< Previous108 Hamilton, the watchmakers founded in America in the 19th century, deploy their new bronze Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm. ON MANOEUVRES by felix scholz Everyone loves a watch that fulfils a purpose. Dive watches made to conquer depths that we will never reach. Chronographs intended to time laps we will never race. Even dress watches, paired with tuxedos we rarely wear. We find intense joy in the specialised and the niche. That’s all well and good, but there’s an even greater joy to be found in the quotidian — a comfortable, reliable ritual that makes up so much of our daily, ordinary life. The ordinary is calming and has a distinct charm. It’s also a life that calls for a particular sort of watch — an everyday companion, proven and reliable. This is exactly where the genre of watch known as the field watch fits. Hard wearing, robust and functional, the field watch typically doesn’t boast the bells and whistles of more specialised sports watches, but it doesn’t need them. Field watches have been around in one form or another for more than a century, and they have proven themselves in some of the harshest environments imaginable. While many brands have created their own take on a field watch, one name stands above them all, and that is Hamilton. Before we learn about the brand’s latest Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm, let’s find out where the field watch was born. Exploring the field There are a few contenders for the title of ‘first’ wristwatch, be that the timepiece commissioned by a Neapolitan queen or the one made for the pioneering Brazilian aviator. In truth, these singular examples did little to move the needle of popular taste when it came to moving watches from pockets to the wrist. The necessities of modern war drove that shift. In the first world war and other conflicts, an accurate and rugged watch could be a literal lifesaver. Of course, this style of watch, born on the field of battle, didn’t end there. The utility of the wristwatch was proven, and as thousands of veterans returned home wearing them, the era of the wristwatch had begun. But beyond firming up the future of the wristwatch, the defining qualities of a military field watch — legibility, reliability and durability — had been clearly established. More importantly, it quickly became evident that these attributes weren’t just for the armed forces. Outdoorsmen, explorers and backyard adventurers found uses for these hard-wearing watches. The field watch was a proven hit with civilians and service members, and watch brands paid attention, with many making their own version of this practical timekeeper. From Lancaster to the world When it comes to field watches, the name of Hamilton looms large. Founded in 1892 in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, the heart of American watchmaking, Hamilton’s watchmaking played an important role during the second world war. In 1942, Hamilton ceased all consumer-focused production to concentrate on the needs of the armed forces because, more than ever before, timekeeping mattered in war. Hamilton played their role brilliantly, delivering more than one million timepieces during the war. The trying conditions of wartime production required the watchmaker to innovate, developing new lubricants and their own non-metallic alloy for use in hairsprings, Elinvar Extra. Of particular significance were the 10,000-plus marine chronometers the brand produced. These gimbal-mounted, high- grade pocket-watch mechanisms were primarily used for naval navigation. In a hostile environment, when radio signals could be intercepted, navigation by dead reckoning was the only viable option. That required an accurate chronometer, and the ability of Hamilton to produce their incredibly accurate chronometers at scale had a material effect on the American war effort. Admiral Arleigh Burke, chief of staff to vice-admiral Marc Mitscher during the battle for Leyte Gulf, wrote: “The ships of the 3rd and 7th Fleets that fought at Leyte Gulf were absolutely dependent upon Hamilton Marine Chronometers for the accurate time that was essential to successful naval and air operations. This United States victory, in one of the greatest naval battles ever fought, marked the beginning of the end of world war II.” So well regarded was Hamilton’s contribution to the war effort that, between 1943 and 1945, they were awarded with the Army-Navy ‘E’ award five times. This award was a symbol of unparalleled excellence in production. Of the 85,000 companies contributing to the war effort, fewer than five per cent would receive this distinction. Hamilton’s production TRME_108-111_Hamilton_11914737.indd 10812/01/2022 04:37:49 PM109 TEMPORAL With its improved mechanical movement, sapphire crystal and a bronze case in need of a patina, the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Bronze could be the greatest Hamilton Khaki yet. TRME_108-111_Hamilton_11914737.indd 10912/01/2022 04:38:06 PM110 included less specialised pieces, such as the accurate wristwatches supplied to the U.S. Army Ordnance Department, which, like most military-issued watches, was powered by the brand’s calibre 987 and its variants, and the standard-issue military wristwatch, which, with its black dial, luminous hours and well-built case, fit the mould of a field watch. From the field to the jungle It is a different watch, from a different war, that serves as the template for the Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm. It is a watch made according to the military specifications laid down in 1964, known as MIL-W-46374, which listed the requirements for the general issue military watch, requiring an economical and mass-produced timepiece. This document, more than any other, effectively codified and standardised the modern field watch. It wasn’t long before these watches started being issued in bulk by quartermasters across the American sphere of influence as American combat troops entered the Vietnam War from 1965, with more than half a million in theatre by 1969. The watch that Hamilton made for these GIs was a 33mm time-only watch with a clear dial layout and notable 24-hour inner scale. Simple and effective, like the Hamilton watches worn by the generation before them, these watches continued into civilian life. Not just on the wrists of returned soldiers, they were also sold in army surplus stores and by companies like L.L. Bean and Orvis through the 1980s and nineties. At this point, the watch’s identity was well established as the Hamilton Khaki Field watch. The Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm in bronze In 2019, Hamilton, now part of The Swatch Group, took the field watch back to its roots with a remake of the popular Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm collection, a direct descendant of the military watches of the 1960s, albeit with some welcome modern twists. Today we get the latest evolution of Hamilton’s bestselling model. Of course, there’s the black dial with luminous triangles on the hour, both 12- and 24-hour time scales, and hash marks for the minutes. The white hands are also luminous, with beige Super-LumiNova to match the dial. The crystal, unlike its Vietnam-era ancestors, is hard-wearing sapphire, virtually scratch-proof. The movement is the unique H-50, a hand wound mechanical with a solid 80 hours of power reserve. It’s wonderful that Hamilton have stayed true to the legacy of the field watch by opting to use a manual movement. Naturally there are automatic watches in the brand’s catalogue as well, but for this unabashed nostalgia piece, the hand winder is appropriate and appreciated. The lack of rotor keeps the case slim, too, at 9.6mm tall, perfectly in proportion with the 38mm width. The real talking point about this case is the material. Bronze, an ancient alloy with great corrosion resistance and the tendency to develop a patina unique to its wearer and the environment it’s in, is a popular material in watch cases. Of course, it also makes sense in the context of a military- inspired watch, as bronze is a metal commonly used for military decorations and medals. The warm tones and charm of the alloy certainly synergise with the world-weary aesthetic of the Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm beautifully. What’s more, the titanium caseback and 20mm leather NATO strap ensure that the watch won’t leave any patina on your skin, which is a bonus. This latest step in the long and winding journey of Hamilton’s field watches manages to look back at the model’s rich past while striding into its exciting future. While the adventures you might take the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Bronze on are likely a little less extreme than those of previous generations, the watch still lives up to the rigorous standards and reputation of the field watch. In fact, with its improved mechanical movement, sapphire crystal and a bronze case in need of a patina, this could well be the greatest Hamilton Khaki yet. Add to this the price, of $980, and you’ve got a watch that isn’t just made for adventure, but asking for one. HAMILTON KHAKI FIELD MECHANICAL BRONZE MOVEMENT Manual winding calibre H-50; 80-hour power reserve FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, seconds and 24-hour display CASE 38mm; bronze; water resistant to 50m STRAP Brown calf leather NATO with titanium pin buckle PRICE $980 TRME_108-111_Hamilton_11914737.indd 11010/01/2022 10:41:29 AM111 TEMPORAL The titanium caseback and 20mm leather NATO strap ensure that the watch won’t leave any patina on your skin. TRME_108-111_Hamilton_11914737.indd 11110/01/2022 10:41:34 AMTRME_062_112-113_Compendium Opener_11914155.indd 11210/01/2022 10:37:40 AMFERRARI’S UNDERSTATED ELEGANCE; NEW HOTELS OF NOTE; PORSCHE: ELECTRIC VIBES ONLY; DUBAI’S BEST RESTAURANTS compendium TRME_062_112-113_Compendium Opener_11914155.indd 11310/01/2022 10:37:50 AMFerrari’s design director, Flavio Manzoni describes the Roma as a “Formula One car in evening attire” and it’s easy to see why. This Ferrari gran turismo is inspired by the Italian capital – and particularly la dolce vita which Rome was known for in the 1950s and 60s. The two decades were known for being the heart of heady, glamorous and yet understated culture, with Sophia Loren and Federico Fellini leading the pack. Ipso facto it goes without saying that the Ferrari Roma is a beautiful machine.The stunningly proportioned car blends the marque’s latest design elements with ultra-high performance. History buffs may recognise some parts of the overall look and feel from some of Ferrari’s retro models too, (think the 250 GTO, 250 GT Lusso and the 612 Scaglietti for example). The design team also seem to have taken inspiration from Ferrari’s SF90 Stradale model for the long sloping front, while there are elements of the aerodynamic body which offer a nod to the 812 Superfast. Similar to the Portofino hard-top convertible, the Roma also features a front-engine layout, yet it’s aero-performance out masters that of its sibling, with a rear spoiler which is deployable and comes with Low Drag, Medium Downforce High Downforce options (and notably unmoved at speeds under 100kmph) and is also complemented by the fact the vortex generators are upfront, it’s also a significant 100kg lighter (perhaps due to the fact that it doesn’t have to carry the heavy framework of a convertible roof). Having said that, 70 percent of the components of the model are an entirely new design, and there are certainly some changes that keen- eyed Ferrari fans will notice with the Roma. For example, the rear lights do not have the same curve of previous designs, instead using new technology to give a more modest size and presence – arguably fitting in with the design’s overall Minimalist feel. There are changes to the front that Aficionados of the marque will notice too: namely a semi- blanked off mesh grill as well as LED headlights. These are all welcome design tweaks however, that make perfect sense with the over design ethos of the Roma. To be sure, one element which Ferrari decided to keep completely modern with the Roma is the 3.9-litre twin turbocharged V8 engine (the award-winning design can produce 612php at 7,500rpm). It’s an engine which is equally at home on the cross-emirate highways of the UAE as it is winding around the streets of Dubai Marina. Interestingly, inside the Roma, the Ferrari Styling Centre designers came with a new dual cockpit design, which involved the creation of two separate cells ( for the driver and passenger), the impact of which gives a more immersive feel when on the road – particularly at high speeds. The HMI also faced a complete redesign, leading to what Ferrari describes as a “major leap forward” in the car’s design. All of the car’s main commands are by haptic control meaning that the driver doesn’t have to move their hands from the wheel. Indeed, the Ferrari Roma might be sold as an entry point GT model, designed to compete with Porsche and Aston Martin (it’s anticipated that around 70 percent of buyers that invest in this model will be new to Ferrari). But it is also a model that is very close to the ethos of the company’s founder Enzo Ferrari. The late great racing driver first set up his company when he realised the demand – from albeit a small number of people who could afford to invest in, well, a Ferrari – who wanted GT models of his famous racing cars. The Ferrari Roma offers all of the beauty and thrill of driving one of Enzo’s race cars, in a body which provides timeless elegance. The Ferrari Roma V8 2+ coupé offers timeless beauty packed around an award-winning engine UNDERSTATED ELEGANCE by emma hodgson IMAGES: SUPPLIED “The Ferrari Roma V8 has been called ‘a Formula One car in evening attrie’ and it’s easy to see why” 114 COMPENDIUM TRME_114-115_Ferrari_11918473.indd 11412/01/2022 04:38:38 PM115 COMPENDIUM TRME_114-115_Ferrari_11918473.indd 11512/01/2022 11:58:57 AMIMAGES: SUPPLIED THE RAKE AWAY 116 COMPENDIUM TRME_116-123_Hotels_11920662.indd 11610/01/2022 02:45:45 PMDubai has one of the most powerful hospitality industries in the world, with the city currently hosting Expo 2020 that has only increased with incredible new offerings. The Rake takes a look at some of the best new properties in the Middle East’s leading city NEW HOTELS OF NOTE by emma hodgson raffl es.com/thepalm-dubai Raffles The Palm Dubai There are few hotels in Dubai which are as opulent as Raffles The Palm Dubai.The hotel is dripping in gold, the arrival team’s uniform is complete with hats, coats, tails and white gloves, meanwhile the hotel reception has seats which are made from dozens of live red roses which are replaced every few days. The hotel doesn’t do things on a modest scale in terms of size either. The hotel takes up a huge 25 acres of prime beachfront on Dubai’s Palm Jumeirah, while the property is also home to a huge 389 rooms and suites. What are the property’s highlights? In terms of Dubai bling there are not many which can rival this hotel. The hotel has more than 6,000 Swarovski Crystal chandeliers, while the property also has 70,000 pieces of furniture from luxury Italian label Francesco Molon. And how does the hotel ensure every piece is kept to five-star expectations? The property has its very own “furniture master” who tends to each piece to make sure everything is kept to a high standard. While visiting the property we recommend booking in at the award-winning Parisian Cinq Mondes Spa. Based in the belly of the hotel, the expansive 23-treatment room space is a haven for relaxation. Alongside the plethora of massage, facial and hammam options, there is also an indoor pool, yoga studio and large gym. Another popular feature at the hotel is its large outdoor pool and private beachfront. When The Rake visited the hotel, the area was busy with families and tourists visiting Dubai. For those with membership, the hotel has a VIP lounge on the top floor. Our tip - choose a table outside for breakfast and soak in views of the surrounding skyline from the spacious balcony. How do the rooms and suites fare? From the entry level room of 700 square-feet through to the hotel’s private villa collection (we’ll get to those in a minute) each room continues the theme of “decadence” with fine gold and silver leaf trims to many of the interiors. Bathrooms are decked out in imported Portuguese marble and each ensuite has its own sumptuous deep bathtub. If you stay in an entry level room (like The Rake did) you will have your own private balcony overlooking the Palm and Arabian Gulf. It also gives you the opportunity to get an up close look at the masterful finishings and detailing which has gone into the external architecture. The premium accommodation at the property is the resort’s villa collection. The villas are situated in the grounds of the hotel, separate from the main building and range from 10,225 square feet to 11,302 square feet. Each comes with their own private garden, beach, swimming pool and spa area. What are the restaurant offerings? While staying at Raffles The Palm, The Rake visited Le Jardin, the property’s all day dining restaurant. Like everything in the hotel - the restaurant is large to say the least. On offer is a wide ranging international buffet which is served three times a day, and changes for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The hotel is also home to an eclectic jazz bar called SOLA. The dimly lit bar feels straight out of New York City. Seating is arranged around a central stage where local and international talents play each night of the week. It’s a great spot to order a drink and catch up with friends. Overall experience Those who travel to Dubai to enjoy gold-dazzling opulence will love staying at Raffles The Palm. The regal property will impress those with a perchance for glitzy cars, glittering diamonds and theatrical interiors. “The hotel is dripping in gold, while the reception has chairs made out of live roses which are replaced weekly.” 117 COMPENDIUM TRME_116-123_Hotels_11920662.indd 11712/01/2022 04:39:10 PMNext >