< PreviousMONTBLANC X FERRARI; MALE GROOMING; CANALI CAT; CROMFORD’S CALLING; WOLF PACK. atelier TRME_28-29_Atelier Opener_11914743.indd 2812/01/2022 09:33:56 AMTRME_28-29_Atelier Opener_11914743.indd 2912/01/2022 09:34:05 AM30 IMAGES: SUPPLIED TRME_30-33_MontblancXFerrari_11917792.indd 3012/01/2022 09:51:47 AM31 To mark the release of the newest writing instrument by Montblanc, the Montblanc Great Characters Enzo Ferrari, The Rake travelled to Modena, Italy, to speak to Montblanc CEO Nicolas Baretzki, about what the new partnership means to him, and the future of the luxury maison. Enzo Ferrari was obviously quite a unique character. What particularly stands out to you in terms of him aligning with the Montblanc brand? You know, I think the very first thing that I would have in mind is that he was such a passionate man. And I think when you think about Montblanc, when you think about the creations, and the history of the maison, it was first about a passionate person, or persons, because we had founders. It was about having not just a dream. It was more having the capacity to have a vision of what you could create. And I think what is exciting with Enzo is you’re starting with a person whose father had a workshop, and was very much into mechanics, who became a great race driver. Who wanted to go one step further, who created Scuderia. Then, he created a company and the first car won a race after only a few months. And then that went on to become the legacy and today, what Ferrari is in the world. And that’s the same at Montblanc. It’s exactly the same. Rather than one person, we had three founders here at Montblanc. It was three very different founders having an amazing, not idea, but experience while travelling to the US, and discovering a new patent and having this visionary idea of, “Let’s make it something about performance, about innovation”, and that’s how it all started. Aside from innovation, it was about excellence, about performance. And I think that’s why... We never know it for sure, but that’s probably why they created that name, Montblanc. Because for them it was the peak of the mountain in Europe that was excellent. So again, a very close story. So both brands encapsulate a sense of limitless possibility – is that something you would agree with? Definitely. It ties in with what Enzo was saying. You know, when he was talking about passion, he said that you could not describe your passion. You can just live it. And I think that’s exactly what I love about Enzo’s character is this story of, “I’m part of it, you know? I’m living it, I’m enjoying it”. That’s why it was quite discrete because he was living his own passion. It was not about, you know, saying, “I’m the best.” It was really his passion and wanting to go to the very end of it and always, yeah, always pushing boundaries. Always going for the next amazing performance or innovation. Please can you tell us a little bit about the process that went into creating this new collection? First of all we try to really understand everything about the character. So it’s first, really getting deep into research and asking the questions that will help us create this product. Such as, who is Enzo Ferrari? What does he stand for? What were his key moments? And how can I translate it into a design? That’s the number one factor. And so it’s firstly about the storytelling. Next, we ask the question ‘how can we bring something new in terms of innovation?’ In terms of craftsmanship or the way of doing something on the pen that makes it unique. And that makes it challenging for us. And what was exciting in that collaboration, is the fact that it was not just about Montblanc, but it was really about collaborating in the very sense of the word in terms of design. We worked with Flavio Manzoni, the head of design at Ferrari, to make sure that the two maisons are represented through the project. Flavio was very much involved in the development. So that’s why it was also exciting for us. Because you’re also talking to a huge star in the world of automobiles So, it’s really the two worlds connecting, first of all. There are few names in the world which can compete with Ferrari and Montblanc. For their latest writing collection, Montblanc has taken inspiration from the legendary founder of the Italian marque, Enzo Ferrari A TALE OF TWO MAISONS by emma hodgson “For Great Character limited editions it really is about the person. Which is what brought us to Enzo Ferrari” TRME_30-33_MontblancXFerrari_11917792.indd 3112/01/2022 04:36:10 PM32 Previously, Montblanc has championed mainly political figures and people within the creative arts through the Great Characters series. What made you branch out to motorsports for this edition? For us, it’s firstly about the characters. And afterwards, these characters exist in the context of politics, music, art or the world of automobiles, and it’s almost secondary. It can be very exciting, but for Great Character limited editions, it is really first about the man or the woman. And that’s what brings us to Enzo Ferrari. And it’s a very interesting way to approach Ferrari via the founder, not by the brand. And then of course, the life of Ferrari is reflected in these products. And of course it interlinks afterwards with the marque. Ferrari recently launched their first fashion collection. Can we expect to see further partnerships between the two houses? Perhaps through your leather goods or anything else? To be honest? No. No, because as I said, this collaboration was really about using the kind of ethos, or the origin of the mission, which is very much about the writing instrument. And I’m not trying to do everything, you know? And I think it’s not just a partnership and then do a bit of leather, a bit of this, and then a watch. Yes, it’s not a franchise. Exactly. And it’s first of all, bringing the two maisons together at the same level. So I think for this, I want to do something that is long-lasting. But for sure, having started the collaboration with Ferrari, and as I said, starting with the founder, I think that definitely gives inspiration to go further into other projects with that. So, it will be more than a one year collaboration. That’s for sure. Collaborations have been popular in luxury and fashion for quite a few years now. Why do you think they remain so relevant today? I think there are many reasons for it. And if I talk about Montblanc, and why I believe collaborations are essential, it’s because it gives you either the ability, you know, to push the team to do something exceptional. And when you work on a collaboration for the writing instrument, because it’s really, as I said, it’s part of our DNA. It’s part of our history. And when you have the design team of Montblanc discussing ideas with the design team of Ferrari, it for sure elevates and pushes everyone to deliver their best. So, I think that’s a great way to deliver an amazing piece. Again, back to craftsmanship, back to innovation, back to creativity, back to storytelling. That’s the best way to push the whole team. And I think it elevates the brand, it elevates if you have the right partnership. And I think there is also a big interest for our clients because they love the stories and they love all the details that are behind those limited edition pieces. But that’s only one part of the collaboration. Sometimes collaboration, like we have done, is also a way as we are, as I said, in that junction of the business and the lifestyle. I’m not in the fashion industry for sure, but we are between business and lifestyle. It allows you also to be a little bit at the edge of a territory. TRME_30-33_MontblancXFerrari_11917792.indd 3212/01/2022 04:36:23 PM33 TRME_30-33_MontblancXFerrari_11917792.indd 3311/01/2022 11:42:02 AM34 According to several studies, an increasing number of men are having cosmetic procedures TRME_34-35_Mens Grooming_11919414.indd 3411/01/2022 11:49:09 AM35 The multi-billion dollar cosmetic treatment industry used to conjure up images of the Beverly Hills set with tightly pulled face lifts and women with distinctly fake assets. Fast-forward two decades into the new century and the idea is about as outdated as the Millenium Bug. Long gone are the days of invasive surgery (well, it still happens - it’s just losing ground to its less invasive done-in-a- lunch-hour young sister, called “tweakments”). The phrase, coined around 2014 refers to small non-surgical treatments (most involving a needle or laser) that can change someone’s appearance, with little to no recovery time. What’s perhaps even more interesting however, is the rise in men partaking in these treatments. While the early noughties saw the rise of Botox parties (gatherings where women would enjoy a drink with friends, and a Botox technician for treatments), the early 2020s have seen the rise of men starting to take part in cosmetic tweaks - from teeth whitening to filler treatment. In the UK for example, the country saw a 70 percent rise in video consultation requests for procedures in 2020 - a third of which were from men. “There are many reasons why we’ve seen an increase in the number of men attending consultations. But one of them is the ease with which the tweaks are done. Many of them can be done in a lunch hour, are non-invasive and leave little to no tell-tell signs that a change has been made - such as visible bruising or stitches. It’s an easy quick enhancement and I think that appeals to the male market,” explains Dr Kayle, a plastic surgeon working in Dubai, who has been described as the city’s ‘Godfather of non-surgical treatments’. Specializing in face treatments, Kayle uses a technique hailed down from Renaissance Art which applies to both men and women called the Golden Ratio to help decide what “tweaks” - if any - need to be made. “Facial symmetry is regarded by many as vital to beauty as it adheres to the Golden Ratio, but asymmetry is natural and perfectly symmetrical faces are not always the most beautiful. In fact, it is the combination of proportion, shape, and volume that is more important than facial symmetry in terms of true beauty and in many cases asymmetry can actually create a uniqueness to someone’s beauty,” Dr Kayle continues. “Certain asymmetries can easily be addressed with certain minimally invasive treatments or even fillers, which can be administered to add volume to one side of the cheek or jaw or correct minor nasal asymmetries. Soft tissue fillers are no longer just ‘line fillers.’ These products are now more appropriately used for facial volume restoration and enhancement. Botox is used by some surgeons to help reduce the prominence of the jaw or raise an eyebrow that sits too low.” So what is the reason for the increasing number of men having “tweakments”? Several studies have documented social media as a factor. However other reasons particularly for men include ageism in the workplace and maintaining a competitive edge in their career. In a study conducted by the Huffington Post, physicians said that there was a significant increase in men aged 35 to 65 having Botox, for career related reasons. “They’re simply having more procedures done because they want to maintain the competitiveness in an increasingly ageist workplace,” Dr Daniel Mills, president of the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, told to the website. Popular areas include around the eyes, forehead and eyebrows. While hair transplants have also seen a significant uptake in the male market in recent years. Meanwhile others have cited an increasing dissolution of “men’s” and “women’s” spheres in regards the fashion and beauty industries. Regardless of the “why”, it certainly seems like it is a trend that is here to stay for the foreseeable future. drkayleclinic.com The Rake investigates the growing “tweakment” trend in men’s cosmetics industry A GENTLEMAN NEVER TELLS by emma hodgson IMAAGE: NOJAN NAMDAR “Dr Kayle has been described as Dubai’s ‘Godfather of non-surgical treatments.” TRME_34-35_Mens Grooming_11919414.indd 3511/01/2022 11:49:20 AMCanali’s collaboration with the Chinese label 8ON8 is a tribute to the life-enhancing effects of travel. And for the august Italian brand, it marks a journey into exciting new territory. COOL FOR CATS by nick scott 36 How ‘smart’ Marco Polo was — that is, in terms of his cerebral acuity — is debatable. On the one hand, the Venetian explorer and his family foresaw the overthrow of Crusader rule in late 13th century Constantinople, and accordingly diverted their commercial efforts towards the jewellery scene at the western reaches of the Mongol Empire; on the other, he mistook rhinos for unicorns. As for how ‘smart’ the adventurer was in the sartorial sense, a surely hyper-romanticised interpretation exists in the form of Netflix’s globe-spanning dramatisation Marco Polo. The Oscar- winning costume designer Tim Yip (of Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon fame) delved into museum archives, history books, films, and the knowledge pool of various Venetian tailors when fine-tuning the character’s heavily dashing, if occasionally Star Wars-esque, wardrobe. Now, though, the mysterious figure who spent more than two decades in the service of Kublai Khan is, just shy of eight centuries after his death, making an impact on the menswear scene all over again: this time via a recent Italian- Chinese autumn/winter collaboration between the Lombardi- based label Canali and 8ON8, a brand founded in 1997 in Shanghai by the award-winning designer Li Gong. 8ON8’s fashion-focused approach to dressing puts a fascinating spin on the highly sartorial, ultra-tailored approach to menswear practised by the perspicacious designers in Lombardi. So where does Marco Polo fit into all this? Well, included in the capsule — which features ready-to-wear apparel as well as accessories and shoes — are several pieces designed around an anthropomorphic beast by the name of the Cafra Cat. (‘Cafra’ is a portmanteau of Canali and fratelli, the Italian word for brothers.) The stylish feline was introduced in the same year — 1953 — that Canali began producing raincoats with innovative materials, and he appeared in many a magazine advertisement clad in Noël Coward-esque loungewear, bow-tie and bowler hat. The cat graces sweaters and luggage in this collection, and represents Canali’s journey from Italy to the Far East. As such, the character is inspired by an explorer who, while unlikely to have been the first European to take in the charms of the east, was the first to have his experiences documented (by Rustichello of Pisa, who took pen to parchment when imprisoned with Polo after they found themselves on the wrong side of a scrap between Genoa and Venice). The moggy in question exudes character and charm in a way that manages to embody the distinct design ethos of the protagonists involved. And yet this capsule collection represents something of an off-piste venture for Canali, who have earned stalwart status as artisanal suit makers whose aim is to endorse the ‘made in Italy’ craft concept. For those late to the party — if that’s you, we’re sorry you’ve missed out — Canali were founded in 1934 in Triuggio by Giacomo and Giovanni Canali (the firm remains family owned to this day). In 1953, Giovanni’s sons, Giuseppe, Genesio and Eugenio, carried out a company restructure to create Fratelli Canali S.p.A. — and with it Cafra, and thus the modish moggy seen in the new capsule collection. A decade followed during which the company sought innovative ways to improve the raincoat using cotton, wool and silk, while also retaining an emphasis on taking traditional Italian tailoring methods to new levels. The brand’s made-to-measure service, Su Misura, is renowned for the way it accentuates the best of the wearer’s physique, and has caught on all over the world (their suiting made Barack Obama look like the Most Powerful Man on Earth on the very evening he assumed that mantle). The brand introduced casualwear (the ‘Exclusive’ segment) in the late 1990s, and its Exclusive collection last year saw plenty of casual pieces added to the company’s repertoire, as per the sartorial zeitgeist, but the 8ON8 capsule is the most vivid expression of casual/formal fluidity the brand has produced to date. Its power, according to the President and Chief Executive, Stefano Canali, is in the coming together of two sartorial cultures. “I’ve seen multiple collaboration projects. However, in the luxury sector, I feel the potential and possibilities of Chinese designer forces are still to be fully explored,” he says. “We’ve had this idea for a long time, and now, with the accumulated knowledge of Li Gong and his creations, I’m confident his different approach will bring new ideas to the luxury menswear world.” Li Gong says: “Beyond China’s and Italy’s different approaches to clothes, I see there is a cultural commonality rooted in how we anticipate the roles of clothes in men’s lifestyles. This capsule will be a reflection of my personal perspective and thinking to modern luxury menswear, and I’m very happy for a brand as profound as Canali to embrace a Chinese perspective.” Perhaps the Cafra Cat, unlike Marco Polo, has found his unicorn. “In the luxury design sector, the potential and possibilities of Chinese designer forces are still to be fully explored.” TRME_36-39_Unstitched Canali Cafra Cat_11914742.indd 3630/12/2021 01:23:58 PMUNSTITCHED 37 The Cafra Cat, Canali’s anthropomorphic icon, was born in 1953. TRME_36-39_Unstitched Canali Cafra Cat_11914742.indd 3730/12/2021 01:24:07 PMNext >