< PreviousThe Grand Lady Kalla can transform from a scintillating sautoir into a dazzling bracelet in mere moments HBA-194_OCT-24_066-069_Vacheron_13406062_13406234.indd 6830/09/2024 21:0969 HarpersBazaarArabia.com October 2024 Above: The watch dial is concealed behind a GIA-emerald-cut diamond weighing over two carats. Below: A selection of heritage Grand Lady Kalla timepieces The JEWELLERY IMAGES: SUPPLIED “W O R K I N G W I TH TH E S E MA T E R I AL S RE Q U I R E D EX T R EM E P R EC IS I O N” S teering Vacheron Constantin’s timepieces from the conceptual stage through to their on-the-wrist debut, Sandrine has forensic involvement in bringing each design to life; every nitty-gritty detail is merely another hurdle for her and the team of master craftsmen to leap. “Balancing the elegance of high jewellery with practical timekeeping was achieved by reducing the size of the prongs on the dial, ensuring a clear view of the time, without compromising on the piece’s aesthetic,” she enthuses, enraptured by every step of the journey. “Th e emerald-cut diamonds, combined with slimmed-down contemporary proportions, maintain the balance between functionality and luxurious design,” she explains. Alongside its remarkable 45 carats of diamonds, Akoya pearls and jet black onyx beads are employed to add texture, depth and dimension to the design. “Working with these materials required extreme precision,” says Sandrine, “as their delicate nature posed a challenge when integrating them into the watch’s structure and pendant.” Vacheron Constantin is certainly no stranger to pendant watches. Th e earliest pocket watch was made by Jean-Marc Vacheron in 1755, and pendant watches remained the dominant mode of time-telling until much later, with the fi rst lady’s wristwatch not produced until 1889. Th e maison’s early pocket watch designs for women were simply sublime; adorned with elegant engraving, enamel and gemstones, they were the precursors to the stylish sautoirs with tonneau-shaped silhouettes that emerged in the Art Deco era – the very pieces that inspired today’s Grand Lady Kalla. “Th e design focused on achieving harmony between Art Deco infl uences and contemporary tastes,” elaborates Sandrine, referencing the watch’s Art Deco geometry and bold lines, executed with contemporary precision. Th e Grand Lady Kalla is far from the maison’s fi rst Kalla timepiece. Now counting 45 designs within the Kalla family, its lineage includes some of the world’s most sumptuous watches, including most notably the 1979 Kallista. Featuring 118 emerald-cut diamonds totaling 130 carats, the Kallista _ Greek for ‘most beautiful’ – fl exed the maison’s muscles as the ultimate high jewellery watchmaking maison. Th en in 2001, the Lady Kalla Necklace Watch won the ‘Aiguille d’Or’ – the very fi rst Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève – recognised for its astonishing blend of horology and high jewellery, sculpted from a single block of white gold. How then, does Vacheron Constantin’s team of haute horologists feel once they have completed a masterpiece such as the Grand Lady Kalla – is it straight onto the next model in its illustrious legacy? “Each timepiece created at Vacheron Constantin holds a special place in our hearts. Th e Grand Lady Kalla, in particular, carries with it a sense of accomplishment and pride. While we do move on to the next creation, there is always a sense of wonder about where each watch will end up and the story it will tell,” says Sandrine. “We imagine it adorning the wrist of a woman who embodies grace and sophistication, someone who appreciates not only the beauty of the piece but also its intricate craftsmanship. Th ere is always a hope that these watches will be cherished as heirlooms, passed down through generations, each with a story to tell.” HBA-194_OCT-24_066-069_Vacheron_13406062_13406234.indd 6930/09/2024 21:0970 HarpersBazaarArabia.com October 2024 Chic, petite and dressed in diamonds, CARTIER’s little black watch makes the perfect partner to this season’s revival of Le Smoking Words by CHARLIE BOYD ves Saint Laurent said that for a woman, ‘Le Smoking’ is an “indispensable garment with which she fi nds herself continually in fashion, because it is about style, not fashion. Fashions come and go, but style is forever.” Never has an adage about clothes spoken so directly to the world of horology – fi ne watches are designed to last a lifetime, and then some. Th e iconic French designer launched Le Smoking on the world stage in 1966, part of his Pop Art collection, and it soon became the cool girl’s emblem for after-dark dressing – Bianca Jagger, Lauren Bacall and Lou Lou de la Falaise were some of its greatest champions. A black tuxedo with a sleek collar and nipped-in waist became the edgier alter-ego of an evening gown, and it has remained ever thus – the AW24 runways were awash with contemporary takes on this legendary silhouette. Its spirit animal, in more ways than one, is Cartier’s Animal Jewellery Watch. Th is timepiece is a poster girl for the concept we like to call the LBW – the little black watch – which ticks the same stylistic boxes as the tuxedo; monochrome colour palette, understatedly luxe, and endlessly chic. Th e perfect companion to Tom Ford’s velvet dinner jacket, or Loewe’s black tail-coat, this is a timepiece that feels glamorous, but not overtly feminine. Rebellion comes in the form of hand-crafted black lacquer stripes and spiked spinels, whipped into an endless coil of mane and tail. Th e watch hints at the many beasts that reside within the maison’s motif menagerie, a signature theme of the house ever since a panther fi rst pounced upon a Cartier watch in 1914. Is it a crocodile? A zebra? A tiger? Who knows. Who cares? Unashamedly opulent, the watch fl aunts almost 1.5 carats of diamonds, which whirl around its inky, lozenge- shaped dial. It isn’t, however, just its needle-sharp spikes that echo the sleek silhouette of Le Smoking; viewed from the side, multiple levels add shape and volume, cinching in and unfurling out. Th e devil is in the detail, and this is how you should approach your entire ensemble. Th e choice of two straps – jet black calfskin or crocodile – will let you complement the textures in your tuxedo look; choose the crocodile to speak to Chanel’s mini briefcase, while the calfskin will match the mirrored gleam of Givenchy’s Show patent pumps. Turn to labels that focus on cut, architecture, and form – we’re looking at you, Alaïa – as these are the brands that refl ect the precision of a fi ne jewellery timepiece. Keep other jewellery to a minimum to make maximum impact – consider adding a twinkle to fi ngers with Van Cleef & Arpel’s onyx Perlée Couleurs ring, or illuminate the visage with Bottega Veneta’s fl uid gold earrings. Above all else, ensure each piece feels classic yet still boasts a little pizazz. For all-out maximalists, the watch comes in two other iterations that showcase a stream of zingy green tsavorites or a slew of hot pink rubies – perfect for those who simply can’t resist a little extra razzle-dazzle. How to ... Style your watch like a fashion editor “T H I S T I M E P I E C E IS A POS T E R GI R L F O R TH E C O N C E P T WE L I K E T O CA L L T H E L B W – L I T T L E BL A C K W A T C H ” NINA RIC CI VERS A C E SCHIAP ARELLI RALPH LA UREN NINA RI CC I mena SCH IAP ARELLI CE T E H ” VERS A C E HBA-194_OCT-24_070-071_Wear A Watch Like an Editor_13406067.indd 7030/09/2024 21:1071 HarpersBazaarArabia.com October 2024 The JEWELLERY Blazer, Dhs14,540, Tom Ford Glasses, Dhs1,680, Fendi Dress, Dhs15,200, Loewe Bow, Dhs1,215, Simone Rocha Shoes, Dhs3,750, Saint Laurent Vest, Dhs5,250, Saint Laurent Ring, Dhs30,500, Van Cleef & Arpels Headpiece, Dhs4,000, Dior Animal Jewellery Pebble Watch in Yellow Gold with Black Spinels, Black Lacquer and Diamonds, POA, Cartier IMAGES: SUPPLIED, COMPILED BY : CHARLOTTE MARSH-WILLIAMS Trousers, Dhs7,780, Alaïa Shoes, Dhs4,265, Givenchy Shirt, Dhs5,840, Tom Ford Earrings, Dhs3,650, Bottega Veneta HBA-194_OCT-24_070-071_Wear A Watch Like an Editor_13406067.indd 7130/09/2024 21:10IMAGES: MARIAM GERARD, CAR TIER COLLECTIONM, @ CAR TIER. F AUSTO PICEDI ARCHIVES DU P ALAIS DE MONACO - AIM. LOOP PHOTO SER VICE, CHICAGO / DEUTSCHE KINEMA THEK - MARLENE DIETRICH COLLECTION BERLIN, ALAMY Cartier’s world is a big one. So big, in fact, that there are often many facets of the maison’s philanthropic or social initiatives that it doesn’t much communicate on, preferring to just carry on the good work in the most elegant way possible – quietly, and for the sake of improving the world around us. Sponsoring Th e Venice Film Festival, however, is not something one can – or should – keep under wraps. Since becoming the headline sponsor of La Mostra Internatzionale d’Arte Cinematografi ca in 2021, it has endeavoured to not only do so in a suitably splashy, glamorous manner, but also in a classically Cartier sense; by weaving a more substantial magic just below the surface. Yes, Angelina Jolie and Timothée Chalamet may walk the red carpet in Cartier’s fi nest – back in full force post-SAG-AFTRA strikes – but it’s beyond Th e Lido that the maison’s extracurriculars truly shine. “Th at’s how we wanted to approach this partnership. Not to have [just] another red-carpet moment… we wanted it to be authentic and comprehensive, with meaning, and show our commitment to contemporary creation at large,” Arnaud Carrez, Cartier’s Senior Vice President and Chief Marketing Offi cer told Bazaar Arabia. “When we initiated this collaboration with La Mostra – La Mostra being glamorous, sophisticated and elegant - we said that Venice was the best city to express our diversity of commitment around art and culture,” he continues. “So everything started with La Mostra with cinema, but progressively Venice became an art and culture platform beyond it. Cinema remains the main anchorage, but this year we have the chance to [exhibit at craft fair] Homo Faber, [support] the Jean Cocteau retrospective at Th e Peggy Guggenheim Collection, [run] the fi lm masterclasses which are gaining traction year after year… so it’s really a unique platform for us.” Not only unique – truly meaningful, too. Th e maison has gone far beyond just painting the town Cartier red every year (you can’t miss the buzz, nor the enormous billboard writ large on the side of the Basilica Santa Maria 72 HarpersBazaarArabia.com Octobert 2024 Screen Time The love story between film and Cartier goes way back, with the maison adorning stars both on and off the silver screen. The Venice Film Festival is where that spark shines the brightest Words by OLIVIA PHILLIPS della Salute); it has actually put roots down in Venice. “Cartier is very much committed to Venice thanks to a few projects – we are also funding the restoration of Teatro Verde,” Arnaud adds, referring to the garden-set, open-air theatre where the maison hosted Melanie Laurent’s modern opera during the festival in 2022. Speaking about the maison’s lauded contemporary art museum, Arnaud adds, “Fondation Cartier is also involved with La Mostra, and the Fondation has been supporting cinema since its creation in 1984. So it’s really a holistic commitment,” he explains, sharing that this year is also the Fondation’s 40th anniversary, with a new location for the space opening next year in Paris. Venice, Cartier and La Mostra all share an artistic understanding, and as Cyrille Vigneron, Chairman of Cartier Culture and Philanthropy puts so clearly, “Birds of the same feather, fl ock together.” From Grace Kelly donning a Grain de Cafe necklace to Marilyn Monroe singing about the brand in Gentlemen Prefer Blondes, “Cartier and cinema are meant to be, always have been and always will be.” A love story worthy of the big screen. Elizabeth Taylor's platinum, yellow and white gold, diamonds and rubies necklace, 1951. Gloria Swanson wearing Cartier bracelets made of rock crystal and diamonds on platinum, 1930 (top). Marlene Dietrich with her Cartier bracelet (inset) and earrings in gold and silver, 1942 (above). Angelina Jolie (left) and Timothée Chalamet (below) in Cartier (2024). Jean Cocteau's sword, 1955. HBA-194_OCT-24_072-073_Cartier_F.O.B_13406774.indd 7201/10/2024 20:15“ C A R T I E R A N D C I N E M A A R E M E A N T T O B E , A L W A Y S H A V E B E E N A N D A L W A Y S W I L L B E ” Cyrille Vigneron 73 HarpersBazaarArabia.com Octobert 2024 TheTALKING POINTTheTALKING POINT Grace Kelly is wearing the Cartier necklace and earrings created for her in 1955 HBA-194_OCT-24_072-073_Cartier_F.O.B_13406774.indd 7301/10/2024 20:16THE . BAZAAR . ARABIA . GUIDE TO . ETIQUETTE Compiled by SOPHIA SERIN There’s a French exit, Irish exit, and now A DUBAI EXIT. Instead of sneaking out of the back door , let the host know you have TWO OTHER events to attend... ...but you made theirs a priority. Rule #42. Phones on the table during dinner, when to leave a party and adding a friend to (another) WhatsApp chat; Dubai’s most talented (and well-mannered) tastemakers, creatives and entrepreneurs share their words of wisdom on modern-day etiquette in the Middle East Th en enjoy the rest of your night with your cats in bed - CEEBO SHAH HBA-194_OCT-24_074-079_Etiquette_13403770.indd 7401/10/2024 09:50PHOTOGRAPHY BY : MA TTIA HOLM. STYLING BY : LAURA JANE BROWN The TALKING POINT 75 HarpersBazaarArabia.com October 2024 HBA-194_OCT-24_074-079_Etiquette_13403770.indd 7501/10/2024 09:51DIPESH DEPALA Co-Founder and Managing Partner, The Qode – an Independents Group company . It is NEVER appropriate or in good taste to wear gowns to the races. Much less gowns with hats or fascinators. . In a city where sandals and open-toed footwear are a fact of life, make sure to spare us any feet-related nightmares by keeping them well groomed and in tip ‘toe’ condition. . When walking in a mall, have the courtesy not to meander sluggishly like a lazy river. Consider that there may be people behind you who may have a quicker pace or urgency to pass you. Why can’t people walk in a straight line?! Not every BIRKIN is appropriate for EVERY occasion. As often witnessed in this city, a big Birkin at an elegant dinner or cocktail party is a huge faux pas, and very probably a faux bag! . When someone stops their car for you to cross the road, at least have the courtesy and education to acknowledge them with a wave, or a verbal thank you, or even the peace sign. I can’t remember the last time anyone did this. In fact, it’s mostly the opposite, where bizarrely I have often been at the other end of a dirty look instead of a thank you! KITTY FOX- MCGREGOR Entrepreneur and Founder of Pardus Consilio . When dressing in the Middle East, I believe subtle sophistication works. Modesty and confi dence in your style without exposing too much. A fl owing Pucci kaftan or silk palazzo pants always work, silks and lighter fabrics are perfect for the heat. In Dubai people do dress up, so investing in a few versatile luxury keys pieces is always a good idea. Be complimentary of your host’s home. Focus on the positive aspects even if the décor is not to your taste, highlight an item, a piece of art or furniture. Be respectful of cultural diff erences; in diff erent countries, others’ homes may diff er from yours. Don’t off er advice on how you might change anything, (or start moving furniture items around!) unless specifi cally asked. Th is may appear rude and disrespectful. . Always bring a gift for the host of the party. I try to consider where they are from and try to bring something from my own country, something unique that I hope they do not already have or cannot easily get – nothing over- extravagant, just something thoughtful. When returning from London, a favourite of mine is to gift beautifully packaged English biscuits from Fortnum & Mason. Or when travelling to London, I love to take incense and perfume oils from this region. . Don’t overstay at a party, especially if it’s at someone’s home. Exiting like a ‘dog-in-the-fog’ (a subtle exit without drawing too much attention to it) is totally acceptable once you have thanked your host. Th ere is absolutely nothing worse than a party barnacle! SOFIANE SI MEREBET Artist . When invited to a party, never ask who will be there. It will put your host in an awkward situation and might create a weird dynamic. Go and enjoy. . Bring books to your host. Beyond fl owers and candles, books are a great way to share a part of yourself and your universe. It can be literature or a nice photography coff ee table book. We can never have enough books! . Normalise eating with hands – especially for dishes which are made to be eaten with them. Hummous or other dips should be eaten with bread and hands. OLIVIA PHILLIPS Editor in Chief, Harper’s Bazaar Arabia Group . It is embarrassing for all involved to pore over the bill after a meal with friends, doing pedantic calculations on your iPhone over who had what. Split the bill evenly (like a grown-up) and leave safe in the knowledge that people aren’t gossiping about you on the way home. And if they are, at least it won’t be about that. . Parking your car – however impressive it may be – across multiple spaces succeeds in nothing but exposing exactly how awful you are. . If you insist on leaving a voice note, brevity is key. Under 20 seconds is preferable. Longer than two minutes is called a phone call. Selling Sunset IS NOT a blueprint for how one should dress in the offi ce. Th ere is a time and a place for revealing ensembles and neither is in the workplace. Put it away. 76 HarpersBazaarArabia.com October 2024 HBA-194_OCT-24_074-079_Etiquette_13403770.indd 7601/10/2024 09:51EILEEN WALLIS Managing Partner at Wallis & Senior Communications Advisor . My life mantra for enjoying the hospitality of others, improving personal and professional relationships, and even enhancing workplaces, can be summarised as: Leave things BETTER than YOU found them. . As a guest, this approach means deliberately not making more work for your host or hostess, i.e., bringing along fl owers which need to be cut and arranged, and instead actually seeking out opportunities to make their lives easier before and during the event. . Send an orchid, a chilled bottle of bubbles, or even some interesting books around to them on the morning before your arrival. . If you’re staying over, arrange to make dinner or brunch (including purchasing all ingredients and cleaning up after) and proactively look for things that need to be done around the house. Run a load of beach towels in the washer, walk the dog and fi x the hostess a drink while she’s checking on what’s in the oven or the host is grilling your steak. Look for ways to be inclusive. Th is goes for both personal and professional events – there will always be people standing around the periphery who may not know other attendees as you do. Be comfortable fi nding a lighthearted topic (anything other than ‘what do you do?’ It’s tedious) that expands the circle of discussion to include anyone on the edges so everyone feels more engaged. AJAZ SHEIKH Group CEO of The Arts Club . If someone opens a good bottle of whiskey after dinner for you to try, (especially if it’s over 21 and Japanese or vintage), savour it politely, but decline the next. Th ere is really no need to fi nish the whole bottle. Remember the ‘leave earlier’ rule. . If you decide to clean your windshield whilst driving, please make sure that there is nobody behind you, as your water spray will stain the car behind you. . Never be rude to any employees, anywhere. Th ey are hardworking people just trying to do their job. . Th ere should be no cause for smoking around people who are eating, even if it’s on a terrace and especially with children around. Some people sit on a terrace to enjoy clean fresh air. . Do not wear garments heavily adorned with logos, regardless of how costly they may be. . Don’t call people you have not met before (and who may not have your number saved), but politely check in ahead of time with a message to see if they are free. DON’T call ANYONE after 6PM, UNLESS they are family or close friends. NAZLI SONMEZ Chief Brand Offi cer, Rikas Group . In an age of digital communication, be mindful when texting or messaging and be aware of tone and context. Miscommunication can easily happen through screens, so consider whether you are using the right words to convey the right intentions or emotions. . Prioritise in-person meetings over digital ones. Listening is key to conversation, as is eye contact to engage fully with each other rather than checking your phone every minute. Put your phone away during face-to-face discussions! . Gracious hosting needs to feel eff ortless and authentic. Simple but elegant décor along with a delicious and heart-warming meal prepared with love and passion are far more appreciated than extravagant displays and unnecessary extravaganzas. . Rather than showcasing all your wardrobe all at once, emphasise a chic and elegant look – classic and timeless pieces that never go out of style. Choose quality over quantity. A simple pair of studs or a vintage watch can elevate your outfi t in just the right way. Know thy host. Don’t bring any gifts, show up on time and don’t outstay your welcome (always leave early). 77 HarpersBazaarArabia.com October 2024 The TALKING POINT HBA-194_OCT-24_074-079_Etiquette_13403770.indd 7701/10/2024 09:51Next >