< Previous58 HarpersBazaarArabia.com October 2024 This Month... Dr. Saliha Afridi PsyD (USA) CLINICAL PSYCHOLOGIST, managing director of The Lighthouse Arabia enopause, a natural and inevitable transition in a woman’s life, has long been shrouded in misunderstanding and stigma within many societies. Instead of being celebrated as a powerful time of spiritual transformation and a profound rite of passage as it is in many indigenous cultures, menopause is often medicalised and seen as a condition to be treated or a time to be mourned. The cultural obsession with youth and the deep fear and rejection of aging have further contributed to the loss of meaning of this important life stage for women. However, as more and more women seek to understand the menopause and the narrative surrounding it, there is a growing realisation that this period can be one of the most spiritually enriching time in a woman’s life. Th e Spiritual Transformation of Menopause In some traditions, peri- menopause is a time of transition to eldership with menopause seen not as an end but as a beginning – a gateway to a new phase of life marked by maturity, wisdom and spiritual growth. Th is transition is often likened to a ‘second spring,’ where a woman, no longer bound by the cycles of menstruation and fertility, can fully embrace her inner self and connect with deeper spiritual truths. In other traditions, it is believed that just as women do not menstruate during pregnancy because their blood is devoted to the creation of new life, so too in menopause, menstruation ceases because the blood is redirected to creating wisdom. Th is wisdom, in turn, elevates her to the respected role of a matriarch, granting her a higher social and spiritual status within her community. Similar patterns can even be observed in the animal kingdom: orcas and short-fi nned pilot whales are among the few species that go through menopause. In these species, elder females take on a central role, using their accumulated knowledge to guide and direct their pods, much like the wisdom of post-menopausal women in human societies. Th inning of the Hormonal Veil Th e hormonal changes of menopause, particularly the decline in estrogen and October 18th is World Menopause Day, with the entire month also dedicated to this natural, physical and spiritual phase that is a rite of passage for every woman... HBA-194_OCT-24_058-059_DrSaliha_13386886.indd 5830/09/2024 21:0459 HarpersBazaarArabia.com October 2024 The TALKING POINT Dr. Saliha AFRIDI The Column progesterone, have a signifi cant impact on a woman’s physical and emotional state. Th e hormones associated with fertility and childbearing are often linked to qualities of giving, nurturing, and sustaining life. When these hormones diminish, it can feel like a signifi cant shift in identity and purpose for many women. However, some traditions often frame this loss not as a depletion but as a transformation. Th e energy and focus that were once directed outward – to children, family, and community – can now be redirected inward, toward spiritual development. Th is shift allows women to reclaim their power and redefi ne their roles within their families and communities, not just as caregivers but as wise leaders and spiritual guides. Th e thinning of the hormonal veil can lead to heightened emotional sensitivity, making women more attuned to their inner world and more open to spiritual exploration. As such, for many women, the menopause is a time of profound introspection. Freed from the demands of child-rearing and career building, women often fi nd themselves turning inward, refl ecting on their life experiences and seeking deeper meaning. Th is period of refl ection can lead to a greater understanding of oneself and a stronger connection with the divine. In this way, menopause serves as a catalyst for spiritual growth, allowing women to shed old identities and embrace a more authentic, empowered self. Reclaiming the Narrative of Menopause As more and more women become aware of the spiritual potential of menopause, there is a growing movement to reclaim the narrative surrounding this life stage. Women are beginning to challenge the medicalisation of menopause and the cultural stigma around aging, seeking instead to see menopause as a time of empowerment and spiritual growth. 5 Ways Women Can Reclaim the Narrative of Menopause 1Redefi ne aging as empowerment Women can actively challenge societal stereotypes about aging by redefi ning what it means to grow older. Th is includes embracing the wisdom, strength and resilience that comes with age and rejecting the notion that youth is the only valuable or beautiful phase of life. Jean Shinoda Bolen, a Jungian psychologist and author, in her book Goddesses in Older Women: Archetypes in Women Over Fifty, explores the notion that women, as they transition through menopause, embody the archetype of the ‘Queen’ or ‘Sovereign.’ Th e Queen is a woman who has gone through the menopausal transition and come into her own power, wisdom, and authority. In this stage of life she moves from the roles traditionally associated with fertility, such as the mother or caregiver, to a role where she reigns over her own life with confi dence and sense of purpose. 2Celebrate the rite of passage with rituals Instead of viewing menopause as something to be endured or managed, see it as a rite of passage to an empowering phase of life. Th is can include personal rituals or ceremonies to honour the transition, such as connecting to the moon cycles, gardening, crafting a personal altar, keeping a journal or gathering with other women to share experiences. 3Educate and inform: Knowledge is power By educating yourself about the physical, emotional and spiritual aspects of menopause, you can take control of your experiences and make informed decisions about your health and well-being. By sharing this knowledge with others – whether in conversation, in writing or on social media – you can break down the stigma and misinformation surrounding menopause and empower more women to see menopause as a transformative time. 4Build a supportive community A strong community reinforces the idea that women are not alone in this experience and that menopause is a shared, powerful transition. You can join or create groups focused on discussing menopause, attend workshops or retreats that address the spiritual aspects of this stage of life, or cultivate close relationships with friends who understand and respect this journey. 5Be curious about your evolving self As you go through the changes of menopause, you might fi nd yourself evolving and becoming curious about new aspects of who you are. Th is can be an ideal time to explore interests or hobbies you may not have had time for earlier in life. Whether it’s learning a new skill, travelling, volunteering or pursuing a passion project, being open to trying new things can bring joy, fulfi llment, and a renewed sense of purpose. Embrace this period of discovery as an opportunity to reconnect with yourself and uncover new passions. HBA-194_OCT-24_058-059_DrSaliha_13386886.indd 5930/09/2024 21:05IMAGES: SUPPLIED Through cultural integration and craftsmanship, designers from India and Pakistan are shaping the future of luxury fashion in Dubai, one of the world’s most dynamic markets he Middle East is magnetic. Just ask one of the millions who emigrate each year, each looking to carve out a home in this vibrant and cosmopolitan land. For many, their fi rst stop is Dubai – the perfect stepping stone into the Middle East. In fact, such has been the infl ux in recent years that now Indians and Pakistanis (together) make up nearly 40 per cent of the population of Dubai. Th e result? A thriving city that South Asian designers are keen to capitalise on. “Th e cultural and economic fi t of the region, with varied nationalities, makes it an attractive destination for fashion brands,” says Mukta Shahdadpuri, co-founder of Th e Collective, a curated exhibition experience service. “Its diverse population, including Arabs who appreciate Indian fashion and aesthetics, makes it a central point for these brands to reach a larger market,” referring to the number of Indian and Pakistani designers who have set up fl agship stores or host private exhibitions across the region. Th is could not have been done without the region’s support – recent investment into the fashion and lifestyle sectors has further provided a platform for collaborations and partnerships, allowing South Asian designers a broader market reach than ever before. Coupled with the longstanding cultural and economic ties between South Asia and the Middle East, it allows for a smooth expansion due to key similarities – particularly an appreciation for intricate textiles and craftsmanship. “Designers are fi nding further successes by integrating with the local cultures and adapting to the Middle East,” says Masoom Minawala Mehta, infl uencer and entrepreneur who moved to Dubai last year. “Success is met by being malleable,”she adds. Here, we meet a few of the designers who have extended their footprint to the Middle East… Words by SITARA MULCHANDANI RAHUL MISHRA RAHUL MISHRA HBA-194_OCT-24_060-064_S.E.A_13403338.indd 6001/10/2024 20:2761 HarpersBazaarArabia.com October 2024 TheLIST AMIT A GGAR W A L GA URA V GUPT A HBA-194_OCT-24_060-064_S.E.A_13403338.indd 6101/10/2024 20:27IMAGES: SUPPLIED 62 HarpersBazaarArabia.com October 2024 TheLIST LOVEBIRDS The Functionalists Lovebirds by Gursi Singh and Amrita Khanna believe in making clothes that prioritise functionality over trends. “From the start, our brand principles have aligned with the Middle Eastern market,” explains Gursi, who just began retailing on Ounass, allowing them to reach a growing GCC clientele. lovebirds-studio.com and Ounass.com AMIT AGGARWAL The Futurist “Th e euphoric social life of the Middle East generates demand for unique event and occasion wearers,” explains Amit Aggarwal, who has exhibited in the Middle East since 2018. His iconic designs featuring sculptural silhouettes that challenge the existing human form have become fi rm celebrity favourites on and off the red carpet. “Th ere’s a strong demand for high- quality, exclusive fashion products that indicate status and sophistication,” explains the designer. amitaggarwal.com TARUN TAHILIANI The Visionary “As the world becomes more global and fashion ceases to be ethnic, it [fashion] will begin to transcend boundaries, and silhouettes will start to infl uence each other,” muses Tarun, who’s credited with redefi ning contemporary Indian fashion due to his ability to fuse traditional craftmanship with tailored silhouettes. “Arab women are some of the most sophisticated and chic shoppers in the world. I believe in time you’ll see more and more South Asian designers entering the Middle East.” taruntahiliani.com HBA-194_OCT-24_060-064_S.E.A_13403338.indd 6201/10/2024 20:2763 HarpersBazaarArabia.com October 2024 TheLIST GAURAV GUPTA The Modernist For celebrity favourite Gaurav Gupta, it’s all about the natural synergy between the two regions. “Th e Middle East shares a deep cultural connection with South Asia, and there’s a genuine appreciation for craftsmanship, luxury and ornate design. It feels like a natural progression for South Asian designers to be here, where their work is understood and celebrated,” he explains. Th e brand, which regularly hosts trunk shows across the region, has developed a loyal local and expat following and will soon launch at Bloomingdale’s UAE. gauravguptastudio.com NIDA AZWER The Revivalist “Th e Middle East consumer is incredibly discerning. Th ey are always looking for something unique,” says Nida. A true revivalist, Nida is renowned for bringing back and updating traditional craft techniques such as zardozi and rilli, elevating them to suit today’s silhouettes. “Over the last 12 years, I have built a strong clientele in the Middle East,” explaining that she often hosts solo exhibitions across the region. nidaazwer.com SANIA MASKATIYA The Seeker “Th ere’s nowhere quite like Dubai,” explains Sania, who recently started retailing on Ounass. From her bold, printed co-ord sets to her embroidered kaftans and jalabiyas, she tailors her designs to suit the season, all the while staying true to the brand’s signature styles. “Dubai is vibrant and growing, and I’m excited for what’s next.” saniamaskatiya.com HBA-194_OCT-24_060-064_S.E.A_13403338.indd 6301/10/2024 20:27IMAGES: SUPPLIED 64 HarpersBazaarArabia.com October 2024 TheLIST RAHUL MISHRA The Magician Th e fi rst Indian fashion designer to show at Paris Couture Week, Rahul Mishra has been breaking global boundaries with his ability to conjure up majestical creations that pay homage to Indian craftsmanship. “Th ere’s a genuine sense of luxury, authenticity and inclusivity in the region,” says Rahul, who strives to create designs that are global yet deeply connected to the Indian sensibility. rahulmishra.in FARAZ MANAN The Pioneer When Faraz opened his fi rst fl agship store in Dubai over 10 years ago, few other South Asian designers were available in the region. “At the time, there were only a couple of multi-brand stores,” he reminisces. I wanted potential clients to truly experience the brand.” Today, Faraz has dressed celebrities and socialites alike with his inimitable collection of delicate pastels and tonal embellishments. farazmanan.com ANITA DONGRE The Dreamer Anita Dongre has always had a knack for sewing. Today, she has managed to transform that skill into a global fashion powerhouse. “When entering this market, it was important for me to understand the Middle Eastern woman and what she wants. While there are so many similarities, there are also deeper cultural nuances that are diff erent, which make it exciting to design for.” anitadongre.ae MISHA LAKHANI The Storyteller Rooted in traditional craftsmanship, Misha Lakhani’s eponymous brand creates intricately crafted designs that fuse tradition with modernity. “We wanted our clients to immerse themselves in the brand and understand us,” she explains, referring to her newly opened Dubai fl agship – a sun-drenched, art-fi lled space that evokes a sense of serenity and calm. Th ere is a lot of synergy between our cultures. Th e styles we carry here are for the global nomad with a love for the artisanal and the versatile.” mishalakhani.com HBA-194_OCT-24_060-064_S.E.A_13403338.indd 6401/10/2024 20:2765 HarpersBazaarArabia.com October 2024 Multiple cultures have inspired this MOULIN ROUGE neck piece from SABYASACHI HIGH JEWELLERY. This celebration of craftsmanship, featuring everything from medieval to renaissance techniques was created in 18k gold with tourmalines, sapphires, gemstones and diamonds. Moulin Rouge necklace, POA, Sabyasachi High Jewellery HBA-194_OCT-24_065_Jewellery Opener_13406061.indd 6530/09/2024 21:0866 HarpersBazaarArabia.com October 2024 hen a watchmaking maison has made timepieces for the Maharaja of Patiala, King Louis-Philippe of France and Marlon Brando all in the space of a couple of hundred years, it’s only natural to wonder who might become the lucky owner of its latest one-of-a-kind creations. Vacheron Constantin’s Grand Lady Kalla is certainly destined for a fabulous life; unveiled earlier this year as an ode to high-jewellery artisanry and impeccably precise timekeeping, the secret pendant watch is a pièce unique in every sense of the word. “Th e Grand Lady Kalla represents a vision where artistry, innovation, and luxury coexist, off ering women a watch that is not just an accessory but a statement of individuality,” says Sandrine Donguy, director of product and innovation at Vacheron Constantin. “Th e Grand Lady Kalla speaks to the maison’s belief that a woman’s watch can be both technically brilliant and exquisitely beautiful.” ‘Technically brilliant’ is somewhat of an understatement. Wearable four diff erent ways, the time-telling sautoir spent several months in production, with its artisans on a quest to achieve perfect symmetry and balance between glittering Words by Charlie Boyd The Art of Decadence The Grand Lady Kalla features 268 diamonds totalling over 46 carats and 199 Akoya pearls and 51 onyx beads Vacheron Constantin’s GRAND LADY KALLA timepiece is a feat of elegance and engineering, marrying precision watchmaking with high jewellery flair IMAGES: SUPPLIED gemstones and a delicate watch mechanism. Transformable between pendant, pendant watch, wrist watch and bracelet – a detachable two-carat diamond cleverly conceals the watch face to put the piece into jewellery mode – the mission was to craft a diamond masterpiece that felt comfortable and sensational in equal measure. Th is was an epic undertaking that drew upon the maison’s 269-year-strong legacy, relying upon its gem setters, goldsmiths, and watchmakers to work in perfect harmony. “Each craftsman brought their expertise to the table, ensuring that the piece not only functioned impeccably but also dazzled as a work of art,” explains Sandrine. Th e exquisite hand craftsmanship certainly sings, with each of the watch’s 131 diamonds (all chosen for their clarity and brilliance) invisibly set to ensure seamless sparkle. Marrying the past with the modern, the design also relied upon avant-garde CAD technology, enabling precise adjustments in the diamond setting and the interchangeable system, enabling the movement to be cleverly concealed beneath a blanket of diamonds. HBA-194_OCT-24_066-069_Vacheron_13406062_13406234.indd 6630/09/2024 21:09“ T H E G R AN D LA D Y K A L L A RE P R E S E N T S A V I S I O N WH E R E AR T I S T R Y , IN N O V A T I O N AN D L U X U R Y CO E X IS T ” A one-of-a-kind piece, the Grand Lady Kalla boasts Art Deco design with modern fl air The JEWELLERY HBA-194_OCT-24_066-069_Vacheron_13406062_13406234.indd 6730/09/2024 21:09Next >