< Previous368 PHOTOGRAPHY Marc Medina WORDS Alison Tay The Business of 368-375_VISION_VOL2_BUSINESS.indd 36819/04/2024 14:56369 streetwear 1 886 368-375_VISION_VOL2_BUSINESS.indd 36919/04/2024 14:56370 N O B LE & F R ESH 368-375_VISION_VOL2_BUSINESS.indd 37019/04/2024 14:56371 Thanks to a unique creative voice, a young population, plus an injection of international investment, Saudi streetwear is fast becoming the Kingdom’s most exciting new subculture and unexpected success story Against the backdrop of collective modernisation across the country, Saudi streetwear has broken out as a dynamic new movement of its own. And the RSH Street Art Festival in Riyadh – a collaboration between the Visual Arts Commission and the Fashion Commission – is just the latest opportunity Saudi designers have to level up, both within the borders of the Kingdom and beyond. In June 2023, a Saudi Arabian delegation went to Paris to submit its bid to host a World Expo in Riyadh from 1 October 2030 to 31 March 2031. After presenting to the 172nd General Assembly of the Bureau International des Expositions (BIE) – the intergovernmental organisation responsible for overseeing and regulating World Expos – the delegation’s proposed theme of The Era of Change: Together for a Foresighted Tomorrow secured the win. Meanwhile, the streetwear designers of the Saudi 100 Brands initiative were preparing a presentation of their own. Not content with representing the Kingdom at Pavillon Vendôme during Paris Fashion Week Men’s EMERGE, the fi rst catwalk show of Saudi fashion, Noble & Fresh, Mazrood, 1886, Not Boring, Hindamme, and Torba Studio joined their fellow designers at the inaugural EMERGE pop-up store. Held at 8 rue des Francs-Bourgeois in Le Marais, the retail moment was a collaboration with the Visual Arts Commission and the Culinary Arts Commission. Selected brands then went on to participate in a ready-to-wear showroom at the prestigious Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine. Then, at Milan Fashion Week in September, established names including Mazrood, Uscita, and RBA New York, plus emerging brands such as Noms, MD29, and SIGN, had the chance to show their collections to international buyers at the ready-to-wear showroom at White Milano in Via Tortona’s fashion district. Finally, Riyadh Fashion Week served as a glorious homecoming for all Saudi brands, especially menswear luminaries Lomar, 1886, Mazrood, Noble & Fresh, Harjuss, Not Boring, Noura Sulaiman, Jubb, Uscita and MD29, who closed out the four-day event with a daring display of design, dynamism and national pride. According to Burak Çakmak, CEO of the Fashion Commission, and the mastermind behind these initiatives and many more, such moments have served as catalysts for these designers to develop their ideas even further. “The benefi t of having the Fashion Commission and our support of the Saudi 100 Brands initiative is actually encouraging Saudi streetwear brands to push their limits,” he reveals. “They started focusing on hoodies, T-shirts, and shorts – which is the foundation for all streetwear labels – but obviously they didn’t have the opportunity to do shows or really push their creativity to market their brands in a different way until now. So, through these programmes, we’re highlighting the importance of having a clear identity, not just through marketing but also in the show pieces they’re putting on the catwalk.” He continues, “By creating opportunities such as Riyadh Fashion Week, the RSH Street Art Festival, plus conceptualising one-off looks for runways and red carpets, suddenly the designers have to defi ne what their brand’s about in these unique moments, beyond the hoodies and the T-shirts normally associated with streetwear. And this actually motivates everybody to look at their identity, where they live, where they come from, and taking elements from the architecture, nature, street culture, music, lyrics, and lifestyle, and applying it to their work. All this is infl uencing the designs and the messaging around them.” On how this unique set of circumstances has driven the evolution of Saudi streetwear, Burak points out, “This is the fi rst season I have seen knitwear, so they are expanding the categories and their offering to customers to try to stand out from the competition. I think a part of what’s happening, not just with the streetwear movement but also the fashion movement in the country as a whole, is that brands are really rising to the challenge of offering something new and different to catch that moment.” 368-375_VISION_VOL2_BUSINESS.indd 37119/04/2024 14:56This streetwear surge in Saudi Arabia is in step with rapid growth in the Kingdom across all sectors. The State of Fashion in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia 2023 report found that in 2022 the fashion industry contributed 1.4 per cent of GDP and the men’s market, currently valued at US$3.5bn, is expected to grow by 27 per cent from 2022 to 2027. The report also reveals that in 2022, adidas, Nike and Puma accounted for more than 50 per cent of total clothing sales in Saudi Arabia. As a result, it declared that “sportswear and general athleisure apparel has become a dynamic product category, with US$1.3 billion in sales in 2022. The sector is expected to grow 21 per cent by 2027, with this growth anticipated across both performance and sports-inspired apparel and footwear.” Why does this matter? As the report concludes, “The growing sportswear market is ripe for new opportunities – across both established and emerging brands.” Two Saudi streetwear designers who have already benefi ted from this trend are Arwa Al Banawi and Mohammed Bajbaa of Proud Angeles. In 2021, adidas Originals invited Arwa to reimagine the Forum Low sneaker, and in 2023, adidas joined forces with Proud Angeles at Gamers8 – an offl ine esports tournament in Saudi Arabia. Described as “a game-changing collab remixing streetwear culture with Saudi’s fi nest”, from 11-31 August shoppers were invited to customise adidas apparel with exclusive Proud Angeles designs at the Gamers8 MakerLab. Defi ning it as his proudest career achievement to date, Mohammed explains, “As sponsors of the tournament, adidas wanted to create a collaboration with one of the local brands to bring the culture to the games. So we did that through our designs and that was defi nitely a very beautiful moment.” On the reason behind this infl ection point, Burak explains, “You are looking at a population, 50 per cent of which is under 25 years old and very much inspired by the global youth movements and cultures. If you look at all under-25s anywhere in the world, there is an appreciation of streetwear, and even premium luxury brands have now moved in this direction.” Specifi c to local traditions, Burak concedes, “It’s much harder to express yourself through fashion when you are only wearing thobes, hence streetwear has become the conduit for young Saudis to showcase their identity.” He continues, “Until now Saudis were only buying streetwear from international brands – there was no domestic offering. Streetwear is a new category in the Kingdom, and because it’s mostly being led by under-30s whose brands are approximately three to fi ve years old, there is an appetite to create product that never really existed in the country from a local brand, and develop a market that has very high potential commercially, giving opportunity for real serious business to be established.” Proving that Saudi brands are able to compete on an international level, Burak discloses, “Harjuss has doubled its sales in the past year after joining the Saudi 100 Brands programme, and 1886 has seen a signifi cant growth in its sales as well. Emerging international streetwear brands are doing really well fi nancially in the country. There is no reason why a Saudi brand will not be able to do the same.” To accelerate this trajectory, last October at the investment roadshow in New York, consumer-focused private equity fi rm Turmeric Capital announced an injection of capital into 1886 and ethical luxury label Abadia as part of a strategic partnership facilitated by the Fashion Commission. On why the elevated streetwear brand attracted the investor’s attention, Burak acknowledges, “1886’s fi nancials have already shown progressive growth. In addition, they also have a strong identity from a branding and marketing perspective, and have great existing recognition in the market, despite only having two pop-up stores and one permanent store. We know the potential is big for them to open new stores and further improve their product ranges and do even better marketing and activations, fi rst starting with Saudi but also expanding to other regions. We feel they can appeal to a much wider audience.” Independently, Noura Sulaiman – the fi rst female Saudi designer representing menswear at Paris and Milan Fashion Weeks, and the only female Saudi designer showcasing a men’s luxury collection at Riyadh Fashion Week – has also secured investment for her eponymous brand of contemporary tailoring. “We are looking forward and working really hard to expand and to reach our vision,” Noura beams proudly. “We all know that the market is Saudi, the future is Saudi, and we belong to the future of the luxury market in Saudi.” Burak agrees. “We will continue to grow the Saudi 100 Brands initiative and continue to create opportunities for investment,” he divulges. “We were very keen to announce that 1886 and Abadia have secured their fi rst investment from an international private equity fi rm, and Noura Sulaiman was able to fi nd an investor herself. We want to continue tracking this, supporting this, and demonstrating that there are opportunities in the Saudi sector for fashion, and to attract investment to grow the contribution to the GDP.” 372 368-375_VISION_VOL2_BUSINESS.indd 37221/04/2024 20:49373 MD29 368-375_VISION_VOL2_BUSINESS.indd 37319/04/2024 14:56374 1 886 368-375_VISION_VOL2_BUSINESS.indd 37419/04/2024 14:56375 The Chairman of Turmeric Capital, Ravi Thakran, believes that the best way to contribute to the Saudi fashion ecosystem and work towards the objectives of Vision 2030 is by backing future Saudi entrepreneurs You’ve been involved in the Fashion Commission’s efforts to build the fashion industry in Saudi Arabia since your time as Group Chairman LVMH Asia. What excites you about fashion in the region, and how have you seen the region grow? The Saudi Arabian fashion scene is incredibly stimulating, not just because of its dynamic and evolving nature, but also due to the emerging role of female entrepreneurs and designers. The involvement of women in the industry, both in leadership and creative roles, marks a signifi cant and progressive shift in the region. This growth in female empowerment within the sector is not only reshaping local fashion narratives but also refl ects broader socio-cultural changes in the Kingdom. The way the region has grown, embracing its heritage while innovatively integrating global trends and fostering a new wave of women-led fashion enterprises, truly excites me. This transformation is indicative of a deeper change in society, where women are increasingly recognised as pivotal contributors to cultural and economic development. To what do you attribute the growth of the fashion industry in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia? The growth can be attributed to several factors. The commitment of the Fashion Commission, their strategic partnerships, and the support from the Saudi government in promoting local talent have played signifi cant roles. Are there factors outside the Fashion Commission’s efforts that have contributed to this growth? Certainly. The demographic shift, with a signifi cant portion of the population being millennials and Gen Z, has fostered a more fashion- forward mindset. The Saudi youth’s appetite for global fashion trends, coupled with their desire to infuse them with local sensibilities, has created a unique and attractive proposition for the global market. The increasing global exposure through digital platforms, the growth of e-commerce, and events like Riyadh Fashion Week have also played a pivotal role in amplifying the visibility of Saudi’s fashion landscape on the global stage. How much has Turmeric Capital invested in 1886 and Abadia? While I cannot disclose the exact fi gures, I can assure you that our investment is a refl ection of our confi dence in the potential of these brands to achieve international acclaim. What qualities, capabilities, and potential did you look for in the brands you invested in? At Turmeric Capital, we always look for brands with a unique value proposition. Both 1886 and Abadia have that distinctiveness. Their deep-rooted understanding of Saudi culture, innovative designs, and commitment to sustainability and ethical practices resonated with our investment philosophy. Additionally, the passion and vision of their founders were vital indicators of their potential for growth and global impact. What is Turmeric Capital expecting as a return on this investment? Beyond the monetary returns, which we anticipate will be substantial given the growth trajectory of the fashion sector in Saudi Arabia, we’re looking at a broader ROI. Our investment aims to enhance the global presence of Saudi fashion, bridge cultural divides, and champion the cause of sustainable and ethical fashion. What are your predictions for the future of Saudi Arabia’s fashion industry? The fashion industry in Saudi Arabia is on the precipice of a major boom. Given its current growth rate, Saudi fashion is poised to become a signifi cant player in the global arena. With continuous support from institutions like the Fashion Commission, increasing consumer purchasing power, and the drive to diversify the economy under Vision 2030, I foresee Saudi fashion brands making a mark on international runways and retail spaces in the near future. It’s an exciting time for the region, and the world should keep an eye on what’s unfolding in Saudi Arabia. 368-375_VISION_VOL2_BUSINESS.indd 37519/04/2024 14:56376 The Year Abadia of 376-381_VISION_VOL2_ABADIA-MS.indd 37619/04/2024 14:58377 376-381_VISION_VOL2_ABADIA-MS.indd 37719/04/2024 14:58Next >