< Previous40 HarpersBazaarArabia.com May 2020 PHOTOGRAPHY : FRAUKE FISCHER. STYLING: LAUREN T FRANKS - REPORT- I A: have fi nally found the secret to success at work. When I say ‘success’, I don’t mean making more money, getting a promotion or feeling in demand, nice though those things are. And by ‘work’, I really mean ‘life’, because as an entrepreneur I have always blended the two (who hasn’t answered an email in their pyjamas?). Success, for me, is feeling human in the ‘always-on’ machine age, and being able to switch between busy and calm. So, what’s the secret? It’s learning to embrace simplicity. Not unlike a sugar addict deciding to give up chocolate, I realised that my lifestyle diet had far too much complexity in it. For years, I had been a manic multi-tasker, running two small businesses while maintaining a full-on family life. I thought the busier my existence was, the better. My generation of fully fl edged second-generation feminists (I am 55) knew how liberating work was, and how hard the fi ght had been to get us out of domestic servitude and into equality. I loved working, and still do. When my career took off in Limiting your time online and streamlining your to-do list could boost your productivity Q: CAN YOU LEAD A SIMPLER LIFE? Words by JULIA HOBSBAWM HBZ_147_040to041_WomenAtWork_11269990.indd 4003/05/2020 01:10:26 PM41 HarpersBazaarArabia.com May 2020 At WORK of data came from neuro science. Our brains have a cognitive limit of seven, which, simply put, means that if we go above that number on our to-do list, we become frazzled. So, as a way of calming down my life, I decided to focus on six instead – a number that is highly relevant in both culture and nature, associated with effi ciency, strength and connection (take the honey comb, built by bees – on which the human race depend – or the snowfl ake, each one as individual as we are: both are hexagons). The fi rst thing was to look at my day as a series of six episodes in which I wanted to get six things done. Asking myself ‘which six things matter today?’ helped clarify my priorities; cutting out choice cut out complexity. Then, I started setti ng aside time to be without a phone, even for just 20 minutes. At fi rst that felt dangerous, exposed. Now it feels like it would have done not so very long ago: normal. When I started to live by the simplicity principle, I worried that it would become like a diet: made for breaking. Instead, it liberated me. Rather than grumbling about how I was behaving, even my children and husband, who can see through me in seconds, couldn’t pick holes in it. They could tell I was calmer, less frenetic, possibly even more fun. It’s defi nitely nice not to feel stressed all the time, not to feel decision fatigue every day, nor to be dependent every single second on my mobile. I keep it simple – six minutes, six seconds at a time – and it works for me. Nature has been key to my success. All the research shows that even looking at a picture of a tree calms us; no wonder sitting under a strip light in a window- less offi ce makes us feel stressed. I check weather apps constantly and if the sun is out, I’m in it where possible. I invest more in trainers than anything else these days, to go to appointments on foot, or even have walk-and-talk meetings. I think of digital detoxes as a kind of intermittent fasting. Of course, there are binge days, but there has to be abstinence too. It’s a new world now – one where humans and machines live together, cheek-by-jowl – and I want to make sure we all succeed in it. ■ ‘The Simplicity Principle: Six Steps Towards Clarity in a Complex World’ by Julia Hobsbawm (Dhs70, Kogan Page) is out now. the 1990s, connectivity was exploding: mobile phones (albeit brick-like ones) were beginning to appear; media channels were popping up all over the place with satellite television; the computer was becoming affordable; and the internet was entering the mainstream (along with a new-fangled thing called email). I lapped up all the changes, and believed that the more I could do, the happier I would be. By the time I reached my mid-forties, social media had arrived, and so too had physical and mental exhaustion. I became seriously ill, and my recovery put me on a road to discovering what I call ‘social health’: how to be fi t and well in our hyperconnected world. Cut to today and the average person uses at least seven devices or social feeds, with Ofcom revealing that we all now pick up our mobiles once every 12 minutes, or 80 times a day. The world has an obesity problem, but it also has an issue with infobesity: an excess of anxiety- inducing information that neuroscience shows can reduce our brain’s ability to function. We may think we are on top of things, but the evidence suggests otherwise: 15 million working days are lost each year to stress in the UK, and research has proven that it takes at least 20 minutes to regain concentration after coming offl ine. In other words, multi-tasking is a myth, and constant connectivity can be as bad for our health as overeating. For me, the antidote to this overdose 1. DON’T MULTI-TASK, MONOTASK Do one thing at a time, giving it your full focus. 2. JUST SAY NO Limit what you agree to do, because saying yes to everything is exhausting. 3. SET ASIDE TIME TO BE OFFLINE Spend at least an hour a day, or three 20-minute sessions, working in a different way, whether using a notepad and pen or reading something on paper. 4. ENGAGE IN PHYSICAL ACTIVITY FOR AT LEAST AN HOUR A DAY Remember to put your smartphone completely out of reach while you do this. 5. BE YOUR SOCIAL SELF FACE TO FACE, NOT ON FACEBOOK You don’t have to delete your social media accounts, but consider how much time you spend online. 6. SIT WITH YOUR FEELINGS FOR SIX MINUTES A DAY See what comes to the surface as priorities or anxieties, and trust yourself to know what creativity and productivity mean to you. THE SIMPLICITY FIX Julia Hobsbawm’s six rules of disengagement HBZ_147_040to041_WomenAtWork_11269990.indd 4103/05/2020 01:10:38 PM42 HarpersBazaarArabia.com May 2020 Clinical psychologist Dr Saliha Afridi shares her strategies for using our universal experience of the global pandemic as an opportunity for personal growth In one of the most compelling conversations of Harper’s Bazaar Arabia’s Virtual Retreat, Dr Saliha Afridi, the Founder and Managing Director of The LightHouse Arabia used her masterclass, ‘Emotional Resilience: How To Thrive During Times of Uncertainty’ to fl ip the script on our internal monologue accompanying the COVID-19 crisis. “It’s very important to understand that anxiety is not the enemy,” she told the audience of our at-home self-improvement series on Instagram Live. “What matters is what you do with it and how you learn to listen to it in these are uncertain times.” Here’s what we learned from Dr Saliha about how to respond to our emotions and environment, rather than react. 1. Create a routine “I believe that you need to hold yourself to a high standard during such times because I want you to bring your best self to your work and to your life every single day,” Dr Saliha declared and – although she conceded that the concept of “your best” is a fl uid concept from day to day – that involves stepping away from the loungewear and into the shower at the very least. “A routine is the antidote for anxiety, because it creates a sense of predictability. When your life feels like it’s spiralling out of control, get a good routine in place.” What does this look like? “Have a routine and dress for that routine. Act as if you are going out if you want to be your most productive, effi cient and organised, so you can actually send calming signals to your brain about what you can expect from your day.” And you don’t have to abandon your comfort clothes altogether. She suggested, “You should actually wear pyjamas to bed because that’s sending a signal to your brain that you need to be going to bed right now.” 2. Rewrite the narrative Now is the time to choose your words carefully, as the narrative you create for yourself will inform your emotions. “Your HOW DO I THRIVE IN TIMES OF UNCERTAINTY? language is very, very important,” she stressed. “By replacing, ‘I am socially isolated’, with ‘I am staying indoors’, ‘I choose to stay indoors’ or ‘I am staying safe’, you are actually creating a very different story inside of your head.” She explained, ”One of our most important human needs is a sense of connection and belonging in a group, so words and phrases like ‘social distancing,’ ‘isolation’ and ‘quarantine’ can be constant triggers. Even calling it ‘physical distancing’ makes me feel anxious.” Instead, Dr Saliha suggests simply stating the facts such as, “I’m standing two metres apart from the person in the grocery store.” Furthermore, she advised eliminating the negatives – grammatically and psychologically – by replacing “I don’t want to get sick” with “I want to stay healthy”, “I want to build my immunity”, and “I want to focus more on my physical health.” 3. Concentrate on what you can control Dr Saliha insisted we avoid victim mentality at all costs. “If your inner dialogue is, ‘I can’t believe this is happening to me,’ you’re going to feel powerless.” Instead, we should shift our attention to the outcomes we can influence. “The one thing that we know for sure is what you do with your physical body and what you put into your physical body is in your control. Actions are empowering, and actually counteract fear, so make a list of all the things you can control and then just start moving in that direction.” HBZ_147_042to043_DrSaliha_11281996.indd 4203/05/2020 01:11:28 PM43 HarpersBazaarArabia.com Month 2020 43 HarpersBazaarArabia.com May 2020 The WELLNESS Giving us an insight into what to expect from her consultations, she admitted, “I actually write a prescription for people that have gone through something traumatic, such as a break-up or a diffi cult experience and that says you need to go exercise every single day for two weeks and then come back and talk to me. Just focus on your body and then the mind will follow.” 4. Filter your newsfeeds Overwhelmed by information? You’re not alone. Dr Saliha had this advice to fi lter the 24-hour fl ow of facts and fake news: “Limit your news sources to one local channel around 10-11am once you’ve completed your exercise and started your routine – not fi rst thing in the morning or last thing at night – then look at the World Health Organization for factual information. That’s only for people who really want to read the news every day. For people who don’t want to read the news every day, wash your hands, take your precautionary measures, and keep two metres away from others. You already know everything there is to know in order to stay safe right now.” 5. Stay connected Dr Saliha had constructive advice for those quarantining alone: “Just because you are alone physically does not mean you have to feel lonely. You are not socially isolated unless you really want to be – and there are some people who are choosing to be isolated because that’s just what they enjoy,” she accepted. “It’s very important that you stay connected to the people in your life – especially if you’re living alone – to allay fears such as, ‘What if something happens to me? Will someone know? Will someone check in on me? Who will come and get me?’” Her solution? “Have a plan that sets part of your mind at ease. I recommend having a buddy system, where you ask a friend, ‘Hey, if you don’t hear from me by 3pm every day, can you just give me a call and check in on me? And if I don’t hear from you, then I’ll check in.’” 6. Communicate your boundaries Conversely, those quarantining with family or friends may need some alone time. “People who have others around them might actually need some boundaries in place,” Dr Saliha pointed out. “It’s going to be very important for you to have those kinds of conversations so you stay connected in a way that is healthy.” Strategies include saying, “Listen, you know, every day I need to have 30 minutes by myself at 6pm. Would it be okay if you look after the kids?” or “How about you go in that corner of the room and I’ll go in this corner of the room and we just read or put on our headsets and have our own space?” She observed, “I know people living alone wishing they were living with people, but there are also people that are living with others fantasising about being alone at this point. In either scenario, respectful communication with each other makes this a better time for everyone.” 7. Make your home a sanctuary Not intended as a slur on your colleague sitting in a Zoom meeting in front on her unmade bed, but Dr Saliha acknowledged, “As a psychologist who knows about science and research, I will tell you that if there is chaos on the outside, there’s going to be chaos on the inside as well. So if you want to feel calm and relaxed and have a soothing, comforting environment, you’re going to have to create it.” Sharing some of her own mood-enhancers, she revealed, “Every time I go to the grocery store, I buy fl owers because they evoke beautiful emotions, and make you feel calm. I always have tea with me, which I also fi nd very soothing. You want to create a feeling of, ‘I really like being here,’ because the reality is, we’re going to be at home for the next few weeks, and you want to enjoy them rather than just get through them.” 8. Stay in the moment The reason we’re all in the same storm but not the same boat is our mindsets. According to Dr Saliha, “People who are very future-oriented tend to have an anxious disposition, and people who are very past-oriented have a very sad or depressed disposition. What you want to do is bring it really back right down to this moment, where everything is okay, and we are safe.” Sharing a technique to help us ground fi rmly in the present, she continued, “A sentence that really helps me when I feel a little bit overwhelmed is to replace ‘What if?’ with ‘What is’. Ask yourself, ‘What’s the smallest step I need to take right now to get through this moment?’ And that might be, ‘I need to organise my desk right now,’ so I just do that and then I pick the next smallest step and the one after that. And the next thing you know, this will all be over and you will have got through it and grown through it.” This pandemic, as Dr Saliha pointed out, can also serve as a valuable lesson in perspective: “This is an experience that can either break you or it can grow you and transform you into a human being that is far more positive, appreciative, and grateful who emerges from this with more meaningful connections and a deeper faith in yourself.” ■ For more self-improvement masterclasses on Harper’s Bazaar Arabia’s Virtual Retreat, stay tuned to @harpersbazaararabia WORDS: ALISON T AY HBZ_147_042to043_DrSaliha_11281996.indd 4303/05/2020 01:11:36 PM44 HarpersBazaarArabia.com May 2020 The TALKING POINT Th e GR E A T IND O OR S From what they’ve learned about themselves whilst WFH to how they envision the brave new world that lies ahead for luxury, Bazaar asks 12 designers for their post-pandemic predictions… COMPILED BY : OLIVIA PHILLIPS Compiled by OLIVIA PHILLIPS HBZ_147_044to049_HomeOffice_11280624.indd 4403/05/2020 01:17:29 PMAlice Temperley “This situation we are all in, for me, has confi rmed what we knew before; that we all do too much. We currently try to please some unrealistic retail models to support wholesale which now needs to change. We need to do less collections and enjoy the process more. Appreciate it, spend more time designing it and more time wearing it. We need to slow our lives down and live in the moment. As for the brand, going forward it will be much more authentic, focusing on our core DNA and telling our story in a much more realistic way. You have to have a relationship with a brand, know why you wear it and know what it stands for. We all know to focus on the sustainability of fashion, who made it, what the fabrics are, and whether it will last.” “ W E N E E D TO DO LES S C O LLE C T I O N S A N D E N J OY T H E PR O C E S S M O R E . S P E N D M O R E T I M E D E S I GN I N G I T , A N D MOR E TI M E WE A R I N G I T ” 45 HarpersBazaarArabia.com May 2020 Elie Saab “During this time, I’ve been living with optimism. It was the right timing for me, since I never had the luxury to pause before, or to put my thoughts in order and redefi ne my aspirations, needs and expectations. This period has given me a certain feeling of gratitude. It’s a fulfi lling experience to cherish the details that surround us, to enjoy the quality of life and take more pleasure in our relationships. My intuition has never deceived me, and today I’m even more convinced that you have to be well-surrounded to give more to the world. Always on the hunt for self-innovation and challenges, I will continue moving ahead with hope and determination to nurture my inspiration and creativity. I really hope that many people have had the chance to assess their deeds as some had lost the notion of authenticity and simplicity. I believe now is the time to consider building a healthier, simpler and well-balanced future. As for fashion, that will no longer be the same. We will refer to before and after Covid-19. I was convinced that a change would happen sooner or later because the cycle was no longer human. The pace in our industry had become insane: we were working on several collections at the same time, we missed the chance of appreciating each one. We were under continuous pressure and lost the joy of living. The calendar we were following was crazy and barely gave us time to catch our breath; it was rather an endless race. We have to start again on the basis of favouring quality over quantity, creating brand-specifi c experiences, and giving back the product its real value. I really believe that today we are entering a new phase that is giving us the opportunity to set the record straight. We cannot ignore what we have gone through and we cannot go back as if nothing has happened. Luxury will now have a new fl avour as the customer has developed different aspirations during confi nement and this will lead to the innovation in luxurious items to respond to this new trend.” HBZ_147_044to049_HomeOffice_11280624.indd 4503/05/2020 01:17:38 PMKristina Fidelskaya “During quarantine, I have had a lot of time to refl ect. When things change, you start to understand what you had before. I miss going to the offi ce, creating and working with my team. I love what I do even more than I thought I did! The creative process has changed with the closing of our atelier and we’re being challenged as a company to step up and deliver as we adapt to the new normal. I am proud of my team and the responsibility they feel towards the label. Personally, I remain positive and optimistic. The fashion industry is making a big shift with the accepted norms and schedules being challenged for the fi rst time in 50-plus years. People’s values have changed overnight. Brands are questioning which costs are necessary and what it will bring them; from public relations to working with infl uencers and opening new boutiques. They’re questioning the speed at which the fashion industry worked; it was neither sustainable nor healthy, especially for most younger labels. Kristina Fidelskaya shows on-schedule during Paris Fashion Week, but with Men’s Fashion Week cancelled, who knows what will happen come September. We continue to do what we can and aim to be ready to participate in whichever form. At the end of the day, luxury isn’t a necessity, but somehow I believe people need it.” Ian Griffi ths Creative Director at Max Mara “I have been working from my cottage in the delightful Suffolk countryside. Before I start work each morning, I take my dogs for a walk on the heathland and then I tend to my fl ower garden. It has been a pleasure to watch the season unfold from day to day. Nature is teaching me a lesson; to take my time, to think things through – and to be more creative with colour. I have various desks and tables around the house and I move around to follow the light. I don’t need much in the way of materials, but I couldn’t manage without my coloured pencils. When this is over we will all face the task of rebuilding the world. How do you dress to do that? I believe that Max Mara’s creative philosophy – well- designed classics that allow you to show your best self – will be more relevant than ever. Max Mara is about clothes for a woman on a motorcycle mission. She’s a force of nature.” 46 HarpersBazaarArabia.com May 2020 HBZ_147_044to049_HomeOffice_11280624.indd 4603/05/2020 01:17:49 PM47 HarpersBazaarArabia.com May 2020 The TALKING POINT Wes Gordon Creative Director at Carolina Herrera “I’ve found that it ’s very important to have a routine when you wake up every day, whether it be simple things like making your bed. I tried my best to recreate my Herrera offi ce at home with pin boards and all my sketches – but of course, nothing beats being in the offi ce and working with my team in person. I miss the face-to-face collaboration, but we’re making the best out of Zoom and phone calls! I hope this will make the industry as a whole pay attention to creating only pieces that have meaning, purpose and reason for being. That, and a slower and more considered industry calendar that allows brands to create collections and pieces with integrity, and for customers to focus on buying the special pieces that truly bring them joy. Quality over quantity.” Rami Al Ali “I have learned that taking a pause to observe with stillness is the healthiest detox for my creative self; slowing down and rethinking the whole process and how I can make it more relevant to what’s to come. No deadlines have given me an immense amount of time to see clearly, analyse and enjoy. I think it’s too early to predict exactly will happen to the whole creative world after quarantine, but Harper’s Bazaar Arabia has been always the guiding light for the fashion audience and that won’t change. It will just have to guide in a different direction with a new perspective. The same goes for the whole fashion and luxury industry. It’s a communication tool – people won’t stop connecting and communicating, they will just use different vocabulary.” HBZ_147_044to049_HomeOffice_11280624.indd 4703/05/2020 01:18:04 PM48 HarpersBazaarArabia.com May 2020 The TALKING POINT Gherardo Felloni, Creative Director at Roger Vivier “During this time, I’ve learned to enjoy the simple, everyday things like gardening. I spend most of my time taking care of the plants in my vegetable garden. I’m here at my second home in Italy, on the island of Giglio, and I’m very lucky to be able to stay out in the open space. I am also getting the chance to really immerse myself in my hobbies; sometimes I cook and sometimes I sketch portraits and landscapes. As far as designers are concerned, I think it’s important that we continue to create, even in these diffi cult situations. I really believe our task right now is to share our dreams with the world. For the industry as a whole, there are defi nitely lessons that will be learned and I think that after this, people will consume more mindfully. We will take care of what we consume, how we do it and why. Maybe, in the end, we will need less and pay attention to what we buy and for what.” Giuseppe Zanotti “I’ve been thinking about silence for these past 30 days: no traffi c and noise. No shouting, just whispering. I have learned to listen to silence and to myself and I hope that this will lead to a new balance in life and in relationships with others once this nightmare is over. I’ve also had the chance to reconnect with people I haven’t seen for the last 30 years. Our life used to be so hectic that it was not easy to cultivate relationships or even look at our inner self... now, for instance, I sleep more and I dream more, something I did rarely before. This pandemic is playing an important role redefi ning fashion and consumer habits. The fashion business model was already showing issues; it runs too fast, with many ineffi ciencies that we can’t ignore anymore. We create far too many collections per year, and produce too many goods. It’s not sustainable! Now we have the opportunity to fi x the problem. We need to slow down and keep quality and real creativity as the main aim. Let’s focus again on creating beautiful objects, because beauty is an emotion that we will always need.” Georges Hobeika “The unexpected recent stillness has only reasserted my love and appreciation for my team, especially the atelier masters, many of whom have been constants since the brand’s inception in 1995. It has also been a time for refl ection and gratitude. It is unfortunate that this has had to come at a tragic expense to the world, but optimism is essential in times like these. All in all, it has been an opportunity to purify the overall process and return to the fundamental aspects that drew me to pursue this path: Creation. In these times of uncertainty, we go day by day. Haute Couture is immortal; its ammunition being its agility at responding to the economic and political climates. They say, ‘The fl ower that blooms in adversity is the rarest and most beautiful of all.’ Change is necessary and must not be resisted. I strongly believe this is a poignant time through which creativity will fl ourish – with sustainability at its heart. Underneath it all, luxury is a celebration of quality, no matter the form.” HBZ_147_044to049_HomeOffice_11280624.indd 4803/05/2020 01:18:13 PMOsman Yousefzada “I feel I can do with a lot less after this pandemic. I am very much looking into how I can streamline my creative process. This period has really helped me meditate, internalise and I think it’s made me more creative. After this, I am looking at creating a purely creative studio and outsourcing the production element. The Osman Yousefzada creative studio will be FASHION / PROJECTS / WORDS. I am also working on my fi rst public art project with a major retailer. I feel we need to use this pandemic pause-moment to really refl ect on our space on this planet, and I hope we have all learned that, going forward, we need to create a more sustainable environment. A kinder one.” ■ Tamara Ralph Creative Director at Ralph & Russo “The biggest learning that I will take away from all of this is that we need to think differently – this includes myself, our brand, and our industry generally. We need to rethink how we create, produce and consume, taking into account what’s necessary, how is it sustainable, how is it effi cient, and how are we as a company evolving with the world and acting responsibly. You can never be too comfortable; it’s important to be agile and be able to quickly pivot. Equally, on a personal level, I have also fully realised the power of positive thinking. It’s easy in a time like this to feel defeated, and despite it being a devastating global crisis, we have to see the silver lining and know that eventually it will pass, fi nd comfort that we’re all in it together, and learn from it. Everything is changing on a daily basis, and will likely continue to do so, but I feel strongly that many of these changes are for the better. While quite a few plans are up in the air, as we follow updates and act accordingly, what I do know is that we will absolutely be changing many of our existing business practices to be more effi cient, sustainable and mindful – as I touched on before. I think we will also see these changes across the industry, particularly the luxury-goods sphere. Not only because this time is an opportunity to refl ect upon what works and what doesn’t, but also because consumer demand is changing. As a company and as an industry, we must continuously evolve with it and be open to change if we want to have a promising future.” Mary Katrantzou “Every day that passes affects the way I think about our value system. By staying at home, protecting a whole community, it gives me so much hope for a more empathetic future. It’s made me appreciate how invaluable teamwork is, now more than ever, and how we can use our brand as a platform for practical good. We’d already shifted the brand’s direction since our last show in October at the Temple of Poseidon. That collection saw us join forces with ELPIDA Association of Friends of Children with cancer and we raised funds for them, using our show to send a message of hope and humanity. We also decided not to show during LFW this past February because it didn’t feel necessary to put a new collection out there straight after having shown in Greece. We focused our atelier on our made-to-measure orders and that has proven to be a more responsible way to work; designing less, but better. Fashion has always been refl ective of the times and reactionary. I’m optimistic that the future of fashion will evolve through the innovation of thought that will be the result of empathetic and visionary minds coming together as a collective.” 49 HarpersBazaarArabia.com May 2020 HBZ_147_044to049_HomeOffice_11280624.indd 4903/05/2020 01:18:23 PMNext >