< Previous208 Jumpsuit, SIGN 206-217_VISION_VOL2_MILAN.indd 20819/04/2024 11:20209 It wasn’t so long ago that the treasures of Saudi creativity remained largely unearthed by the international fashion world. That all changed when the Fashion Commission invited enough demi-couture, heritage, ready-to- wear, menswear, streetwear, jewellery, and bag designers from the fi rst season of the Saudi 100 Brands programme to fi ll an entire building during Milan Fashion Week in 2022. Now, 12 months later, the Saudi 100 Brands are back in Milan. And they want everyone to know it. “This year’s showcase will be much more immersive, allowing the global fashion community to meet, interact and discover the talent coming out of the Kingdom,” promises Fashion Commission CEO Burak Çakmak. True to his word, the designers of the Saudi 100 Brands initiative took over the fashion capital with a pop-up store at 10 Corso Como, a runway gala at the prestigious Palazzo Serbelloni, and a showroom at Padiglione Visconti in the Tortona Fashion District. With its gilded adornment, decorative stucco arches, and sweeping stone spiral staircase, the neoclassical surroundings of the chandelier-strewn Palazzo Serbelloni on Corso Venezia left Milan in no doubt that Saudi Arabia had arrived. A grandiose gala evening fused dance, culture and fashion, starring dancers from La Scala theatre, and looks from 30 Saudi designers gracing the catwalk. Brenda Bellei, CEO of WHITE Milano, a global incubator for emerging design talent, refl ects, “What makes Saudi fashion unique is the high quality, attention to detail when it comes to embroidery and embellishments, sustainability, and also its expression of femininity, which is always very elegant and refi ned.” Keen to show the versatility of the offering, she adds, “And as for the designers who address themselves to a more street sensibility, I always fi nd them very fresh and contemporary with a strong DNA.” Industry insiders who were wowed at Palazzo Serbelloni had the opportunity to view the designs up close at the WHITE Milano showroom on Via Tortona in the city’s fashion district from 22-25 September 2023. The showroom featured 40 Saudi brands – 85 per cent of which are female-led. The established brands participating were: Nouf Alsudairi, RBA New York, Mazrood, Uscita, Sara Intabi, NH Designer, Vaya Fashion, Ashwaq AlMarshad, Renove Fashion by Najla Almansour, Agmarat, Al Maha Designs, Dananeer Designs, Dar Bella Fashion House, Ivori Fashion, Mona Alshebil, The Dropped Collection, WA The Naqadis, The Untitled Project, Rosa Canina, Yataghan Jewellery, Jayla, and Sajas. The emerging brands taking part were 35design, Ain, AD by Areej AlDakheel, Derza, Haifa Humaid, JF, Kharaz by Shamma, La Précieuse, Lu Vixen, MD29, NAN, Norms, Noura Al Ghilaisi, RM Jewelry, Reema Albawardy, Rebirth, Samar Nasraldin, SIGN, and Yasmeen Marzouq Jewelry. According to Brenda, these designers are successfully staying faithful to their heritage while addressing the tastes of the global audience. “International buyers are always looking for new forms of creativity. I have noticed remarkable developments in their creativity while always remaining connected to their roots. Fashion needs to differentiate itself, a designer is still an artist expressing their creative identity but aware of and open to the infl uences of the international market. The real challenge is to remain oneself with an international twist. In my opinion, these designers are going in the right direction.” Meanwhile, throughout Milan Fashion Week, taking a prime store-front position at the iconic concept store 10 Corso Como from 19-28 September 2023, the Emerge pop-up was open to the public, retailing designs by Agmarat, Dananeer, Ivori Fashion, Jayla, Mona Alshebil, RBA New York, Sajas, Derza, Linen by A, MD29, Reham Nassier, and Samar Nasraldin, to complete the circle. In the context of Vision 2030, Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman Al Saud’s modernisation strategy, and the Kingdom’s astonishing transformation both in the sector and beyond, Brenda’s advice to international players is to keep an open mind. “As for buyers, I think the challenge is also on their part, to let themselves be infl uenced by new creative styles and new cultures in the fashion scene, and I am sure the time is now right.” She observes, “Times are constantly changing, and it would be foolish not to notice it, not to admit it, and not to seize the many opportunities these changes bring. Art, music and fashion are the three great forms of expression that continually refl ect these changes.” It may be the second year Milan Fashion Week has welcomed designers from the Saudi 100 Brands — thanks to the Fashion Commission’s long-standing partnership with WHITE Milano — but here’s why the latest season was stronger than ever PHOTOGRAPHY Ana Martí FASHION DIRECTOR Anna Castan HAIR & MAKEUP Ricky Morandin / Wave STYLIST’S ASSISTANT Christian Marchesich PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT Gabo Boza TALENT Samira Heringer / Select Model Management WORDS Alison Tay 206-217_VISION_VOL2_MILAN.indd 20921/04/2024 20:26210 Dress, RMRM 206-217_VISION_VOL2_MILAN.indd 21021/04/2024 21:14211 Jumpsuit, REBIRTH 206-217_VISION_VOL2_MILAN.indd 21119/04/2024 11:20Dress, RMRM 206-217_VISION_VOL2_MILAN.indd 21219/04/2024 11:20213 Coat, NORMS 206-217_VISION_VOL2_MILAN.indd 21319/04/2024 11:20214 Jacket, SAMAR NASRALDIN 206-217_VISION_VOL2_MILAN.indd 21419/04/2024 11:20215 Jacket and Trousers, SAMAR NASRALDIN 206-217_VISION_VOL2_MILAN.indd 21519/04/2024 11:20216 Coat, THE UNTITLED PROJECT 206-217_VISION_VOL2_MILAN.indd 21619/04/2024 11:20217 Trousers, RMRM 206-217_VISION_VOL2_MILAN.indd 21719/04/2024 11:20Next >