< Previous30 Harper’s Bazaar Qatar Spring 2024 The NEWS You are known as an art lover, and even your education in Antwerp had an artistic immersion and method of teaching; is that where you draw your inspiration from, or does that come from other facets? What does every collection start off with? When you’re doing art history, you would look at diff erent mediums. And of course, the medium chosen to express my creative sensibility was fashion. Now, looking back, I say to every student: just enjoy it. It’s really a great opportunity for genesis of curiosity, of developing and, after 20 years, you can still go back to those refl ections to fl ourish further. I’m pro education, so I will always be rave to study, study, study! Where does my inspiration come from? I think when you’re a creative person, creativity is an expression, so you probably have a path which is absolutely intuitive and you don’t know where it’s coming from. Whereas, there is another part, which comes from what you’ve done in the past. Have I approached this subject, that technique, do I really want to challenge myself.’ In that there is defi nitely a refl ective part. Th en there’s another part, which comes from the communication with people, talking with people, looking at people’s work. Th at’s my little creative triangle. What can we look forward to in the upcoming season? We will have the Autumn/Winter 2024 show in March in Paris. It’s going to be a reassessment of what you saw in Spring which is a strong, assertive woman. This Spring Summer season sees a timeless, tonal collection with reds and browns taking centre stage SHOW NOTES Rolling sand dunes decorated with reeds and fl owers set the perfect spring-time scene for the SS2024 Hermès women’s ready-to-wear show. The undisputed home of luxury revisited its roots with a head-to-toe palette of leathery browns, burgundys and reds making the tonal collection a triumph. Tailored coats, slouchy suits and day- dresses were teamed with detailed belts, basket-bags and Birkins, while the midriff also made an appearance with bralette tops and their reimagined necklines making a debut. The ultimate Grecian sandal assembled from ribbon and woven calfskin complimented the eff ortless looks, cementing the forever-classic style rooted in Hermès’ iconic history. As the house so perfectly put it, the collection is: “made to protect but not to hide, to envelop but not to hinder. To trace your movements like a second skin, whether you’re wandering, whirling, or daydreaming.” HBQ_034_028to030_News_Hermes_13148042.indd 3026/01/2024 15:56 31 Harper’s Bazaar Qatar Spring 2024 The NEWS T H E O U T P O S T FASHION FUSED WITHART 1309 Studios took its style on the road with a pop-up at the Muse Hotel in Dubai Th inking outside the fashion box, 1309 Studio turned to the Muse Hotel in Dubai to create a bespoke space designed to transform the classic shopping experience into an artistic journey. Renowned for redefi ning traditional abayas, 1309 Studios, curated by visionary founder Ghada Al Subaey, aimed to transcend typical retail experiences with this immersive installation that dovetailed perfectly with it’s singular sartorial perspective. For this showcase, 1309 Studios teamed up with the talented artist Bayan Dahdah, known for her work on the Paradise abaya in Drop 10 of the label, for the pop-up. Bayan’s artistic fl air extends into an exclusive line of merchandise, including caps, hot water bottles, sweatshirts, quilts, and more, inspired by the signature abaya that already has her stamp. Th e fusion of traditional elegance from 1309 Studios and Dahdah’s contemporary edge captivated collectors. Ghada expressed her excitement, emphasising how thrilled she was with the result of the brand’s collaboration with Bayan Dahdah, making this event a unique and immersive experience. “Th is is the fi rst time we have done a pop-up on this scale in Dubai and we really want to bring people into the inspiration behind the collection and the universe of 1309 Studios,” said Ghada before the four day event. TH E JOINT VE NT U RE MAUZAN MAKES A MOVE The Emirati label opens its fi rst store in Qatar In a sign of it’s continued sucess Mauzan, the esteemed Emirati brand, has taken a signifi cant stride into the Qatari luxury retail landscape with the grand opening of its fi rst boutique in Lusail. Situated within the opulent Place Vendôme Mall, the store introduces Mauzan’s distictive aesthetic to the discerning clientele of Doha. Founder and designer, Rafi a Bin Drai Helal, enthused that she was, “thrilled to see Mauzan open its doors to a new store in Qatar, allowing our clients to experience the charm of Mauzan in person. As part of our ongoing expansion in the GCC, the opening of our Qatar store is a remarkable milestone following the recent inauguration of our Riyadh store.” Drawing inspiration from the serene desert landscape, the store seamlessly blends contemporary aesthetics with traditional charm, mirroring the brand’s commitment to exceptional quality and timeless sophistication.Th e boutique encapsulates the essence of the Mauzan maison, off ering a curated selection of fabrics, fragrances, and ready-to-wear pieces. HBQA_034_031_News_1309-Mauzan_13150206.indd 3129/01/2024 08:50 32 Harper’s Bazaar Qatar Spring 2024 Swapping shoe designs for book editing, designer Sophia Webster, is coming to this year’s Emirates LitFest with her debut book, Oh My Gosh, I Love Your Shoes! Loved in the Middle East for her iconic butterfl y motifs and feel-good footwear, the mum of four invites us into her colourful world to talk heels, embellishment and Taylor Swift… What might this book reveal to customers about your journey that they don’t yet know? “Th e book is very much a behind the scenes story starting from when I was a child – the Instagram versus reality. Th ere’s a lot of ups and downs and I don’t think I’ve ever been this personal before.” Words by RACHEL BASSETT She’s been known for her iconic, fl utterful heels but now British accessories designer Sophia Webster, is revealing a new side to her creativity as she travels to the Middle East to launch her memoir T H E N E X T C H AP TE R THE BUTTERFLY EFFECT Th e title of your book is fabulous! “‘Oh my gosh, I love your shoes!’ is probably the phrase I hear the most. Either said to me by friends, or someone stops me which is always so nice to hear.” Th e creative process of writing a book must be very diff erent from that of designing accessories ? “Writing a book is defi nitely out of my comfort zone. Th e process actually started with me drawing shoes. I set myself a challenge on New Year’s Eve 2020, to draw a shoe every day and as I was drawing, diff erent memories or stories inspired each design. I started to think ‘this would make a good illustration book!’, but as I wrote more and more, it became HBQ_034_032to033_Sophia Webster_13162831.indd 3229/01/2024 21:20 33 Harper’s Bazaar Qatar Spring 2024 The NEWS IMAGES: SUPPLIED an entrepreneurial story of how I started the business. It then evolved into an illustrated memoir.” How do your best selling designs in the Middle East diff er from those in other regions? “My Middle Eastern customers have a very elevated taste. Th ere are so many fabulous places and events to attend so they love a statement shoe for occasions. It’s so much fun for me to go to town on embellishment for region exclusives.” Your label has gone from strength to strength since 2012 – why do you think your designs are still so popular? “I like to stay in my lane. I create shoes that make people smile and conversation starters that give people the confi dence to walk a bit taller. Th e DNA of the brand is very consistent and people will know if someone’s got Sophia Webster shoes on.” How do you keep up with the demand for constant newness? “I seem to have the opposite problem, I’ve always got too many ideas! I’ve got ADHD so we’ll be working on one thing and I’m already onto the next or distracted by something else. My team’s problem is keeping me focused on developing the thing that we’ve already started.” What are the biggest challenges that you’ve faced over the years? “When you’re a new brand it’s exciting and lots of people want ‘the new big thing’ but you can only be the new kid on the block once, so after the fi rst few seasons, that’s the challenge. “Taking on investment was a time when the business was meant to kick into gear, then I had a really tragic personal experience where my dad was assaulted and he was left with a catastrophic brain injury. When you’re juggling balls as an entrepreneur and a mum, and you get thrown a curveball, that’s really tough.” Is there any such thing as a typical day for you? “I’ve got a nine-year-old, twin fi ve-year-olds and a one and a half-year-old so the mornings are chaotic but me and my husband will tag team – one of us gets them dressed while the other does breakfast and somehow we manage to get them out the door. After we’ve navigated the school run, we’ll come to the offi ce as we work together and it could be fi tting samples, working on a new collection, board meetings, working on shoots or setting up the showroom. Th en it’s home again for the next shift of mum life, dinner at 9pm and an hour of whichever Netfl ix boxset we’re watching.” How do you think you’ve personally changed since the start of your business? “When I started I was in my twenties and there was a certain fearlessness – I had nothing to lose! I had my fi rst daughter a year and a half into the business and I was totally naive about how much that would change everything. Th e business and categories evolved with my life; I got married and introduced the bridal collection, I had a child and introduced the mini collection. And, when I became a mum, I introduced sneakers and fl at boots, designing with more purpose. I guess you could say I’m evolving with my customers.” What celebrity moments are most memorable for you and why? “I would say Oprah doing her ‘me too’ speech wearing my black Coco Pumps was really special. And Taylor Swift wearing my Chiara Classic Butterfl y Wing Heels on the red carpet. Th e Swifties were on Twitter trying to decode the message behind the butterfl y which was just so cool. Overnight I had a whole new audience interested in that shoe.” From bottom left: Ciara Sandals, QR2,550; Book, QR205; Handbag, POA; all Sophia Webster “ADHA can be a blessing and a curse but from a creative point of view, I see it as a superpower” HBQ_034_032to033_Sophia Webster_13162831.indd 3329/01/2024 21:20The couture catwalks were dressed in hand made creations that wowed the crowds 34 Harper’s Bazaar Qatar Spring 2024 HBQ_034_34to37_News_Catwalk Report_13164045.indd 3430/01/2024 13:26Words by ALEXANDRA FULLERTON The lightest fabrics, sugared almond shades and highly structured silhouettes made for a scintillating season in Paris T H E S H O W S The COUTURE REPORT 2024 HBQ_034_34to37_News_Catwalk Report_13164045.indd 3530/01/2024 13:2736 Harper’s Bazaar Qatar Spring 2024 Ah, couture... GEORGES HOBEIKA An homage to the women of the Arab world, at George Hobeika co-creative directors Georges and Jad Hobeika evoked the glamour of 1960s parties in Beirut with a candy coloured collection that sparked joy in the front row attendees. Featuring far more daywear looks than were seen across the other catwalks at this couture season’s shows, Georges Hobeika hinted that the magic of couture shouldn’t be saved for after dark galas and parties alone. Th e joy of a perfectly tailored longline skirt suit or collarless jacket and wide-leg trousers are reason to revel in couture at any time of day. Of course there were many gowns that elicited gasps – a blush pink column dress that wound across the body with cutaway grace was such a piece. Th e tones were also far bolder than spotted across the rest of couture week’s shows, with vibrant turquoise, bold scarlet and parma violet purple in the mix with the pastel shades that are dominating the season. Highly detailed thread work replicated the tapestry and fringes on traditional Arabic rugs while the swirls of coff ee grains were reinvented as prints that felt at once familiar and devastatingly fashionable. The pinnacle of the fashion show calendar, when dreams are made real from reams of tulle, mousselline and embroidered silks. With a galaxy of celebrities in attendance (including Jennifer Lopez at Elie Saab) for Spring/ Summer 2024 it seemed that the entire coterie of couture designers were focused on lightness of touch, fabrics that appeared to fl oat on the model’s bodies and a pale palette of pastel tones – often echoing the shades of the sea or desert. There was a real dedication to craft across the catwalks, although the Arabic maisons were most heavily infl uenced by their own region’s rich heritage, going on to create some of the most desirable collections of the entire season. HBQ_034_34to37_News_Catwalk Report_13164045.indd 3630/01/2024 11:0437 Harper’s Bazaar Qatar Spring 2024 The NEWS ELIE SAAB Entitled ‘desert rose’ we saw again the season’s favourite dusty, sun-washed colours on show at Elie Saab for S/S24. Elie told WWD he was infl uenced by “the mystery of Morocco, inside the souk and the light of the desert.” Indeed, the cutwork on the early exits from the collection echoed the architectural fretwork seen in the Marrakech markets and geometric motifs echoed North African architecture beautifully. Sensual gold details played out across the gowns on bodices and sleeves and were seen alongside some of the most delicate fl oral appliqués this season, which bloomed across a sheer violet gown or were crafted from feathers, against a slate blue draped dress. Detailed capes also made an entrance this season alongside full-length and fl oor skimming gowns which lent a certain glamour and gravitas only couture can inspire and the details proved the artisan skillset of couture remains as rich and relevant as ever. RAMI AL ALI Rami Al Ali was enchanted by Bedouin heritage and his own childhood memories to create a 30-look collection anchored by the concept of lightness. Th e desert landscape was the most obvious inspiration, where a palette of sandy tones, earthy browns and maroon were shot through with bold sunset orange and classic monochrome tones. On closer inspection, gowns were embellished with motifs that echoed traditional woven rugs and woollen tents. Gauzy muslin, gazar, sheer silk and tulle had a playful airiness that seemed to run through the entire S/S24 couture season, meaning Rami’s collection was absolutely of the moment, yet still singularly individual. Th e majority of gowns skimmed the fl oor, while some rose up around the models’ shoulders and necks in stiff folds, reminiscent of rose petals. A brown strapless dress glimmered with metallic shimmer while capes and cover-ups catered to those more modest dressers. Menswear was introduced for the fi rst time on the catwalk, too, and the looks – just as fl uid and extravagant as their womenswear exhibited much fl air and promise. The NEWS HBQ_034_34to37_News_Catwalk Report_13164045.indd 3730/01/2024 11:0538 Harper’s Bazaar Qatar Spring 2024 The JEWELS SATURNE GOLD-TONE CLIP HOOP EARRINGS Gold-Tone Plated, QR4,100. Balenciaga LES CRÉOLES TURBI GOLD-TONE EARRINGS Gold-Tone Plated, QR1,095, Jacquemus STATEMENTS Enter the Year of the Dragon. This mythical fi re- breathing creature is an emblem of power in Chinese culture; it represents strength, vitality and good fortune. It is considered lucky to be a dragon baby 2024 The fi rst chapter of the Game of Thrones collection, called Dragon, includes fi ve diff erent designs. Only 10 pieces of each design were created 10 The dragon is the fi fth animal in the 12-year cycle of the Chinese calendar 5 SCULPTURAL MOROCCAN MYSTIQUE: ASHAHA Founded in 2022 by Oumaima Benharbit, this contemporary fi ne jewellery line, comprising an array of pieces from ear cuff s to chokers and signet rings, is an ode to feminine individuality. Th e brand off ers subtle designs that are infused with an avant-garde twist. Informed by her Moroccan heritage, Oumaima’s jewellery embraces abstract geometric shapes, unusual patterns and gemstone pairings. Th e pieces are wearable yet still unique and eye-catching making them appealing to both minimalist and maximalist jewellery lovers. WORDS: IMOGENE LEGRAND. IMAGES: SUPPLIED DRAGON EAR CUFF, FABERGÉ WITH GEMFIELDS RUBIES This dragon ear cuff belongs to the Fabergé x Game of Thrones high jewellery collection which was designed in collaboration with Michele Clapton, the show’s award-winning costume designer. The pieces fuse the sparkling world of high jewellery with the fantasy realm of one of the most groundbreaking TV shows in contemporary culture. This creation takes inspiration from the character of Daenerys Targaryen, the warrior queen (and Mother of Dragons) who became a symbol of female prowess and bravery. A selection of exceptional jewels our editors are eyeing this season JEWELLER Y NOTEBOOK Voluptuous gold earrings are now essential in our jewellery repetoire. These standout pieces are all virtually weightless, making them the perfect easy pairing to any look In Chinese astrology, the 12 zodiac animals are each associated with one of the fi ve elements – metal, wood, water, fi re and earth. The last Year of the Wood Dragon was 60 years ago, in 1964 60 JULIUS GOLD-TONE EARRINGS Gold-Tone Brass, QR2,630, Khaite TWIST DROP EARRINGS Gold-Plated Sterling Silver, QR5,500 Bottega Veneta ANIMA GOLD-TONE HOOP EARRINGS Gold-Plated, QR705, Laura Lombardi White and Rose Gold Game of Thrones Dragon Ear Cuff with Rubies and Diamonds, POA, Fabergé Featuring Gemfi elds Rubies HBQ_034-038_Jewelry Notebook_13159850.indd 3829/01/2024 21:2139 HarpersBazaarArabia.com November 2023 AT WORK SWEATER WEATHER It may be chilly(ish) outside, but you’ll stay cosy with these tactile essentials PHOTOGRAPHY : EFRAIM EVIDOR. STYLING: CHARLOTTE MARSH-WILLIAMS 39 Harper’s Bazaar Qatar Spring 2024 Agenda Cover, QR2,310, Louis Vuitton Bitter Peach EDP, QR1,350 for 50ml, Tom Ford Hair Clips, QR1,860 each, all Prada Shoes, POA, Gucci Sunglasses, QR4,755 each, both Cartier Scarf, QR3,750, Saint Laurent Scarf Ring, QR7,000, Saint Laurent Velvet Rose & Oud Candle, QR370, Jo Malone Bags, QR16,650 each, both Loewe Gloves, POA, Kristina Fidelskaya Brooch, QR1,720, Chloé HBQ_034_039_Flat lay_13143767.indd 3926/01/2024 15:58Next >