< Previous118 Blazer, Shirt, Tie, and Bag, TORBA STUDIO 108-121_VISION_VOL2_MENSWEAR STORY.indd 11821/04/2024 20:17119 Jacket, Shirt, and Trousers , NOURA SULAIMAN 108-121_VISION_VOL2_MENSWEAR STORY.indd 11921/04/2024 20:17120 Vest and Tunic, RBA NEW YORK 108-121_VISION_VOL2_MENSWEAR STORY.indd 12018/04/2024 22:28121 Shirts and Trousers, HAJRUSS. Shoes, STYLIST’S OWN 108-121_VISION_VOL2_MENSWEAR STORY.indd 12118/04/2024 22:28122 CREATIVE DIRECTORS Marne Schwartz & Dané Stojanovic PHOTOGRAPHY Niklas Haze STYLIST Juanjose Mouko Nsue WORDS Sujata Assomull A Vision Unveiled 122-127_VISION_VOL2_STATE OF FASHION-MS.indd 12221/04/2024 20:18123 With the countdown to Vision 2030 well underway, The State of Fashion in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia Report 2023 charts the success of the nation’s designers from desert sands to international runways Saudi fashion has reached an infl ection point. In July 2023, a global spotlight shone bright on the country’s creative talents when Ashi Studio, founded by Saudi Arabian designer Mohammed Ashi, became the fi rst couturier from the Gulf region to join the prestigious Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode and be a part of the offi cial calendar of Paris Haute Couture Week. While it was a proud moment for the Arab fashion industry, it is just one example of Saudi Arabia’s commitment to its homegrown creative talent. Days before Ashi’s debut on the offi cial Paris Haute Couture runway, the Saudi Fashion Commission unveiled the inaugural edition of The State of Fashion in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia 2023 report at Paris Fashion Week Men’s. Data-backed insights on the future of the local fashion industry were presented, and one of the key fi ndings was that “Saudi Arabia’s domestic fashion industry will contribute strongly towards the realisation of the medium-term Vision 2030 strategic goals.” In 2016, His Royal Highness Prince Mohammed bin Salman bin Abdulaziz, Crown Prince and Prime Minister of Saudi Arabia, unveiled his ambitious Vision 2030 mandate, aimed at diversifying the nation’s economy to reduce its dependence on oil, which currently accounts for 80 per cent of its GDP. Developing creative talent, public-service sectors, and tourism is key to shifting this dependence. This comprehensive blueprint comprises three pillars: Ambitious Nation, Thriving Economy, and Vibrant Society. The Ministry of Culture of Saudi Arabia – comprising 11 specialised commissions – was established in 2018 to fulfi l this mandate. Under the leadership of Burak Çakmak – former Dean of New York’s prestigious Parsons School of Design, who now serves as CEO of the Fashion Commission – fashion was identifi ed as a pivotal industry in achieving Vision 2030’s goals. Burak highlights that, “Saudi fashion bridges all three pillars, leveraging the vast domestic market, strategic geographic location, and the rich tapestry of Saudi history and heritage.” The Fashion Commission is not taking a one-size-fi ts-all approach but working on building a strong fashion voice rooted in the Kingdom, while it looks to take the Saudi story global by drawing on the country’s strengths. FASHIONING A CREATIVE ECONOMY Honayda Serafi , whose eponymous label Honayda is a contemporary brand known for drawing from her heritage, stocks at stores in London, Kuwait, and even Panama, and has dressed Naomi Campbell, Adriana Lima, and Priyanka Chopra. The designer explains, “The Fashion Commission is creating a fashion sector and is the main body behind building this 360-degree industry, proving the great potential of the local talent and the contribution that this sector can bring to the Saudi economy.” As the report reveals, “The Kingdom’s fashion industry contributed 1.4 per cent of GDP and employed 230,000 people.” Its potential to become both a major revenue maker and employer can only become stronger. Globally, the fashion industry is estimated to employ 430 million people, or 12.6 per cent of the global workforce, as found in the report, which only shows the potential contribution fashion can bring to the overall economy of the Kingdom. Saudi Arabia cannot be ignored, as the report highlights – the nation is the world’s 18th largest economy with an evaluated GDP per capita of US$27,941 in 2023, making it one of the wealthiest nations in the world. Honayda believes homegrown talents need to draw on Saudi’s purchasing power. “Saudi Arabians have signifi cant purchasing power in fashion; more than 50 per cent of the Gulf Cooperation Council’s (GCC’s) luxury expenditure is from Saudi. We have a great infl uence internationally, from which local talents can benefi t.” Often when international luxury stores and platforms are looking to target a regional consumer base, they look to work with designers from that area. Another example of a creative who has captured the international imagination is Yousef Akbar, a designer based between Australia and Saudi Arabia known for his contemporary evening wear collections worn by a coterie of celebrities, such as Nicole Kidman, Sharon Stone, Alicia Keys and Rita Ora. He declares that the recognition of Saudi talent was “long overdue” and believes the Fashion Commission’s efforts to bring in global experts will help Saudi designers achieve their potential. Honayda adds, “We are witnessing a shift in the global fashion scene, where buyers are more and more leaning towards niche and distinguished designers as they strive to offer exclusively curated pieces to their clientele.” SAUDI BRANDS IN THE MAKING A key endeavour from the Fashion Commission that have gained traction in the past year include the Saudi 100 Brands initiative. This mentoring programme is aimed at supporting designers and providing them with opportunities to participate in global fashion events such as WHITE Milano, a leading platform for emerging designers to connect with buyers; the opportunity to participate in showrooms at Paris Fashion Week and Men’s Paris Haute Couture Week; and Fashion Futures, an annual conference focused on developing the industry. By hosting opportunities for conversation, mentoring, and exposure to global talents and events, the Fashion Commission is giving Saudi talent a head start. As the report states, “This is where the biggest opportunity lies: connecting the people in the fashion industry to international institutions and vocational training programmes with a deep understanding of the global fashion system. By doing this, we can rapidly develop a full value chain locally.” Burak continues, “In 2023 alone, Saudi brands have captured global audiences at Paris and Milan Fashion Weeks, attracting buyers, investors, and fashion executives from around the world.” By fostering an environment where innovative voices can fl ourish, the Saudi Fashion Commission’s goal to support the country’s talent has implications for the whole region, with the potential to make a signifi cant impact on the global fashion scene. FROM CONSUMERS TO CREATORS The appetite for fashion within Saudi Arabia is monumental and has captured the attention of luxury brands worldwide. Over the past year, international luxury players, such as Dolce&Gabbana and Van Cleef & Arpels, have hosted global events in the Kingdom. The recently unveiled The State of Fashion Report in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia 2023 by the Fashion Commission revealed that KSA spent US$7.3 billion on imported fashion goods. This underscores the enormous potential that awaits Saudi creatives within their own borders. “Trade data shows a promising 122-127_VISION_VOL2_STATE OF FASHION-MS.indd 12319/04/2024 07:42124 A NEW VOICE IN THE GLOBAL MARKET The Fashion Commission is rapidly establishing design and product development capabilities. The State of Fashion Report in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia 2023 showcased the Fashion Commission’s role in amplifying the sector’s growth. The report’s data fi nds that fashion sales are expected to surge by 48 per cent from 2021 to 2025. Ayah notes, “Saudi Arabia is positioned to undergo a remarkable transformation into a thriving creator economy, a journey already set in motion through the visionary objectives of Vision 2030. This transformation is substantiated by several compelling factors.” These fi gures are bound to encourage international players to keep a close eye on Saudi talent. The Fashion Commission is focused on building a resilient and future- proof fashion industry, which starts with education, as evidenced by initiatives like collaborating with the King Abdullah University of Science and Technology to explore sustainable solutions in textiles and fashion. With 12 universities offering fashion programmes, Saudi’s creative community is poised for success. Chalhoub Group’s Ayah Yamani notes, “With the introduction and expansion of design education programmes within the Kingdom, we are witnessing the emergence of designers who not only have the creative fl air but also the academic grounding to make a lasting impact.” The Fashion Commission has also started talks with educational establishments such as Institut Français de la Mode. Burak insists, “Our biggest asset is a young, well-educated population engaged with technology. We need to provide them with access to the full fashion value chain and turn creativity into actual fashion products.” Having a fashion system led by Gen-Z creators is set to ensure a forward-thinking design community in Saudi Arabia. The backbone of any design process is production, which is often a challenge for young designers. The report acknowledges, “Long production lead times and large minimum purchase orders from Eastern sources of supply are recognised as highly problematic and antithetical to sustainable competitiveness in the domestic market. Developing Quick Response manufacturing and associated supply chain capabilities in the Kingdom consequently represents a major opportunity within the fashion value chain.” The Fashion Commission has identifi ed the adoption of Industry 4.0 technologies (the integration of intelligent digital technologies into manufacturing and industrial processes) within the domestic supply chain as a strategic priority. Moreover, Saudi’s leading position as a global oil producer presents an opportunity for the local fashion industry. The report states, “The Kingdom’s leading position in the global petrochemicals sector creates opportunities for synthetic fi bre and associated yarn and fabric production, as well as the supply of dyes and inks for the dyeing and printing operations that sit at the interface of the assembly of fi nished fashion products and the materials they use. This represents a distinct competitive advantage for local fashion production, especially with the advanced materials science in Industry 4.0.” In the long term, Saudi Arabia could evolve into a global manufacturing hub. Burak elaborates, “We are preparing to launch our Product Development Studio, which will opportunity for import substitution, as well as an opportunity for local brands to export into the wealthy GCC economies. This is especially true for competitive categories such as abayas, thobes, and jewellery,” the report continues. Noted Saudi menswear brand and the largest thobe maker in KSA, AlShiaka, is cited as an example of domestic growth. By adding contemporary elements to the thobe and by understanding the evolving market and introducing complementary products, the brand’s CEO, Hussain bin Saleem, reveals in the report, “The thobe market is rapidly developing in Saudi Arabia, with both traditional and contemporary fashion trends shaping its trajectory. At the same time, we see major opportunities for traditional trends to shape the contemporary fashion market. The increase in clothing production can only have a positive impact on the Saudi economy.” Saudi’s own Bedouin culture has a rich history of textile, weaving, and crafts tradition for young designers to take inspiration from. As the report mentions, “The Saudi state has existed for three centuries, allowing for a deep and diverse cultural heritage.” It found that what makes Saudi’s creatives unique is that they are “embedding facets of deep cultural heritage in their pieces while also bringing their designs very much into the 21st century.” This approach has already encouraged regional players such as Chalhoub Group – a leading distributor of luxury and creator of luxury experiences within the Middle East – to look at Saudi talents. Through The Fashion Lab programme, it’s providing targeted support to emerging Saudi fashion brands, granting them access to a broader audience, prominent retail spaces, and essential growth resources. Ayah Yamani, Chalhoub Group’s KSA Group Ambassador and Strategic Manager, observes, “The Arab consumer is now looking to support its own talent.” However, the report also highlights that Saudi consumers often prefer “internationally sourced designs” due to supply chain issues and a lack of awareness of Saudi-made products. The Fashion Commission is committed to overcoming these challenges and promoting homegrown talent both at home, in the region, and globally. As designer Yousef Akbar points out, “We are still in the building phase; we need to establish a strong foundation fi rst, then we need to build on it.” This exposure to the best of international brands and a youthful population curious to know more about their own heritage gives Saudi designers a distinct DNA to build upon. Ayah Yamani observes, “This innovative approach holds a particular appeal for younger demographics, who seek fashion that marries global trends with cultural roots.” While Saudi Arabia boasts both a rich textile heritage and historic geographic importance as a vital port on the trading routes connecting the West to the East, its contemporary fashion industry was in its nascency until recently. But this may be its greatest advantage. Burak elaborates, “Because we are building this sector from scratch, we have the unique opportunity to do things differently, building on global best practices, sewn together with Saudi innovation.” 122-127_VISION_VOL2_STATE OF FASHION-MS.indd 12419/04/2024 07:42125 122-127_VISION_VOL2_STATE OF FASHION-MS.indd 12519/04/2024 07:42126 122-127_VISION_VOL2_STATE OF FASHION-MS.indd 12619/04/2024 07:42127 enable Saudi designers to move from sketching to prototype quickly. It will be equipped with the latest technologies and machinery, such as laser cutting and 3D knitting.” Regarding retail and distribution, while mall development remains a focus, the Kingdom is also embracing disruptive and innovative approaches, including exploring the Metaverse as the next frontier in consumerism. The report highlights how brands like Zara and Uniqlo are using RFID (radio-frequency identifi cation) tags to track inventory and automate warehouses, enabling high stock turnover strategies. By sharing this knowledge with stakeholders, as Burak notes, it provides them with “the data and insights necessary to empower them to do business with us.” A WEALTH OF OPPORTUNITIES The report identifi es opportunities for Saudi designers to fi ll market gaps, particularly in the sportswear sector, which is expected to grow by 21 per cent by 2027. Additionally, the report highlights the potential for Saudi brands to export to wealthy GCC economies, especially in competitive categories such as abayas, thobes, and jewellery. Saudi Arabia’s strategic geographic position, reinforced by a free-trade agreement with GCC markets and a location conducive to trade with China and India, positions the nation to access both Western and Eastern markets. As Burak summarises, “We have a digital-fi rst opportunity, which could disrupt the retail market and provide Saudi designers with more access to potential consumers.” This burgeoning sportswear opportunity is driven by an increasing awareness of health and Saudi Arabia’s growing prominence in the global sports arena, having recently secured the bid to host the AFC Asian Games. The report also underscores how local government efforts to provide more health and sports facilities will propel the growth of the athleisure category. Burak adds, “As an increasing number of designers emerge alongside the Kingdom’s relentless pursuit of hosting sporting events, I would not be surprised if our domestic designs infl uence sporting apparel, and the two sectors come together.” Fashion seamlessly aligns with the Vision 2030 goals, especially considering the emphasis on tourism, which will drive shopping and encourage mall owners to open more points of sale. The report notes, “Shopping has been identifi ed as a key tourist activity in the Kingdom, with many tourists seeking apparel accessories when visiting.” The report highlights Chalhoub Group as a key player in retail, actively expanding its presence in Saudi Arabia. Ayah echoes this, pointing out, “At the heart of Vision 2030 lies the commitment to not only economic diversifi cation but also the celebration and amplifi cation of Saudi culture, making it resonate on the global stage.” Al Abdul Karim, a local retail player, is named as an example in the report, known for working with international brands while also launching its own private label brands, Blue Age and Al Rina. Abdullah Alabdulkarim, buying manager at Al Abdul Karim, remarks, “Blue Age has been a huge success for us. Its customers are looking for both quality and fashionability, inspiring the brand to continuously improve both its value and fashion position. This has provided us with an invaluable platform for regional market growth.” Traditionally renowned for its evening wear, the Gulf region was further bolstered by Ashi Studio’s debut at Paris Couture Week, reaffi rming its position as a producer of high-quality work and giving Saudi design a distinctive voice. Although the report recognises bridalwear as another area with high potential, the diffi culty in pigeonholing Saudi talent means international buyers are likely to be open to looking for emerging talent across all categories. Indeed, with such a young population, it’s easy to imagine a streetwear star to emerge from Saudi Arabia. WHITE Milano once again collaborated with Saudi Brands 100 at the September edition of Milan Fashion Week, where 40 homegrown brands will participate in the global trade event. Brenda Bellei, CEO of WHITE Milano, praises the unique qualities of Saudi fashion, including high quality, attention to detail, sustainability, and the expression of femininity. She observes that international buyers have turned their attention to Saudi Arabia, impressed by the presence of numerous brands with high-quality products, showcasing Saudi Arabia’s profound creativity. She points out, “No one before knew that Saudi Arabia was the cradle of such strong creativity.” LEAVE NO TRACE Saudi Arabia has declared its commitment to transitioning towards net zero by 2030 as part of the Saudi Green Initiative. While the high-consumption Gulf region has been relatively slow to embrace sustainability, the Fashion Commission is keen to accelerate Saudi Arabia’s sustainability efforts and make it a core competence within the industry. Burak highlights, “While sustainability is a core focus for everyone in the Kingdom, including the Commission and our designers, over the last two years, we have brought in international experts focused on sustainable design. We are infusing their knowledge into all fashion education, including masterclasses and workshops that we hold during our annual Fashion Futures event.” The report showcases examples of brands embracing sustainability, such as Abadia, which stopped producing seasonal collections and instead releases designs in drops, working with luxury deadstock materials and end-of-roll remnant fabric from garment manufacturing to maximise resources. Any leftover fabric is repurposed into creative accessories, packaging, and toys. The report also highlights thobe maker Lomar’s planet-friendly practice of offering a complimentary pack of seeds with every product sold, as well as repair services, and Al Abdul Karim’s use of better cotton and recycled yarns. The report indicates that 84 per cent of Saudi consumers view sustainability as important and outlines examples of supply chain shifts and blended digital models to promote sustainability. TOMORROW, THE WORLD Saudi Arabia’s fashion industry is on a transformative journey, driven by its commitment to Vision 2030’s goals and a growing emphasis on creativity, sustainability, and innovation. The report highlights the sector’s immense potential, positioning Saudi designers to leave their mark on the global fashion landscape. Previously, countries such as Denmark, Japan, and Korea have been able to establish themselves as international players, fostering fashion-industry growth with the strength of their homegrown creative talent. Among the hurdles Saudi designers face is global supply chain challenges and customers being less driven by seasons but still wanting great buy-now-wear-now products. These are all points the Fashion Commission has taken into consideration and that this report highlights, demonstrating Saudi Arabia means business when it comes to fashion. 122-127_VISION_VOL2_STATE OF FASHION-MS.indd 12719/04/2024 07:42Next >