرﻮــﻟا .ﺔﻴﺋاﻮــﺸﻌﻟا طﻮــﻄﺨﻟا The CULTURE Numerous black squiggly lines of an undefi ned shape cover the surface of a long piece of white paper. There are smudges made by black charcoal and ink and there seems to be a struggle of some sort between the lines; the smudges and more precisely confi gured lines almost echo the intricate branches of a tree. The work seems to be the hand of some unknown being or object, maybe a ghost or someone who lost his or her way, stumbled and in the process of recuperating, left a few marks on the ground. This is The First and Last Word (2019) by Saudi artist Muhannad Shono, made in charcoal and ink on paper – one of several works that were on display in The Silence is Still Talking, the artist’s solo show at Athr Gallery in Jeddah. Through the use of pigment and vibration, the artist studies what he deems “the crisis of the word.” In each work Muhannad grinds hardened charcoal words to dust and then employs vibrations from inaudible spectrums of 81 Harper’s Bazaar Saudi Summer 2021 HBSA_002_080to085_ArtistMuhannad_11727386.indd 8104/07/2021 03:15:59 PM82 Harper’s Bazaar Saudi Summer 2021 ﺔﻓﺎﻘﺜﻟا sound to result in the new “words” – undefi ned black pigment forms – on paper. Muhannad’s depictions on paper are the result of the artist’s inquiry into the shifting states of storytelling that occupy contemporary society. He believes that human beings have a tendency to place faith in stories and myths, drawing us to the construction of our present, past and future worlds. Such exploration stems from the artist’s “imagined state of being.” It’s a state that is devoid of time and place and that simply exists. In many ways, it also frees the artist from his own sense of displacement. “I was born in Saudi but my parents are originally Syrian and ethnically from southern Russia,” says the artist, who grew up when Saudi Arabia was at its most conservative. “This was pre-Internet and back in a time when any kind of دﴪــﻟ ةيرــﻐﺘﳌا ﺐﻴﻟﺎــﺳﻷا ﻦــﻋ ﻪﺗﻻؤﺎــﺴﺗ ﺔــﺠﻴﺘﻧ قرﻮــﻟا ﲆــﻋ ﺪــﻨﻬﻣ تﺎــﻋاﺪﺑإ تيﺄــﺗ ﻲﺘﻟا يرﻃﺎــﺳﻷاو ﺺــﺼﻘﻟا ﱃإ نﻮــﻠﻴيم ﴩــﺒﻟا نأ ىﺮــﻳ ﺚــﻴﺣ ،ﴏﺎــﻌﳌا ﻊــﻤﺘﺠﳌا ﰲ ﺺــﺼﻘﻟا نﺎــﻨﻔﻟا ﺔــﻟﺎﺣ ﻦــﻣ تيﺄــﻳ ﺎــﻣ اﺬــﻫ ،ﻞﺒﻘﺘــﺴﳌاو ﴈﺎــﳌاو ﴐﺎــﺤﻟا لماﻮــﻋ ءﺎــﻨﺑ ﰲ ﻢــﻬﻤﻬﻠﺗ نﺎﻨﻔﻟا رﺮــﺤﺘﻟ ،لﺎــﻴﺨﻟا لماﻮــﻋ ﰲ حﴪــﺗو نﺎﻜــﳌاو نﺎــﻣﺰﻟا دوﺪــﺣ زوﺎــﺠﺘﺗ ﻲــﺘﻟا ﺔــﻳدﻮﺟﻮﻟا .ءماــﺘﻧﻻا مﺪــﻋو ﺔــﺑﺮﻐﻟﺎﺑ ﻪــﺳﺎﺴﺣإ ﻦــﻣ ينﻳرﻮــﺳ ﻦــﻳﺪﻟاﻮﻟ ﺔﻳدﻮﻌــﺴﻟا ﰲ تﺪــﻟو» :ﺔﻳدﻮﻌــﺴﻟا ﰲ عﺮــﻋﺮﺗ يﺬــﻟا نﺎــﻨﻔﻟا لﻮــﻘﻳو ﻦﻜﻤﳌا ﻦــﻣ نﺎﻛ ينﺣ ﺖــﻧﱰﻧﻹا رﺎــﺸﺘﻧا ﻞــﺒﻗ اﺬــﻫ نﺎﻛ ،ﺎﻴــﺳور بﻮــﻨﺟ ﱃإ ماــﻬﻟﻮﺻأ دﻮــﻌﺗ يرﻏ ﱄﻮــﺻأو ﻲــﺘﻳﻮﻬﻟ كياردإ ﺐﺒــﺴﺑو .تارﺎــﻄﳌا ﰲ ﺔــﻴﻨﻔﻟا لماــﻋﻷا ﻦــﻣ عﻮــﻧ يأ ةردﺎــﺼﻣ ﺔﻧﺎﻌﺘــﺳﻼﻟ ﻲــﻨﻌﻓد ماــﻣ ،ءماــﺘﻧﻻا مﺪــﻋو ﺔــﻟﺰﻌﻟﺎﺑ تﺮﻌــﺷ ،ةﺮــﻜﺒﻣ ﻦــﺳ ﺬــﻨﻣ ﺔﻳدﻮﻌــﺴﻟا ﻊﻗاﻮﻟا ﻦــﻣ بوﺮﻬﻟا ﲆــﻋ ًاردﺎــﻗ ﻦﻜﻳ لم ﻪــﻧأ ﻻإ .«ﻊــﻗاﻮﻟا ﻦــﻣ بوﺮــﻬﻠﻟ ﻲــﻋاﺪﺑإو ﻲــﺘﻠﻴﺨبم .ﻪــﻋاﺪﺑإ ﺞــﺴﻧ ﻦــﻣ ﺮــﺧآ ﱄﺎــﻴﺧ ٍلمﺎــﻋ ﰲ ﺮــﺤﺒﻴﻟ ﺺــﺼﻘﻟا ﺔــﺑﺎﺘﻜﺑ أﺪــﺑ اﺬــﻟ ،ﻞــﻣﺎﻜﻟﺎﺑ ﱪــﻌﺗ ةرﻮــﺼﳌا ﺐــﺘﻜﻟا ﰲ ﺔــﻴﻟﺎﻴﺧ تﺎﻴﺼﺨــﺷ رﺎﻜــﺘﺑا ﱃإ ﺰــﺠﻌﻟﺎﺑ يرﻮﻌــﺷ ﻲــﻨﻌﻓد» ﺎــﻣ نﺎــﻋﴎ ﻦــﻜﻟو ،لﺎــﻴﺨﻟا رﻮﻄــﺳ ينــﺑ ﻊــﻗاﻮﻟا ﻦــﻋ ﺚــﺤﺒﻠﻟ ﺔــﻟوﺎﺤﻣ ﰲ ﻲــﺘﻳﻮﻫ ﻦــﻋ .«ﺖــﻗﻮﻟا ﻚــﻟذ ﰲ ﺔﻳدﻮﻌــﺴﻟا ﰲ ةﺪﺋﺎــﺴﻟا تاﺪــﻘﺘﻌﳌا ﺔــﻴﺤﺿ لماﻮــﻌﻟا هﺬــﻫ ﺖــﻌﻗو ﰲ ةﺮــﺣ تﺎﻴﺼﺨــﺸﻟا ﺖــﻧﺎﻛ ﺚــﻴﺣ ،ﱄﺎــﻴﺨﻟا ﺪــﻨﻬﻣ لمﺎــﻋ ﲆــﻋ ءاﺪــﺘﻋا ﺔــﺑﺎﺜبم اﺬــﻫ نﺎﻛ لم» :ﺔــﻜﻠﻤﳌا ﰲ نﻵا ّيرــﻐﺗ ءﳾ ﻞﻛ ﻦــﻜﻟ .ﺔﻴﺼﺨــﺸﻟا ﻪــﺗﺎﺒﻏر ﺲــﻜﻌﻳ ﺎــبم ﺶــﻴﻌﻟاو ﺮﻔــﺴﻟا ﻲــﻃ ﰲ ﺔــيمﺪﻗ ةرﻮــﺻ دﺮــﺠﻣ ةرﻮــﺼﻟا ﻚــﻠﺗ ﺖــﺤﺒﺻأ ﺚــﻴﺣ ،ﺖــﻧﺎﻛ ماــﻛ ﺔﻳدﻮﻌــﺴﻟا ﺪــﻌﺗ .«رﺎــﺒﺘﻋﻻا ينــﻌﺑ هﺬــﺧأ ﺎــﻨﻴﻠﻋ ﺎــﻣ اﺬــﻫو ،ةيرــﺒﻛ ﺔــﻋﴪﺑ ثﺪــﺣ يرــﻴﻐﺘﻟا ﻦــﻜﻟ ،نﺎﻴــﺴﻨﻟا ﱄماــﻋأ حﴪــﺗ ﺎــﻣ ًﺎــﺒﻟﺎﻏ» :ﻪــﻠﻤﻋ ﰲ ﺪــﻨﻬﻣ ﺎــﻬﻟوﺎﻨﺘﻳ ﻊــﻴﺿاﻮﻣ ﻲــﻫ تايرــﻴﻐﺘﻟا هﺬــﻫ ﻞﻛ ﻦــﻣ عﻮــﻧ يأ سﺮــﻏ ﰲ ﻲــﺘﺒﻏر مﺪــﻋو بﱰــﻐﻤﻛ ﻲــﺘﻴﻔﻠﺧ ﺐﺒــﺴﺑ ﺐﻴﻟﺎــﺳﻷاو داﻮــﳌا ينــﺑ تﺎــﻴﻨﻘﺘﻟاو ﺖــﺤﻨﻟاو مﻼــﻓﻷاو قرﻮــﻟاو ﱪــﺤﻟا ﻪــﺗاودأ ﻞﻤــﺸﺗ .«دﺪــﺤﻣ نﺎﻜــﳌ ءماــﺘﻧﻻا ﺪــﺣاو قﺎﻴــﺳ ﰲ ةﺪــﻴﻘﻌﻟاو ةرﻮﻄــﺳﻷاو دﴪــﻟا ﻮــﺤﻧ ﲇــﻤﻋ ﻞــﻴيم ﺎــﻣ ًﺎــﺒﻟﺎﻏ» :ﺔــﻴﻜﻴﻧﺎﻜﻴﳌا ﱃإ ًﺎــﻣود ﲇﻘﻋ ﻞــﻴيم ،لﺎــﺜﳌا ﻞﻴﺒــﺳ ﲆــﻌﻓ ،ﻊــﻗاﻮﻟا يﺪــﺤﺘﻟ ﺔــﻔﻠﺘﺨﻣ ﻞــﻣاﻮﻋ ﻊــﻣ ﺎــﻬﻌﻤﺠﻳ .«ءﺎﻴــﺷﻷا ينﺑ فﻼــﺘﺧﻻاو ﻞــﺻﻮﻟا طﺎــﻘﻧ دﺎــﺠﻳإو ةرﻮﻄــﺳﻷا وأ ﺦــﻳرﺎﺘﻟا ﻦــﻣ ﺐــﻧاﻮﺟ جﺰــﻣ ﺔــﻠﻴﻤﺠﻟا نﻮــﻨﻔﻠﻟ بﺮــﻗﻷا ةدﺎــﳌا ﺖــﻧﺎﻛ ﺎــﻬﻧﻷ ﺔﻳدﻮﻌــﺴﻟا ﰲ ةرماــﻌﻟا ﺪــﻨﻬﻣ سرد سﺮــﻜﻳ نأ ﻞــﺒﻗ ةرّﻮــﺼﳌا ﺺــﺼﻘﻟاو نﻼــﻋﻹا لﺎــﺠﻣ ﰲ ﻞــﻤﻌﻠﻟ ﻞــﻘﺘﻧا ﻢــﺛ ،ﺔــﻜﻠﻤﳌا ﰲ ﺔﻠﻘﺘــﺴﻣ ﺔﻠﻴــﺳﻮﻛ ﺎــﻬﺑ ﻲــﻣماﺘﻫا ﺐﺒــﺴﺑ ةرﻮــﺼﳌا ﺐــﺘﻜﻟا ُﺖــﻔﻟأ» :ﻦــﻔﻠﻟ ﻞــﻣﺎﻜﻟﺎﺑ ﻪــﺴﻔﻧ A detail shot of Muhannad Shono’s The Lost Path, Desert X AlUla. 2020 ﺪﻨﻬﻣ ﻦﻣThe Lost Path ﺔﺑﺮﻘﻣ ةرﻮﺻ ﰲ ﻮﻧﻮﺷ HBSA_002_080to085_ArtistMuhannad_11727386.indd 8205/07/2021 08:59:27 AM83 Harper’s Bazaar Saudi Summer 2021 artwork or family photos – anything representing the human fi gure may be confi scated at the airport. Because of my identity and awareness that I was an outsider and that I wasn’t original [Saudi], from a young age I felt like I was in the wrong place. I would turn towards my imagination and to fi ction in order to process reality.” Still, he wasn’t able to completely rewrite reality. In order to process the world around him, he began to write stories and narratives; he created for himself another “imagined” world. “I felt helpless and so I started creating comic-book characters and projecting myself through these characters to process reality through fi ction,” he says. “Very early on, this relationship with my fi ctitious characters was challenged by the ideological beliefs in the country at the .«لﺎــﻴﺨﻟا ﺞــﺴﻧ ﻦــﻣ لماﻮــﻋ رﺎﻜــﺘﺑا ﺢــﻴﺘﺗ ﻞــﺴﻠﺴﺘﳌا ﴢــﺼﻘﻟا دﴪــﻠﻟ ،ﺔﻳدﻮﻌــﺴﻟا ﰲ ةرﻮــﺼﳌا ﺺــﺼﻘﻟا ﱃوأ ﻦــﻣ لوﻷا رّﻮــﺼﳌا ﻪــﺑﺎﺘﻛ نﺎﻛ ﻪﺗﺎﻴﺼﺨــﺷ ﻦــﻣ يرــﺜﻜﻟا ﺔــﺳرماﻣ ﺐﺒــﺴﺑ هراﺪــﺻإ ﺖــﻌﻨﻣ ﺔــﺑﺎﻗﺮﻟا ﻪــﻨﻜﻟ .«بﺎــﺘﻜﻟا ﺔــﻋﺎﺒﻄﺑ ﱄ ﺢﻤــﺴُﻳ لم اﺬــﻟ عﻮــﻨﻤﻣ ﺮﺤــﺴﻟا نإ ﱄ ﻞــﻴﻗ» :ﺮﺤــﺴﻠﻟ دﻮــﻌﻳ نأ ﻞــﺒﻗ 2015 ﻰــﺘﺣو 2007 مﺎــﻋ ﻦــﻣ ﺎﻴﻟاﱰــﺳأ ﱃإ نﺎــﻨﻔﻟا ﻞــﻘﺘﻧا رﺎــﻃإ ﰲ ﺎﻬﻓﺎــﺸﻜﺘﺳا ﻞــﺻاﻮﻳ ﻲــﺘﻟا تايرــﻴﻐﺘﻟا ﻒــﺼﻳ ﺚــﻴﺣ ،ﺔﻳدﻮﻌــﺴﻟا ﱃإ ًﺎــﻧﺎﻜﻣ ﺔﻳدﻮﻌــﺴﻟا ﺖــﻧﺎﻛ ﺚــﻴﺣ ؛يرــﻴﻐﺘﻟا ﺖــﻈﺣﻻ تﺪــﻋ ﺎــﻣﺪﻨﻋ» :ﻪــﻠﻤﻋ لﻼــﺧ ﻪــﺗﺪﻬﻋ ماــﻋ يرﺬــﺟ ﻞﻜــﺸﺑ ﺔــﻔﻠﺘﺨﻣ ةﺎــﻴﺤﻟا ﺖــﺤﺒﺻأو ًﺎــﻔﻠﺘﺨﻣ تﻻﺎــﺠﳌا ﺾــﻌﺑ ﰲ ةأﺮــﳌاو ﻞــﺟﺮﻟا ينــﺑ ﺰــﻴﻴﻤﺘﻟا ﻰــﻔﺘﺧا ﺪــﻘﻓ ،ﻲــﺘﻟﻮﻔﻃ ﻊــﻣ ﺔــﻳﻮﻔﻋو ًﺎــﺣﻮﻤﻃو ﺔــﻗﺎﻃ نﻮــﻠﻤﺤﻳ سﺎــﻨﻟا ﺢــﺒﺻأو .ةدﺎــﻴﻘﻟا ﺎــﻬﻨﻣو .“ﱄﻮــﺣ ﻦــﻣ نﻵا ﺮــﻫدﺰﺗ ﻲــﺘﻟا ﺐــﻫاﻮﳌا ﻦــﻣ يرــﺜﻜﻟا ﲆــﻋ ﺪــﻤﺘﻌﻳ يﺬــﻟا يﺪــﻳﺮﺠﺘﻟا ﺎــﻬﻌﺑﺎﻄﺑ ﺔــﻴﻨﻔﻟا ﺪــﻨﻬﻣ ﺔــﻐﻟ ﻢــﺴﺘﺗ Muhannad Shono. The Lost Path, Desert X AlUla. Made from 65,000 recyclable PVC pipes. 2020 ﻞﻤﻋ ،The L ost Path .ﻮﻧﻮﺷ ﺪﻨﻬﻣ ﻞﺑﺎﻗ PVC بﻮﺒﻧأ 65,000 ﻦﻣ عﻮﻨﺼﻣ 2020 .ﺮﻳوﺪﺘﻟا ةدﺎﻋﻹ HBSA_002_080to085_ArtistMuhannad_11727386.indd 8304/07/2021 03:16:26 PM84 Harper’s Bazaar Saudi Summer 2021 ﺔﻓﺎﻘﺜﻟا time.” This was an assault on Muhannad’s make-believe world. In that world, the characters he created were free to travel and live as they wanted to live, just as he desired to do. Everything has changed now in Saudi Arabia. “This old Saudi seems so foreign for us,” says Muhannad. “It’s an extinct narrative, the old ideology. But things have shifted so quickly. It’s important that we don’t get too comfortable.” In 2007, the artist moved to Australia where he lived until 2015, after which he moved back to Saudi. “When I came back I noticed the change; Saudi was already a different place,” he says. “Today, life is drastically different from how I grew up: The dividing lines between the genders are more forgiving and in some circles, non-existent. A younger generation was now in the driver’s seat, including women. People seem energetic and full of dreams, there is an innocence to things mixed with so much talent now fl ourishing all around me.” Muhannad’s artistic language is conceptual in nature and made through various materials, techniques and technologies. Numerous abstract interpretations leave the viewer with questions to answer and messages to unearth relating to religious and cultural myths. “The heavy use of abstraction in Saudi art is interesting because I think it relates to what I went through,” he explains. The centrepiece of The Silence is Still Talking is The Silent Press, a large-scale installation consisting of three conjoined ةدﺎــﻋﻹ ﺪﻫﺎــﺸﻤﻠﻟ لﺎــﺠﳌا ﺢــﺴﻔﺗ ﺚــﻴﺣ ،تﺎــﻴﻨﻘﺘﻟاو داﻮــﳌا ﻦــﻣ ﺔــﻋﻮﻨﺘﻣ ﺔــﻋﻮﻤﺠﻣ ماﺪﺨﺘــﺳﻻا ﻲــﻨﺘﻔﻠﻳ» :ﺔــﻴﻓﺎﻘﺜﻟاو ﺔــﻴﻨﻳﺪﻟا يرﻃﺎــﺳﻷا لﻮــﺣ ﺔﻠﺌــﺳأو ﻢــﻴﻫﺎﻔﻣ ﰲ ﺮــﻈﻨﻟا ،ﺔــﺻﺎﺨﻟا ﻲــﺘﺑﺮﺠﺗ كيﺎــﺤﻳ اﺬــﻫ نﻷ يدﻮﻌــﺴﻟا ﻦــﻔﻟا ﰲ يﺪــﻳﺮﺠﺘﻟا بﻮﻠــﺳﻸﻟ يرــﺒﻜﻟا رﻮﻣأ ﺮــﻳﻮﺼﺗ وأ ﻦــﻔﻠﻟ ﺔﻳﺰﻣﺮﻟا ﺐــﻧاﻮﺠﻟا فﺎــﺸﺘﻛﻻ ﺔــﻴﻨﻓ سراﺪــﻣ كﺎــﻨﻫ ﻦــﻜﻳ لم اذﺈــﻓ ﺔﻘﻳﺮﻄﺑ يرــﻜﻔﺘﻟا ﻪﻟ ﺢــﻴﺘﺗ ﺔﻌــﺳاو ﺔــﻠﻴﺨﻣ ﺮــﻳﻮﻄﺗ ﱃإ نﺎــﻨﻔﻟا ﺄﺠﻠﻴــﺳ ،ﺔــﻴﻌﻗاﻮﻟا ةﺎــﻴﺤﻟا .ةﺪــﻳﺪﺟ ﺔــﻳﴫﺑ ﺔــﻐﻟ ﺪــﻳﺮﺠﺘﻟا ﺢــﺒﺼﻳ اﺬــﻜﻫو ،ةﺮــﻜﺘﺒﻣ ﺔــﻳﺪﻳﺮﺠﺗ ﺎــﻬﻴﻓ ﺎــبم ،ﺔــﻳدﺮﻔﻟا ضرﺎــﻌﳌا ﻦــﻣ ﺪــﻳﺪﻌﻟا ﺪــﻨﻬﻣ مﺎــﻗأ ،ضﺎــﻳﺮﻟا ﱃإ ﻪــﺗدﻮﻋ ﺬــﻨﻣو ،سوﺎﻫﺮﻠﺘــﺴﻧﻮﻛ ﰲ (سﻮــﻘﻄﻟا ﺔﻟآ)و ؛ﺮــﺛأ ضﺮــﻌﻣ ﰲ 2016 مﺎــﻋ (مﺎــﻳ لﺎــﻔﻃأ) ضﺮــﻌﻣ ،مﺎــﻌﻟا ﻚــﻟذ ًﺎــﻘﺣﻻ مﺎــﻣﺪﻟﺎﺑ ءاﺮــﺛإ ﺰــﻛﺮﻣ ﰲ ﻪــﺿﺮﻋ ﻢــﺗ يﺬــﻟاو 2018 مﺎــﻋ ينــﻟﺮﺑ ﻒــﺤﺘﻣو نﺪــﻨﻠﺑ نيﺎــﻄﻳﱪﻟا ﻒــﺤﺘﳌا ﰲ ﺔــﻴﻋماﺠﻟا ضرﺎــﻌﳌا ﻦــﻣ ﺪــﻳﺪﻌﻟا ﱃإ ﺔــﻓﺎﺿﻹﺎﺑ ﻮــﺘﻧورﻮﺗ ﰲ ﺮــﺧآ ضﺮــﻌﻣو ينــﻟﺮﺑ ﰲ لمﺎــﻌﻟا تﺎــﻓﺎﻘﺛ ﺖــﻴﺑو ﴏﺎــﻌﳌا ﻦــﻔﻠﻟ ﺔﻧﻮﻠــﺷﺮﺑ ،ينﺘــﺳﺎﻏدﺎﺑ ﰲ ﺰﻧﺪﻳﺰﺘــﺴُﻛ :ﻞﺜﻣ ،ﺎــﺑوروأ ﰲ ﺔــﻴﻨﻓ تﺎﻣﺎﻗإ ة ﱢﺪــﻌﻟ يرــﺘﺧا .يرــﺜﻜﻟا ﺎــﻫيرﻏو ﰲ ًﺎــﻴﻟﺎﺣ كرﺎــﺸﻳ ماـ ـﻛ .2017 اﴪﻳﻮــﺳ ،ﺦــﻳروز ﰲ ﱪــﺘﺨﳌا ﰲ نﻮــﻧﺎّﻨﻓو ،2017 ﺎــﺴﻤﻨﻟا ﻪــﻟماﻋأ ﺾــﻌﺑ ءﺎــﻨﺘﻗا ﻢــﺗو ،ينــﻟﱪﺑ سوﺎﻫﺮﻠﺘــﺴﻧﻮﻛ ﰲ مﺎــﻋ ةﺪــﳌ ﻲــﻨﻓ ﺔــﻣﺎﻗإ ﺞــﻣﺎﻧﺮﺑ ضﺮــﻌﻣ ﻊــﻄﻗ زﺮــﺑأ ﺖﻠﻤــﺷ .ﻞــﻴﻤﺟ ﻦــﻔﻟا ضﺮــﻌﻣو نيﺎــﻄﻳﱪﻟا ﻒــﺤﺘﳌا ﻞــﺒﻗ ﻦــﻣ ﺔﻘﺼﺘﻠﳌا ﺔــﻐﺒﺻﻷا ﻦــﻣ تﺎــﻓﺎﻔﻟ ثﻼــﺛ ﻦــﻣ ًماــﺨﺿ ًماــﺴﺠﻣ (ﻢــﻠﻜﺘﻳ لاز ﺎــﻣ نﻮﻜــﺴﻟا) ﺎــﻨﺌﺟﺎﻔﻳ تماــﻠﻜﻟا ﻦــﻣ ًﻻﺪــﺑ ﻦــﻜﻟ ،ﺔــيمﺪﻘﻟا ﺔــﻴﻔﺤﺼﻟا تﺎــﻋﻮﺒﻄﳌﺎﻛ قرﻮــﻟا ﲆــﻋ ،ﺎــﻬﻋﻮﻧ ﻦــﻣ ةﺪــﻳﺮﻓ ﺔــﻐﻟ ﰲ ﻢــﺤﻔﻟاو ﱪــﺤﻟا ﻦــﻣ ﺔﻴﺋاﻮــﺸﻋ لﺎﻜــﺷأو طﻮــﻄﺨﺑ ﺪــﻨﻬﻣ ﻻ لماﻮــﻋ ﰲ ﺺــﻨﻟا دﻮــﻴﻗ ﻦــﻣ ﺔــﻤﻠﻜﻟا ﺮــﻳﺮﺤﺘﻟ ﺔــﺘﻣﺎﺻ ةﻮــﻋد ﻢــﺴﺠﳌا ﺪــ ّﺴﺠﻳ ﺚــﻴﺣ ،ﺔــﻐﻠﻟا ﻊــﻣ ﺔــﺒﻳﺮﻐﻟا ﻲــﺘﻗﻼﻋ ﻦــﻣ ﻪــﻣﺎﻬﻟإ ﻞــﻤﻌﻟا ﻲﺣﻮﺘــﺴﻳ” :نيﺎــﻌﳌا ﻦــﻣ ﺎــﻬﻟ دوﺪــﺣ ﺐﺒــﺴﻳ ماــﻣ ،ﺔــﺌﺠﻬﺘﻟا ﻲــﻨﻨﻜيم ﻻو ﺔــﻳﺰﻴﻠﺠﻧﻹا ﺔــﻐﻠﻟا ﰲ ةءاﺮــﻘﻟا ﴪــﻋ ﻦــﻣ نيﺎــﻋأ ﺎــﻧﺄﻓ ةءاﺮﻗ وأ ﺺﺨــﺷ يأ مﺎــﻣأ ﺔﺌﺠﻬﺘﻟا وأ ﺔــﺑﺎﺘﻜﻟا ﻲــﻨﻣ ﺐــﻠﻄُﻳ ﺎــﻣﺪﻨﻋ ﺮــﺗﻮﺘﻟﺎﺑ رﻮﻌــﺸﻟا ﱄ ﱄﻮــﺻأ تﺎــﺠﻬﻟ ينــﺑ ﺔــﻴﺑﺮﻌﻟا ﰲوﺮــﺣ جﺰــتم ماــﻨﻴﺑ ،ﺮــﺧآ ﺺﺨــﺷ ﻞــﺒﻗ ﻦــﻣ ﱄماــﻋأ .“ءماﺘﻧﻻﺎﺑ رﻮﻌــﺸﻟاو ﻢــﻠﻗﺄﺘﻟا لوﺎــﺤﻳ ﻞﻔﻄﻟ ﺔــﻴﻟﺎﺜﳌا ﺔــﺑﺮﺠﺘﻟا ﺖــﺴﻴﻟ ﻲــﻫو ،ﺔــﻔﻠﺘﺨﳌا ﺪــﺴﺠﺗ” :يرــﺒﻌﺘﻟا ﺔــﻳﺮﺣ ﰲ ﺔــﺒﻏﺮﻟا ﺲــﻜﻌﺘﻟ ﻚــﻟذ زوﺎــﺠﺘﺗ ﻞــﻤﻌﻟا ةﺮــﻜﻓ ﻦــﻜﻟ ،دﻮــﻴﻘﻟاو ﺔــﻴﻫاﺮﻜﻟﺎﺑ ﺔــﺌﻴﻠﳌاو ﺔــﻴﻓﺮﺤﻟا ﺔــﻤﻠﻜﻟا مﻮــﻬﻔﻣ نﻮــﻠﻟا ةﺪــﻴﺣو ﻢــﺤﻔﻟا لﻼــﻇ لوﺎــﻨﺘﻳو .نيﺎــﻌﳌﺎﺑ ﺔــﻤﻌﻔﻣ تادﺮــﻔﻣ ﰲ نﻮــﻜﻟا ﻞــﺻﺄﺑ ًﺎــﻀﻳأ ﺎﻬﻬﻴﺒــﺸﺗ ﻦــﻜيم ﻲــﺘﻟاو ﻊــﻴﺿاﻮﻣ ﰲ ﻚﻴﻜــﺸﺘﻟﺎﺑ ﺎــﻨﻟ ﺢﻤــﺴُﻳ لم ﺚــﻴﺣ ،ﺔﻳدﻮﻌــﺴﻟا ﰲ لﺎــﻴﺟﻷا ﻮــنم ﺔــﺼﻗ ﻞــﻤﻌﻟا ﻦــﻣ نﺎﻜــﻓ ،ًﺎــﺗﺎﺘﺑ ﺔــﻋﻮﻨﻤﻣ ةﺪــﻳﺪﺟ ﻖــﺋﺎﻘﺣ فﺎــﺸﺘﻛﻻ ﺔــﻟوﺎﺤﻣ ﺔــﻳأ ﺖــﻧﺎﻛو ،ﺔــﻨﻴﻌﻣ .“ﺎــﻨﻟ ﺎــﻬﻨﻴﻘﻠﺗ ﻢــﺘﻳ ماــﻛ رﻮــﻣﻷا ﺬــﺧﺄﻧ نأ ﺎــﻨﻣ ﻊــﻗﻮﺘﳌا WORDS: REBECCA ANNE PROCTOR. IMAGES COUR TESY OF THE AR TIST AND A THR GALLER Y Muhannad Shono. The Silent Press. 2019. Installation with charcoal on newsprint. Site-specifi c installation The Silent Press 2019 ﻮﻧﻮﺷ ﺪﻨﻬﻣ .ﻒﺤﺼﻟا قرو ﲆﻋ ﻢﺤﻔﻟﺎﺑ ﺐﻴﻛﱰﻟا HBSA_002_080to085_ArtistMuhannad_11727386.indd 8404/07/2021 03:17:06 PM85 Harper’s Bazaar Saudi Summer 2021 The CULTURE سﺎﻨﻟا ﺢﺒﺻأ” ﺔﻗﺎﻃ نﻮﻠﻤﺤﻳ ﺔﻳﻮﻔﻋو ًﺎﺣﻮﻤﻃو ﻦﻣ ﺮﻴﺜﻜﻟا ﻊﻣ ﻲﺘﻟا ﺐﻫاﻮﻤﻟا ﻦﻣ نﻵا ﺮﻫدﺰﺗ .“ﻲﻟﻮﺣ ﻮﻧﻮﺷ ﺪﻨﻬﻣ “ PE O PL E S E E M E NE R G E T I C A ND F U L L O F D R E A M S , T H E R E I S A N I N NO C E NC E T O T H IN GS MIX E D WI T H S O MU C H T A LEN T N O W F L O U R I S H I N G A L L A R O U N D M E ” M u h a n n a d S h o no pigment-on-paper scrolls, resembling an old printing press. Yet instead of the words that we would expect on each of the scrolls, there are Muhannad’s undefi ned forms in ink and charcoal professing a language all their own. The installation constitutes a silent call to free the word from the dominance of text. When it is freed from its confi nes, only then it can be truly experienced. But the work goes further: It can also be related to a desire for freedom of expression. “This is the concept of the literal word, the unimagined word, the cruel word, the word that is full of hate and restriction – these meanings are embodied in these solid charcoal pigments – also that can be likened to the origin of the universe, they are like little molecules of meaning,” says Muhannad. “They also tackle this issue of growing up in Saudi because we were not allowed to question certain themes or subjects, so the practice of ‘striving for’ new truths or ‘ijtihad’, was fundamentally forbidden, and we were expected to follow the word as it was literally taught to us.” The installation also represents the changes in Saudi Arabia today. “It’s about taking all of these doctrines, dogmas and old belief systems and grinding them down to this infi nite possibility of pigments, this grounded-down dust.” For Muhannad and curator of the exhibition Rahul Gudipudi, the pigments were not meaningless but rather “limitless in their meaning.” “We are going in an exciting direction now in Saudi as the country opens up and diversifi es,” he says. This change couldn’t be better professed than through Muhannad’s massive installation Streams, Dreams and Flow States (2019) which was exhibited in Naphtha, curated by Moath Alofi , at Khuzam Palace in Jeddah. In it the artist places dozens of old empty PVC piping in a chained-off room. They circulate from one end of the room to the next, commentating on the Kingdom’s reliance on oil. As the country strives to diversify its economy away from its dependence on oil, Muhannad’s installation also had another meaning: We can imagine that the pipes now carry within them a new and vital source for the nation. Perhaps it is creativity or perhaps, it is simply hope. muhannadshono.com ﺔﻳدﻮﻌــﺴﻟا ﺔﻴﺑﺮﻌﻟا ﺔــﻜﻠﻤﳌا ﺎﻫﺪﻬــﺸﺗ ﻲــﺘﻟا تايرــﻴﻐﺘﻟا ﻞــﻤﻌﻟا ﻞــﺜيم ماــﻛ ﻻ لماﻮــﻋ ﰲ ﺎــﻬﻋﺎﻴﺿو ﺔــﻴﻟﺎﺒﻟا تاﺪــﻘﺘﻌﳌا ﺔــﺷﺎﺸﻫ ﻞــﻤﻌﻟا ﺲــﻜﻌﻳ” .مﻮــﻴﻟا ينــﻣأ ،يدﻮــﺒﻳدﻮﺟ لﻮــﻫارو ﺪــﻨﻬﳌ ﺔﺒــﺴﻨﻟﺎﺑو .“تﻻماــﺘﺣﻻا ﻦــﻣ ﺔــﻴﻫﺎﻨﺘﻣ مﺎﻗ ﺚــﻴﺣ ،ﺎــﻬﻟ دوﺪــﺣ ﻻ نﺎــﻌﻣ ﺔــﻐﺒﺻﻷا لﻼــﻇو طﻮــﻄﺧ ﺖــﻣﺪﻗ ،ضﺮــﻌﳌا ﻞﻌﻔﺑ ﺔــﻐﺒﺻﻷا ﻚﻳﺮﺤﺘﺑ ،ﺔــﺿوﺮﻌﳌا ىﺮــﺧﻷا لماــﻋﻷا ﻊــﻣ ﻞــﻌﻓ ماــﻛ ،ﻮﻧﻮــﺷ ﻪﺠﺘﻧ” :لﻮــﻘﻳ و ،ةﺪــﻳﺪﺠﻟا ﺔــﻠﻤﺘﺤﳌا نيﺎــﻌﳌا ﲆــﻋ ءﻮــﻀﻟا ﻂﻴﻠــﺴﺘﻟ زاﺰــﺘﻫﻻا ﻦــﻣ ﺪــﻨﻬﻣ ﻪــﻨﻋ ﱪــﻋ ﺎــﻣ اﺬــﻫ ،“ﺔــﻜﻠﻤﳌا حﺎــﺘﻔﻧا ﻊــﻣ ةﺪــﻋاو قﺎــﻓآ ﻮــﺤﻧ يﺬﻟاو ،(ﺔــﻘﻓﺪﺘﻣ تﻻﺎــﺣو مﻼــﺣأو تارﺎــﺴﻣ) ناﻮــﻨﻌﺑ ﻢــﺨﻀﻟا ﻪــﻠﻤﻋ لﻼــﺧ مﺎﻋ ةﺪــﺠﺑ ماﺰــﺧ ﴫﻗ ﰲ ﰲﻮــﻌﻟا ذﺎــﻌﻣ ﺔــﻳﺎﻋﺮﺑ ﻪــَﺜﻔﻧ ضﺮــﻌﻣ ﰲ ﻪــﺿﺮﻋ ﻢــﺗ ﺔــﻏرﺎﻔﻟا ﺔــيمﺪﻘﻟا ﺔﻴﻜﻴﺘــﺳﻼﺒﻟا ﺐــﻴﺑﺎﻧﻷا تاﴩــﻋ نﺎــﻨﻔﻟا ﻊــﻀﻳ ﻪــﻴﻓو ،2019 ﲆــﻋ ءﻮــﻀﻟا ﻂﻴﻠــﺴﺘﻟ ،ﺔــﻘﻠﻐﻣ ﺔــﻓﺮﻏ ﺎــﻳاوز ينــﺑ ىوﺪــﺟ نود كﺮــﺤﺘﺗ ﻲــﺘﻟا ﻖــﻴﻘﺤﺘﻟ ةﺪــﻫﺎﺟ ﺔــﻜﻠﻤﳌا ﻰﻌــﺴﺗ ماــﻨﻴﺑو .ﻂــﻔﻨﻟا ﲆــﻋ ﺔﻳدﻮﻌــﺴﻟا دماــﺘﻋا ،ﺮــﺧآ ﻰــﻨﻌﻣ ﺪــﻨﻬﻣ ﻞــﻤﻌﻟ نﺎﻛ ،ﻂــﻔﻨﻟا ﻦــﻋ ًاﺪــﻴﻌﺑ يدﺎــﺼﺘﻗﻻا عﻮــﻨﺘﻟا رﺎــﻫدزﻻ يﻮــﻴﺣو ﺪــﻳﺪﺟ رﺪــﺼﻤﻛ ﺐــﻴﺑﺎﻧﻷا ىﻮــﺘﺤﻣ ﺔــﻳؤر ﺎــﻨﻨﻜيم ﺚــﻴﺣ .ﻖــﻓﻷا ﰲ حﻮــﻠﻳ ﻞــﻣأ ﺺــﻴﺼﺑ وأ عاﺪــﺑإ دﺮــﺠﻣ اﺬــﻫ نﻮــﻜﻳ ﺎــبمر ،ﺔــﻜﻠﻤﳌا muhannadshono.com From top: Muhannad Shono. Photography by Sueraya Shaheen; A detail shot of The Silent Press; Crushed charcoal used for Muhannad’s work ﺔﻄﻘﻟ .ﲔﻫﺎﺷ ﺎﻳﺮﺛ ﺮﻳﻮﺼﺗ .ﻮﻧﻮﺷ ﺪﻨﻬﻣ :ﲆﻋﻷا ﻦﻣ نﻮﺤﻄﻣ ﻢﺤﻓ ؛The Silent Press ﻞﻤﻌﻟ ﺔﻴﻠﻴﺼﻔﺗ ﺪﻨﻬﻣ ﻞﻤﻌﻟ مﺪﺨﺘﺴﻳ HBSA_002_080to085_ArtistMuhannad_11727386.indd 8504/07/2021 03:17:31 PM86 Harper’s Bazaar Saudi Summer 2021 ﺔﻓﺎﻘﺜﻟا ﺪﻤﺣأ كﻼﻣ ﻦﻣ MA ﺔﻣﻼﻋ ﻦﻣ 2021 ﻒﻴﺻ ﺔﻋﻮﻤﺠﻣ MA by Malak Ahmed’s Aesthetic collection, S/S21 ﺔﻓﺎﻘﺜﻟا HBSA_002_086to089_marriamMossalli_11727530.indd 8604/07/2021 03:24:49 PM87 Harper’s Bazaar Saudi Summer 2021 ةﺮﻈﻧ ةدﺪﺠﺘﻣ ﻞﺒﻗ تارﺎــﻬﳌا ﺪــﻬﻌﻣ ﺪﻬــﺷ ،ًﺎــﻣﺎﻋ 12 ﱃوﻷا ﺔــﻌﻓﺪﻟا ﺞــﻳﺮﺨﺗ ضﺎــﻳﺮﻟا ﰲ نﻮــﻨﻔﻟاو مﻮــﻴﻟا ﺢــﺒﺼﻴﻟ ،ﺔــﻠﻫﺬﳌا ﺔﻴﺋﺎــﺴﻨﻟا ﺐــﻫاﻮﳌا ﻦــﻣ تارﺎــﻬﻣ ﻞــﻘﺻو ﺐــﻳرﺪﺘﻟ ﺔــﻴﻟﺎﺜﳌا ﻦــﻛﺎﻣﻷا ﺪــﺣأ ﻪــﻧﻮﻛ .ﺔــﺌﻳﺮﺟ ﺔــﻴﻋاﺪﺑإ ﺔــﻳؤﺮﺑ ﻦــﻌّﺘﻤﺘﻳ تياﻮــﻠﻟا ﺔــﻜﻠﻤﳌا تاﺪﻴــﺳ ،ﺔــﻴﻠﺤﳌا ﻪــﺘﻤﺼﺑ ﲆــﻋ ظﺎــﻔﺤﻟا ﰲ ﻪــﺴﻴﺳﺄﺗ ﺬــﻨﻣ ﺪــﻬﻌﳌا ﺢــﺠﻧو ﺔــﻴﳌﺎﻌﻟا تﺎــﻴيمدﺎﻛﻷا ىﱪــﻛ ﲆــﻋ ﺐــﻌﺼﻳ ئيﺎﻨﺜﺘــﺳا زﺎــﺠﻧإ ﻮــﻫو .ﻪــﻘﻴﻘﺤﺗ :نﻮــﻨﻔﻟاو تارﺎــﻬﳌا ﺪــﻬﻌﻣ ىﺪــﻟ ﺔﻘﺑﺎــﺴﻟا ﺔــﺑرﺪﳌا ،مماــﻫﺎﺑ ﺪــﻨﻫ لﻮــﻘﺗو ﺔــﻃﺎﻴﺨﻟاو ّﺺــﻘﻟا ﺐﻴﻟﺎــﺳأ ﻢــﻴﻠﻌﺗ ﰲ ﺔــﺼﺼﺨﺘﻣ ﺔــﻴيمدﺎﻛأ لوأ ﺪــﻬﻌﳌا ﻞّﻜــﺷ» ﺰــﻴﻛﱰﻟا ﻢﻫﺎــﺳو .ءﺎــﻳزﻷا ﻢــﻴﻤﺼﺗ ﰲ سﻮــﻳرﻮﻟﺎﻜﺒﻟا ﺔــﺟرد جﺎــﻬﻨﻣ ﻦــﻣ ءﺰــﺠﻛ ﺔﻴﻋاﺪﺑإ تماــﺼﺑ ﻢــﻳﺪﻘﺗ ﻦــﻣ تماــﻤﺼﳌا ينــﻜتم ﱃإ ﺔــﻴﻨﻔﻟا ﺐــﻧاﻮﺠﻟا هﺬــﻫ ﲆــﻋ .«ﺔــﺻﺎﺨﻟا ّﻦــﻬﺘﻳؤر ﻦــﻋ قﺪــﺼﺑ ّﱪــﻌﺗ مﺎــﻌﻟ ﻪــﺗرود ﰲ ﺪــﻬﻌﳌا م ّﺪــﻗ ،ﱃوﻷا ﺔــﻌﻓﺪﻟا ﺞــﻳﺮﺨﺗ ﻦــﻣ ينــﻣﺎﻋ روﺮـ ـﻣ ﺪــﻌﺑو ﺔﻤﻤﺼﳌا ﺎــﻬﻨﻣ زﺮــﺑ ،ﺔــﻴﳌﺎﻌﻟا ﺔــﺿﻮﳌا ﺪﻬــﺸﻣ ءاﺮــﺛإ ﰲ ﺖﻤﻫﺎــﺳ ﺔــﻌﺋار ءماــﺳأ 2009 Man ﺔــﻧوﺪﳌ ﺔــﻴﻜﻳﺮﻣﻷا ﺔــﺴ ﱢﺳﺆﳌا بﺎــﺠﻋإ ﺎــﻬﺗﺎﻋاﺪﺑإ ﺖــﻟﺎﻧ ﻲــﺘﻟا ﻞــﻬﻨﻜﻟا ﻢــﻳر نﺎــﺘﻠﻟا ،ﻲــﻨﻬﺠﻟا ﺎــﻨﻳد ةيرــﻣﻷا ﺔــﻴﻠﺤﳌا ﺔــﺿﻮﳌا ﺔــﻧﻮﻘﻳأو ﻦــﻳﺪﻴﻣ ارﺪــﻨﻴﻟ Repeller .كرﻮــﻳﻮﻴﻧ ﰲ ﺔــﺿﻮﳌا عﻮﺒــﺳأ لﻼــﺧ ﻞــﻬﻨﻜﻟا ﻢــﻴﻤﺼﺗ ﻦــﻣ ﺔــﻌﺋار تﻻﻼــﻃﺈﺑ ﺎــﺘﻘﻟﺄﺗ ﻰــﺘﺣ ،ﺰــﻴﻤﳌا ﺎــﻫرﻮﻀﺣ ﲆــﻋ ﺔﻳدﻮﻌــﺴﻟا ﺔــﻤﻤﺼﳌا ﺖــﻈﻓﺎﺣ ،ينــﺤﻟا ﻚــﻟذ ﺬــﻨﻣو ًاﺪــﻘﻋ برﺎــﻘﻳ ﺎــبم ﻚــﻟذ ﺪــﻌﺑ ﻲــﺘﺑﻮﻄﺧ ﻞــﻔﺣ ﰲ ﺎــﻬﻤﻴﻣﺎﺼﺗ ﺪــﺣأ ﺖــﻳﺪﺗرا ﻲــﻨﻧأ ﻦــﻣ ةﺪــﻳﺪﺟ ﺦــﺴﻧ ﻢــﻳﺪﻘﺗ ﱃإ ﻦــﻫاﺮﻟا ﺖــﻗﻮﻟا ﰲ ﻞــﻬﻨﻜﻟا ﻰﻌــﺴﺗ .نﺎــﻣﺰﻟا ﻦــﻣ تﺎــﺜﺣﺎﺒﻟا تﺎﺑﺎــﺸﻟاو تاﺮــﺛﺆﳌا تاﺪﻴــﺴﻟا تﻻﻼــﻃﺈﺑ ءﺎــﻘﺗرﻼﻟ ﺔﻴﻜﻴــﺳﻼﻜﻟا ﺎــﻬﻤﻴﻣﺎﺼﺗ .ﺔــﻤﻤﺼﳌا عاﺪــﺑإ ﻦــﻋ ّﱪــﻌﺗ ءﺎــﻳزأ ﻦــﻋ ﻢــﻴﻫاﺮﺑا ءﺎــﻔﻴﻫ لﺎــﺜﻣأ ﺔــﺿﻮﳌا لمﺎــﻋ ﱃإ ﺔــﻌﺋار ﺐــﻫاﻮﻣ ﻢــﻳﺪﻘﺗ ﺪــﻬﻌﳌا ﻞــﺻاو .دﻮﻌــﺳ لآ ﺪــﻬﻓ ﺖــﻨﺑ ءﺎــﻔﻴﻫ ةيرــﻣﻷﺎﺑ ﺔــﺻﺎﺨﻟا ﺔــﻳرﺎﺠﺘﻟا ﺔــﻣﻼﻌﻟا ،ﺪــﻬﻓ ءﺎــﻔﻴﻫو ﻢــﺳا ﻦــﻬﻴﻠﻋ ﻖــﻠﻃأ نأ ﺐــﺣأ ﻦــﻣ وأ تﺎــﻳﺪﺠﻨﻟا تماــﻤﺼﳌا ﻦــﻣ ﻞــﻴﺠﻟا اﺬــﻫ ﺪــﻴﻬتم ﰲ ﻦﻤﻫﺎــﺳ - Antwerp Six ﺔــﻋﻮﻤﺠبم ًﺎــﻨﻤﻴﺗ - “ﺖــﺴﻟا تﺎــﻳﺪﺠﻨﻟا” .ﻦــﻫﺪﻌﺑ ينــﺗأ ﻦــﻣ مﺎــﻣأ ﻖــﻳﺮﻄﻟا تﺎﻣﻼﻌﻟا ﻞــﺋاوأ ﻦــﻣ ّﺪــﻌُﺗ ﻲــﺘﻟا ﻲــﺤﺟاﺮﻟا ﻞﻋﺎــﺸﻣ ﺔــﻋﻮﻤﺠﳌا ّﻢــﻀﺗو ﺔــﻴﺿﺎﻳﺮﻟا ﺔــﺿﻮﳌا تﺎــﻣﻼﻋ زﺮــﺑأ ﻊــﻣ ﺎــﻬﻧوﺎﻌﺗ ﰲ ﺔﻳدﻮﻌــﺴﻟا ﺔــﻳرﺎﺠﺘﻟا ﺎــﻬﺘﻧﺎﻜﻣ ﺖــﻘﻘﺣ ﻲــﺘﻟا ﺦﻴــﺸﻟا لآ ةرﻮــﻧ ﱃإ ﺔــﻓﺎﺿإ ،Nike ﻞــﺜﻣ ﺔــﻤﻤﺼﻤﻠﻟ MOUSHI ﺔــﻣﻼﻋو ،ﺔــﺿﻮﳌا لﺎــﺠﻣ ﰲ ةﺪــﺋاﺮﻟا ﻢــﻳﺪﻘﺗ ﰲ ةﺪــﺋاﺮﻟا تﺎــﻬﺟﻮﻟا ىﺪــﺣإ ،سرﺎــﻔﻟا ﻞﻋﺎــﺸﻣ ًﺔــﻴﻟﺎﺜﻣ ﺎــﻬﺗﺎﻋاﺪﺑإ ّﺪــﻌُﺗ ﺚــﻴﺣ ،ﺔــﺛﻮﻧﻷا ﺔــﻘﺋﺎﻓ ينﺗﺎــﺴﻓ يﺬــﻟا ﺖــﻗﻮﻟا اﺬــﻫ ﰲ ًﺔــﺻﺎﺧ ﺔــﻜﻠﻤﳌا تاﺪﻴــﺴﻟ ﰲ ةأﺮــﳌا رود ينــﻜﻤﺘﻟ ًﺎــﺘﻓﻻ ًماــﻋد ﺪﻬــﺸﻳ .يدﻮﻌــﺴﻟا ﻊــﻤﺘﺠﳌا Rewind… 12 years. A group of young, ambitious women have just become the fi rst graduates of what would become known as Saudi’s fashion design factory of unapologetic, bold talent. The Arts and Skills Institute in Riyadh, in its humble beginnings, did something that even the best international schools have a hard time manifesting: it retained its local point of view. “Arts and Skills was the first institution that taught pattern cutting and sewing as part of a bachelor’s degree in fashion design,” reveals former instructor, Hind Bahammam. “By focusing on the technical aspects of fashion design, it allowed the designers to communicate an unbiased narrative that was truly their own.” Fast forward two years and another 2009 graduate, designer Reem Alkanhal, is being worn by the likes of Man Repeller and local style icon, Princess Deena Aljuhani at New York Fashion Week. Almost a decade later, and I’m wearing Reem Alkanhal for my Khatooba. Today, Reem is having a literal revival of her classics that are coveted by both empowered women and young teenagers wanting to dress as cool as its stunning founder. With names like Haifa Ibrahim and Haifa Fahad – a brand A NEW NARRATIVE Contributing Fashion Editor Marriam Mossalli introduces the talent that set the tone for style in Saudi, drawing parallels with the Antwerp Six ءﻮﻀﻟا ﻂﻠﺴﺗ ﻲﻠﺼﻣ ﻢﻳﺮﻣ ﺮﻳﺮﺤﺘﻟا ةرﺎﺸﺘﺴﻣ ﻰﻠﻋ ﻦﻠﻤﻌﻳ ﻲﺗاﻮﻠﻟا تﺎﻤﻤﺼﻤﻟا زﺮﺑأ ﻰﻠﻋ ﺪﻬﺸﻣ ﻲﻓ ﻢﻬﺗﻠﺎﻴﺜﻣ مﺎﻣأ ﻖﻳﺮﻄﻟا ﺪﻴﻬﻤﺗ يدﻮﻌﺴﻟا ءﺎﻳزﻟﺄا HBSA_002_086to089_marriamMossalli_11727530.indd 8704/07/2021 03:25:07 PM88 Harper’s Bazaar Saudi Summer 2021 by Princess Haifa bint Fahad Alsaud, that to this day is the go-to for formal outerwear, also known as the decadent abaya, these graduates become comparable to the Antwerp Six. Or, in our case, the Najdi Six. Mashael Alrajhi’s talent made her one of the fi rst Saudi labels to collaborate with an international sportswear brand, namely Nike. Nora Al Shaikh made a name with her style of deconstructed fashion. Mashael al Faris’ MOUSHI brand was one of the fi rst, and today is still a favourite with its ultra- feminine gowns that empower rather than constrict the wearer – a trend that many young Saudi females can appreciate with their much more active roles in Saudi society. Ten years on from that fi rst graduating class, we have a new wave of young talent; some self-taught, others educated abroad or in one of the many options now available in the Kingdom. Enter DAZLUQ by Salma Zahran, a graduate of Miami International University of Art & Design. Her brand aims to “set the tone for fashion in the region.” Laith by Dar Al-Hekma University graduate and conceptual designer, Jalila Nayil, is luxury slow fashion in its purest form. Having showcased at NYFW and recently opened her fi rst solo boutique, Laith is a minimalistic brand redefi ning how locals interpret luxury fashion. Not to mention Future Institute, Jeddah’s Arts and Skills counterpart. A soft-spoken talent with bold design gets on the radar of every young fashionista. Her name is Malak Ahmed and her designs are innovative in their construction, and for those of us who remember the excitement of the Najdi Six, they incite a welcome nostalgia. ART’- by KAF BY KAF, the brainchild of Kawthar Alhoraish, represents Saudi’s newest wave of contemporary brands. The aesthetic mirrors one that is quickly becoming synonymous with homegrown talent, and that is one of innovation embedded in Saudi heritage. KAF BY KAF creates structured fashion decorated with unique patterns that are inspired by her KSA homeland. The one thing all these new designers have in common is a readiness to own their narrative through thoughtful design, a concept that was no doubt pioneered by the Najdi Six. ﻊﻨﺻ ﻰﻟإ فﺪﻬﻳ يﺬﻟا يدﺎﻳﺮﻟا مﻮﻬﻔﻤﻟا ﻮﻫ تﺎﻤﻤﺼﻤﻟا ءﻻﺆﻫ ﺰﻴﻤﻳ ﺎﻣ” “ﻦﻬﻨﻣ ّﻞﻜﻟ ةد ّﺮﻔﺘﻤﻟا ﺔﻳؤﺮﻟا رﻮﺼﻳ ﻞﻘﺘﺴﻣ ﻲﻋاﺪﺑإ ﺮﻴﺛﺄﺗ “ T H E O N E T H I N G A L L T H E S E N E W D E S I G N E R S H A V E I N C O M M O N I S A R E A D I N E S S T O O W N T H E I R N A R R AT I V E T H RO U G H T H O U G H T F U L D E S I G N ; A C O N C E P T T H AT W A S N O D O U B T P I O N E E R E D B Y T H E N A J D I S I X ” ﺔﻣﻼﻋ ﻢﻴﻣﺎﺼﺗ ﻦﻣ :رﺎﺴﻴﻟا ﱃإ و ﲆﻋﻷا 2019 ناﺮﻫز ﻰﻤﻠﺳ ﻦﻣ DAZL UQ Above and left: DAZLUQ by Salma Zahran’s Summer Plan collection, 2019 IMAGES COUR TESY OF RESPECTIVE BRANDS AND YELSSINGS PHOTOGRAPHY HBSA_002_086to089_marriamMossalli_11727530.indd 8804/07/2021 03:25:20 PM89 Harper’s Bazaar Saudi Summer 2021 ءﺎــﻳزﻷا ﺪﻬــﺸﻣ ﺢــﺒﺻأ ،ﱃوﻷا ﺔــﻌﻓﺪﻟا ﺞــﻳﺮﺨﺗ ﻦــﻣ تاﻮﻨــﺳ ﴩــﻋ روﺮــﻣ ﺪــﻌﺑو جرﺎــﺨﻟا ﰲ ﻢــّﻠﻌﺗ ﺮــﺧﻵاو ًﺎــﻴﺗاذ ًماــﻴﻠﻌﺗ ﻰــﻘﻠﺗ ﺎــﻬﻀﻌﺑ ،ﺔﺑﺎــﺸﻟا ﺐــﻫاﻮﳌﺎﺑ ًاﺮــﺧاز ﲇــﺤﳌا ﺔــﻣﻼﻋ ﰲ هﺪــﺠﻧ ﺎــﻣ اﺬــﻫو .ﺔــﻜﻠﻤﳌا ﻞــﺧاد ةﴩــﺘﻨﳌا ﺔــﻴﻠﺤﳌا تﺎــﻴيمدﺎﻛﻷا ﻦــﻤﺿ وأ نﻮــﻨﻔﻠﻟ ﺔــﻴﳌﺎﻌﻟا ﻲــﻣﺎﻴﻣ ﺔــﻌﻣﺎﺟ ﺔــﺠﻳﺮﺧ ،ناﺮــﻫز ﻰﻤﻠــﺳ ﺔــﻤﻤﺼﻤﻠﻟ DAZLUQ .ﺔــﻘﻄﻨﳌا ﰲ ءﺎــﻳزﻷا يرــﻳﺎﻌﻣ ﻢــﺳر ﱃإ فﺪــﻬﺗ ﻲــﺘﻟاو ،ﻢــﻴﻤﺼﺘﻟاو راد ﺔــﻌﻣﺎﺟ ﻦــﻣ ﺖــﺟﺮﺨﺗ ﻲــﺘﻟا ﻞــﻳﺎﻧ ﺔــﻠﻴﻠﺟ ﺎﻬﺘــﺴﺳﺆﳌ Laith ﺔــﻣﻼﻋ مﺪــﻘﺗ ماــﻨﻴﺑ ﺔــﻤﻤﺼﳌا ﺖﻛرﺎــﺷ ذإ ،ﺔــﺳورﺪﻣ ﺔــﻳﴫﺣ تاراﺪــﺻإ ﻦــﻤﺿ ًةﺮــﺧﺎﻓ ًءﺎــﻳزأ ﺔــﻤﻜﺤﻟا .Laith ناﻮــﻨﻌﺑ ﺎــﻬﻟ ﻞﻘﺘــﺴﻣ ﺮــﺠﺘﻣ لوأ ﺖــﺤﺘﺘﻓاو كرﻮــﻳﻮﻴﻧ ﰲ ﺔــﺿﻮﳌا عﻮﺒــﺳأ ﰲ ﻲــﻫﺎﻀﻳ يﺬــﻟا ﻞﺒﻘﺘــﺴﳌا ﺪــﻬﻌﻣ ﺔــﺠﻳﺮﺧ ،ﺪــﻤﺣأ كﻼــﻣ م ّﺪــﻘﺗ ﺎــﻬﺘﻬﺟ ﻦــﻣو ﺔــﻴﻗاﺮﻟا ﺐــﻫاﻮﻤﻠﻟ ﻪﺑﺎﻄﻘﺘــﺳا ﺚــﻴﺣ ﻦــﻣ ةﺪــﺟ ﰲ تارﺎــﻬﳌاو نﻮــﻨﻔﻟا ﺪــﻬﻌﻣ رﻮﻌــﺸﻟا زّﺰــﻌﺗ ،ةﺮــﻜﺘﺒﻣ تﺎــﻋاﺪﺑإ ،ﺔــﺿﻮﳌا تﺎﻘــﺷﺎﻌﻟ ﺔــﺌﻳﺮﺠﻟا رﺎﻜــﻓﻷاو .ﺔــﻟﺎﺻﻷا ﱃإ ينــﻨﺤﻟاو سماــﺤﻟﺎﺑ ثﺪــﺣأ بيﺎــﺒﺤﻟا ﺮــﺛﻮﻛ ﺔــﻤﻤﺼﻤﻠﻟ KAF BY KAF ﺔــﻣﻼﻋ ﺲــﻜﻌﺗ ماــﻨﻴﺑ ﺔــﺒﻫﻮﳌا ﻦــﻋ ّﱪــﻌﺗ ﺔــﻴﻟماﺟ تﺎــﻄﻘﻟ رّﻮــﺼﺗ ﺚــﻴﺣ ،ﺔــﻳﴫﻌﻟا تﺎــﻬﺟﻮﺘﻟا ﺔــﻨﻳﺰﻣ ءﺎــﻳزأ ﺔــﻣﻼﻌﻟا م ّﺪــﻘﺗو .ﻞــﻴﺻﻷا يدﻮﻌــﺴﻟا ثاﱰــﻟاو ﺔــﻴﻠﺤﳌا .ﺔــﻜﻠﻤﳌا ﻦــﻣ ﺎــﻫﴏﺎﻨﻋ ﻲﺣﻮﺘــﺴﺗ ةﺪــﻳﺮﻓ جذماــﻨﺑ يﺬــﻟا يدﺎــﻳﺮﻟا مﻮــﻬﻔﳌا ﻮــﻫ تماــﻤﺼﳌا ءﻻﺆــﻫ ﺰــﻴيم ﺎــﻣ ﺔــﻳؤﺮﻟا رﻮــﺼﻳ ﻞﻘﺘــﺴﻣ ﻲــﻋاﺪﺑإ يرــﺛﺄﺗ ﻊــﻨﺻ ﱃإ فﺪــﻬﻳ ﻪــﺑ ﺖﻤــﺴﺗا ﺎــﻣ ﻮــﻫو ،ﺔــﻤﻤﺼﻣ ﻞﻜــﻟ ةدّﺮــﻔﺘﳌا .ﻖﺑﺎــﺴﻟا ﰲ “ﺖــﺴﻟا تﺎــﻳﺪﺠﻨﻟا” The CULTURE Clockwise from top left: DAZLUQ by Salma Zahran Suit-Up collection, 2021; Moushi by Mashael al Faris. Courtesy of mahalatkom.com; DAZLUQ by Salma Zahran Suit-Up collection, 2021 ﻦﻣ .2021 ناﺮﻫز ﻰﻤﻠﺳ ﻦﻣ DAZL UQ ﺔﻣﻼﻋ ﻢﻴﻣﺎﺼﺗ ﻦﻣ :ﺔﻋﺎﺴﻟا برﺎﻘﻋ هﺎﲡﺎﺑ ﻢﻴﻣﺎﺼﺗ ﻦﻣ .mahala tkom.com ﻊﻗﻮﻣ ﻦﻣ سرﺎﻔﻟا ﻞﻋﺎﺸﻣ ﻦﻣ Moushi ﺔﻣﻼﻋ 2021 ناﺮﻫز ﻰﻤﻠﺳ ﻦﻣ DAZL UQ ﺔﻣﻼﻋ HBSA_002_086to089_marriamMossalli_11727530.indd 8904/07/2021 03:25:33 PMNext >