< Previous The XXX bac k-to -back meetings so he is home for his gir ls’ be dt im e My day typically begins at 6:45AM. I take a shower, brush my teeth and do my skincare routine – a routine that currently includes my CeraVe Face Wash, Lancôme Rénergie H.C.F. Triple Serum, Tatcha Water Cream, and the Supergoop Suncream. At 7:00AM, I wake up my eldest daughter Emma, get her dressed and ready for the day ahead. When it comes to getting dressed, I do the same thing for myself that I do with my children – I pick my outfi t the night before, making our mornings extremely effi cient. I can probably get ready in under two minutes. Right now, my personal style is ‘hot dad’ and my favourite brand is Th e Row, which I buy online on Matches for convenience. An outfi t staple of mine is my pendant which I wear every day, in fact, I have never really taken it off . It’s from Philip Crangi and was made for my birthday. It has my date of birth in Roman numerals on one side, and then on the other side, it has my initials and two interlacing horses. At 7:30AM it’s time to get Charlotte, my youngest, up and dressed. Once we are ready, we head to the kitchen for breakfast. My breakfast consists of two pieces of gluten-free toast with butter. I aim to leave the house around 8:30AM depending on whether I’m taking Emma to school or not. After waving goodbye to the girls, I head out of the door with a bottle of water, any work papers I’ve been looking over, and my computer. I live two minutes away from the offi ce so for me the commute is quick; I can usually be in the offi ce by 9:00AM. I get to my desk with an iced tea (always from Starbucks), and “RIGHT NOW, MY PERSONAL STYLE IS ‘HOT DAD’ AND MY FAVOURITE BR AND IS THE ROW” Joseph Altuzarra hours with... The desig ner and father of two has his day s fi lle d wi th Joseph Altuzarra This red Donrine mini dress from Altuzarra uses ruching at the waist and puff sleeves to create a more sculptured silhouette HBQ_032_020to021_24hours_JosephAltuzarra_13055374.indd 2017/10/2023 14:46check my emails – it’s the fi rst thing that I do. No two days are the same with my job but I’ll take you through one of my recent days. At 9:30AM I had a lab-dip fabric meeting review for AW24. Th is is where we look over fabric colours and choose what we want to move forward with. At 10:00AM I had a meeting with a prospective design intern. Th is was followed by a progress review for a secret project we are currently working on at 10:30AM. I then had a strike-off print review where we looked at prints on fabrics, picking the colours that we are most interested in. From 11:00AM to 1:30PM, I had a yarn order meeting for AW24. By 1:30AM it was time for a quick bite to eat. My lunch is always the same… a sandwich: toasted gluten-free bread, turkey, mayo, cucumber, and avocado with a diet Snapple peach iced tea. I eat lunch with the team every single day – it’s a nice way to decompress and bond and something that I always take the time to do. After lunch we had a model come in for a jacket sleeve fi tting. Th en we had a shoe and jewellery fi tting for the SS24 collection. At 2:30PM I met with a television network for a special project. By 3:00PM we were visiting venues for the SS24 fashion show in September. I usually try to be home by 6:30PM as I like to spend as much time with the girls as I can. After I put Charlotte and Emma down for bed, I will usually order takeaway. I never cook dinner. At the moment, I’m really enjoying simple grilled salmon with vegetables as I’m trying to eat a little healthier in the evenings. After dinner, to unwind I will watch some TV and do some knitting for a couple of hours, or I’ll read. Usually, I head to bed by 11:00PM. 21 Harper’s Bazaar Qatar Autumn/Winter 2023 INTER VIEW : JESSICA MICHAUL T JO S E P H ’S P I C K S Rénergie H.C.F Triple Serum, QR430, Lancôme Bag, QR2,030, Altuzarra exclusive to Matches Sweater, QR7,045, The Row Unseen Sunscreen, QR155, Supergoop The Water Cream, QR300, Tatcha Over the years Joseph has created some eye-catching Met Gala looks including actor Rachel Brosnahan’s golden gown and Ariana DeBose’s striking yellow creation that featured a parka-inspired beaded top Joseph has created an exclusive capsule collection for Matches that feature some of his staple designs The use of shibori- dyed patterns is a recurring theme in Joseph’s designs. Case in point, this white cotton Lydia dress HBQ_032_020to021_24hours_JosephAltuzarra_13055374.indd 2117/10/2023 14:4722 Harper’s Bazaar Qatar Autumn/Winter 2023 The NEWS Words by CLAIRE CARRUTHERS Meet the dynamic young talent hoping to take home one of Fashion Trust Arabia’s top prizes NEW WAVE T H E O N E S T O W A TC H HBQ_032_22to27_News_FTA_13032155.indd 2216/10/2023 15:0923 Harper’s Bazaar Qatar Autumn/Winter 2023 The NEWS Entering its fi fth year, the region’s emerging designer showcase Fashion Trust Arabia (FTA), has become something of an operative – a non-profi t incubator of creativity, dedicated to fi nding and nurturing new design talent from across the Middle East and North Africa (MENA). Established by Tania Fares alongside co-chair HE Sheikha Al Mayassa bint Hamad bin Khalifa Al-Th ani, and under the patronage of Honorary Chair HH Sheikha Moza bint Nasser, the industry has certainly come to rely on it, not least for its ability to provide much needed fi nancial support (grants of $100,000 to $200,000) and mentorship to its winners (off ered by Matches and Harrods amongst others, who will also carry certain winning collections for a season), but also for shining a spotlight on the region at large, connecting creatives and fueling conversations with a global fashion community. All 24 fi nalists will present their work to a jury of industry leaders before six winners are announced from each of their respective categories, covering ready-to-wear, eveningwear, jewelry and accessories; there’s a lot at stake for those in contention. Grants will also be given to winners of the Franca Sozzani Debut Talent Award and the Guest Country Partnership Award in collaboration with EMERGE Initiative, which this year sees Nigeria take up temporary residency. Representation and PR support (via Maison Pyramide) and tailored tutelage on the importance of sustainability practices by luxury ethical fashion retail platform Maison De Mode, complete a well-rounded reward for MENA’s most exciting up-and-comers. For the 2023 edition, the lineup promises originality and fearless creativity – individual, assured in their point of view and bold in their statements. All supremely worthy winners… READY TO WEAR AHMED AMER (Lebanon) Muse the collections of this Beirut-based multi-disciplinary artist and you’ll fi nd not only intelligently cut, gender-fl uid pieces crafted from deadstock fabrics and recycled materials, but a poignant reminder of the hardship it took to create them. For the story of Ahmed’s life – the devastating blast of the Lebanese capital in August 2020 and the societal and political aftermath – inspires his emotionally- charged embroidery woven throughout. ELISE TESTOT (Syria) Gloriously feminine with an aesthetic nod to the 1950’s, Elise celebrates her Syrian mother (her muse) and Middle Eastern heritage (with brocade and vintage fabrics) while taking design cues from Paris (her current base) for her latest off ering. Th ink ruffl e cuts, sherbet hues and corsage embellishment – unapologetically bold and ‘anti trend’ in the best way possible. SARAH ALHAMDAN (Saudi Arabia) With her inaugural collection, Sarah is already striving for the end goal: circularity. Her London based label, Mood of Th ought (MOT), is “an experiment in radical collaboration and uncompromising environmental commitment,” composed of consciously created capsules in inclusive cuts. Everything from materials to production is approached with a sustainable mindset. ZEID HIJAZI (Jordan) Zeid is a visionary, challenging any preconceived notions on how Arab women dress with his gloriously dark blend of historical referencing, futurism and couture-like craftsmanship. Peak- shouldered coats, Tatreez textile cross-stitching and tasseled capes are presented in a gothic pantone Lee McQueen may well have approved of. An alumnus of Central Saint Martins, the Palestinian designer now operates between London and Amman, shaping his collections with the maturity of an industry stalwart. From far left: Zeid Hijazi, Sarah Alhamdan, Ahmed Amer and Elise Testot are all competing in RTW HBQ_032_22to27_News_FTA_13032155.indd 2316/10/2023 15:0924 Harper’s Bazaar Qatar Autumn/Winter 2023 The NEWS Clockwise from above: Eveningwear specialists Sara Chraibi, Amir Al Kasm, Yassmin Saleh and Cynthia Merhej have all been put in the spotlight this year EVENING WEAR AMIR AL KASM (Syria) “I want to leave an imprint in the world of design,” says Amir of his need to express himself through his evening and bridal creations, resulting in melancholic silhouettes inspired by his late brother (Acid, 2019), religious ideologies and materials that mimic the texture of cracked paint (Varnish, 2018) and layered chiff ons that nod to the paradoxical nature of jellyfi sh (Translucent, 2017). CYNTHIA MERHEJ (Lebanon) Proudly loyal to a heritage of women-led couture born in Beirut by her great grandmother, Cynthia has carried her family’s legacy into the 21st century with Renaissance Renaissance – a label bursting with love for the craft and the sheer joy of clothes. At its core is a wonderful dichotomy of tradition and freedom of expression, with one- of-a-kind pieces that are at the same time entirely wearable. SARA CHRAIBI (Morocco) “Contemporary oriental elegance” is how Sara describes her signature blend of precision (informed by her background in architecture and the statuary of ancient Arabia), artisanal craftsmanship (passed down from her mother and early years growing up in Rabat) and opulence (a result of her desire to celebrate women). Th ink kaftans in columns of gold embroidery and intricately beaded eveningwear. YASSMIN SALEH (Lebanon) Careful curation, couture techniques and an emphasis on creating capsules within a fi ve-step framework (for instance, sustainable pieces are refl ected with Earthline while Sunline acts as a showcase for the designer’s artistic and technical mastery) informs the work of this Beirut based label, headed by Yassmin (creative) and her sister Farah (business operations). HBQ_032_22to27_News_FTA_13032155.indd 2416/10/2023 17:02 The NEWS IMAGES: SUPPLIED JEWELLERY ANAS ALOMAIM (Kuwait) For his fi ne jewellery brand, Oumaem, architect and designer Anas Alomaim fi nds inspiration in the vernacular forms of Arab architecture, the geometrics of structure and, with his latest off ering Badan, the playful symbolism of body organs. Designed to be layered, mismatched, or worn as singular quiet statements, his pieces speak to a modern global audience. KATARINA TARAZI (Lebanon) Spin, fl ip, swap and stack Katarina’s cryptic creations, born from a childhood love of collecting trinkets in her native Beirut. Ethically crafted from 18k gold, VVS white diamonds and natural and precious gemstones, these pieces – mini cultural artifacts, tarot card symbols and astrological amulets – are timeless while tapping into our desire to play. NOUR BEN CHEIKH & CLÉ MENTINE LECOINTRE (Tunis) Having cut their teeth working with luxury brands, friends Nour (Tunisian) and Clé mentine (born and raised in Paris), launched Èlbé in 2018 – a smart, eco-conscious accessories and jewellery label that adds seasonal pieces (partly inspired by leftover materials) to a permanent collection handmade in France from recycled silver and vermeil. SHEREEN SHAWKY (Egypt) Titled Dys-Euphoria (to represent, in short, happiness and sadness and the acceptance of both extremes), Shereen’s Cairo based jewellery line honours individuality while paying tribute to local identity. Her fi rst collection, A Tribute to Benben, features graphic motifs from ancient Egyptian mythology handcrafted in sterling silver, 80 per cent of which is recycled. Clockwise from left: Pieces by Èlbé, Dys Euphoria, Katarina Tarazi and Anas Alomaim HBQ_032_22to27_News_FTA_13032155.indd 2516/10/2023 15:0926 Harper’s Bazaar Qatar Autumn/Winter 2023 The NEWS Clockwise from left: Debuting in style, Amina Galal, Batoul Omar Al- Rashdan, Adam Alaoui Elyasse and Aristhane FRANCA SOZZANI DEBUT TALENT AWARD ADAM ALAOUI ELYASSE (Morocco) A capsule menswear collection titled Khamsin (Arabic for ‘fi fty,’ referring to the wind that blows across North Africa every springtime for fi fty days), sees Adam combine his Moroccan heritage and East London upbringing to off er a sophisticated selection of utilitarian outerwear (windbreakers, cargo pants, padded jackets) in a pantone refl ective of both city and desert living. AMINA GALAL (Egypt) For a debut motivated by the divisive nature of deculturalization and “the aesthetic of globalization,” the fact that her collection of intelligently blended ready to wear is also utterly editorial is perhaps an unwelcome upshot for the supremely talented Amina. With In Our Alleys she explores and sensitively celebrates the clashing of cultures through maximalist looks that combine native signatures and silhouettes (all her knitwear and leather pieces are created in collaboration with Egyptian artisans) with pop culture referencing. BATOUL OMAR AL-RASHDAN (Jordan) “Fusing hi-tech processes with eco- conscious materials,” Studio B.O.R is following in the footsteps of designers such as Iris Van Herpen and wholly championing the evolution of couture through a fusion of biology and technology. Batoul uses recycled materials, digital design tools and 3D printing to create interchangeable pieces – oceanic inspired dresses, separates and accessories – with an avant-garde slant. MAÏ SSANE NOUR ZINAÏ (Algeria) A graduate of Central Saint Martins, Maissane and her label Aristhane have caught the industry’s attention due to her mastery of dynamic shapes, sport-oriented designs, sci-fi referencing and community-centered narratives. Her approach is sustainable (pieces created using leftover fabric) but above all she has a visceral desire to tell stories and revisit traditions from her Algerian roots. HBQ_032_22to27_News_FTA_13032155.indd 2617/10/2023 10:36 The NEWS GUEST COUNTRY PARTNERSHIP - NIGERIA ADEJU THOMPSON Th e delightfully titled Lagos Space Programme is “a conceptual non-binary label…that off ers intellectual, high-end ready-to-wear collections while exploring parallel concepts through multidisciplinary collaborative projects.” Adeju also taps into his life experience to communicate ideas of individuality – the result of which is some truly beautiful tailoring. INIYE TOKYO JAMES Founded in 2015, Tokyo James has already established a cult following due to the brand’s cross-continental approach and execution of Savile Row tailoring techniques juxtaposed with unconventional colorways and textiles. Th e designer’s use of deadstock and upcycling is commendable, as his gloriously roomy suiting. KENNETH IZE Working directly with a variety of communities across Nigeria, Kenneth is committed to continuing and supporting a rich local legacy of artisanship. Th rough his namesake label (founded in 2013), he reinterprets West African fabrics for men and women. Most recently, for Fall 2023, the majority of his lineup – “98 per cent worth” – was ingeniously made from upcycled garments sourced at Lagos’s Katangua market. NKWO ONWUKA Hoping to bridge the gap between textile- waste reduction and craft-skill preservation is Nkwo Onwuka who founded her label NKWO in 2012. She embraced a material called Dakala cloth, developed with artisans who use a strip- weaving technique to sew and braid old fabrics together. Th ink unique patchworked blazers, shirt dresses and hand-dyed kaftans. ACCESSORIES AMEL BATITA (Algeria) Blurring the boundaries between art and fashion, Amel creates artworks – textured canvases made from recycled materials like plastic water bottles and aluminum paper – which are used to inform the vibrant prints on her line of luxury silk scarves. “I love the idea that the silk scarf becomes a permanent exhibition when it is worn,” she says. DINA BAHEIR (Egypt) Off ering an alternative to the ‘big brand’ designer totes that dominate the region’s shopping malls is Scopa, an Egyptian label founded by Dina and her mother Amal, whose vibrant, hand-painted wooden bags are a breath of fresh air. Abstract prints and cultural motifs echo the vivacious spirit of their homeland. OMAR TAHA & LILY MAX (Egypt) Based in Cairo, design studio A Better Feeling is carving out a niche for itself with their slick eyewear off ering. Co-designed by Omar and Lily in collaboration with founder Xander Ghost, futuristic designs “dedicated to creating synergy between product and person” are crafted from stainless steel, acetate and nylon. OUBADAH NOUKTAH (Syria) Oubadah’s story is wholly unique. Born in Damascus, he later moved to Paris and found a passion for car design. With the launch of his eponymous bag brand, he has mined the materials, technology and curving lines of his favourite automotives to create pieces with practical functionality (the ‘cabriolet bag’ features a patented opening inspired by a convertible car roof ) and style. Some pieces are even crafted from upcycled car parts. Clockwise from left: Amel Battita, A Better Feeling, Oubadah Nouktah, Dina Baheir. Bottom left: Lagos Space Programme HBQ_032_22to27_News_FTA_13032155.indd 2716/10/2023 15:10SUBS.ITP.COM MIAMI’S ART SCENE UNCOVERED subscribe now clockwise from top left miles aldridge. 3-D. 2010. Chromogenic print. 152.5×152.5cm. Edition of 3. TYPOE. Over The Rainbow. 2021. Site-speci c mural at The Andy Warhol Museum. Courtesy of the artist. MAURIZIO CATTELAN. Comedian. 2019. Banana, duct tape. Variable dimensions, 20x20x5cm. Courtesy of the artist and Perrotin. ART_003_313_Subscribe_12758287.indd 3141/23/2023 2:58:58 PM29 Harper’s Bazaar Qatar Autumn/Winter 2023 The NEWS WORDS BY BIANCA BRIGITTE BONOMI AL L EYES ON YOU Qa tar i jew eller y brand Witr offers a novelta ke on lega cy months to produce one fi nished eye print; it is still a very lengthy process,” says Reem. “Th e fi rst step is visiting the studio to capture the eye print in a series of high-resolution images. We then select the best picture before the process of engraving begins. Th e engraving is very precise and very complex — we continually compare the engraved item with the picture and we cannot deliver it until it is absolutely accurate. Th ere is a lot of back and forth involved and the timing depends on how complicated an individual’s eye print may be.” Clients can select from a variety of precious gemstones and carats. “We have options available for diff erent budgets. Many of our customers opt for very bespoke detailing in terms of the gemstones used. Th e sky is the limit.” Th e novelty of the idea has also seen it receive outside-of-the-box commissioning requests from cultural and arts’ organisations, with a confi dential museum project currently in the works. “Th e power of the eye print is signifi cant in terms of capturing someone’s life and soul. For that reason, the projects I work on are so impactful.” For many clients, Witr’s unique approach adds to the joy of handing down jewellery from generation to generation by introducing a truly personal element. “It’s a way of keeping the people we love with us forever and gives us the opportunity to gift a piece of ourselves too”, explains Reem. “Th e fi rst ever piece I ever made was my mother’s eye. I wanted to start with her eye as a blessing for this project and as a way to keep her with me. When I touch the texture of the engraving, or hold it in my hands, I feel that she is here with me, so it’s very sentimental.” @witrjewelry In the world of fi ne jewellery, uniqueness is a prized concept. For Qatari designer Reem Al Shamari, however, creating something unique goes beyond a mere notion and underpins her entire brand ethos. Witr, “an Arabic word meaning singular”, specialises in capturing and engraving eye prints. Th e iris of individual eyes vary in colour, but the texture and pattern is also distinctive, featuring ridges and crypts across the surface making it as unique as a fi ngerprint. “I wanted to fi nd a way of translating that into precious jewellery so that it could last forever,” the former Scale7 incubee tells Bazaar. “Th at’s how Witr was born.” Launched in 2015, Al Shamari had ambitious plans since inception. “Early on, I met two American lawyers at Qatar Foundation to help me secure an international patent. Th ey needed to research the idea and see if it existed anywhere in the world. After six months, they came back to let me know that the idea was really mine. I couldn’t believe it was fi nally happening. It was 2016 – a busy year for the brand – when I fi nally got to work on the fi rst piece. I was at the Qatar Business Incubation Centre at the time and was contacted by the Doha Jewellery and Watch Exhibition to participate in the fair because they were impressed with the idea. We created an Instagram page to let people know that this idea existed and in the fi rst hour we received over 200 requests. It was an amazing response. Today, we receive many international, as well as regional, requests too, particularly from the US and France.” As with any bespoke item, the process and technology behind each commission is time consuming. “It can take us up to three T H E P I O N E E R HBQ_032_29_News_Qatari jewellery_13046014.indd 2917/10/2023 10:30Next >