< PreviousBvlgari Allegra Baciami Eau De Parfum, BVLGARI GME_011_78to81_Bulgari_13379022.indd 7801/10/2024 21:24Ancient Romans and Greeks bottled it as essential oil. Innkeepers used it as a component in ointments and wound dressings centuries ago. Today, the story of this essence begins where it is harvested WORDS MILLI MIDWOOD PHOTOGR APH Y CAMERON BENSLEY GRAZIAMA GAZINE. COM79 GME_011_78to81_Bulgari_13379022.indd 7901/10/2024 21:24IT’S A SCENT THAT’S VERY COMPLEX BECAUSE Deep in the Filipino jungle lies an ingredient that lives at the heart of so many of our beloved fragrances: elemi. Derived from the Arabic phrase ‘al lāmi’, meaning ‘as above, so below’, elemi is a resin extracted from a wild tree by incision of its trunk; it’s a spicy top-heart note with peppery, lemony, and incense-like facets used to bring freshness to many fragrances. Canarium luzonicum (more commonly known as elemi trees and locally known as the pili tree) are endemic to the Philippines and can grow as high as 40 metres. With the aid of some cutting tools, the secretion of its aromatic resin can be induced by chipping off parts of the bark, or ‘tapping’, as the locals call it. Th e communities who harvest elemi adhere to strict techniques, ensuring the trees are not tapped too early or too often, so they remain healthy, and the harvest is sustainable. Th e majority of the world’s elemi comes from this Southeast Asian country, meaning not only are these trees a source for a multitude of products including food, healing oils, and anti-ageing skincare, but they are also one of main sources of income for the local economy, which is where Bulgari comes into play. Th e Maison has embarked on a journey to ensure the long-term availability and excellence of elemi gum. “Our work in the Philippines looks at economic, social and environmental sustainability,” says Lucia Boscaini, Bulgari’s Brand Heritage Director. “Not only is our elemi project supporting a local family business, we’re also supporting the community; we have committed to planting 1,200 more elemi trees, which will create 25 new jobs for tree tappers.” Following the success of its Flower Gems of India initiative in 2019, Bulgari is deepening its commitment to sustainable fragrance production with the launch of Trees of Life: Th e Gems of the Philippines. Back in 2022, the Italian house partnered with fragrance house Dsm-Firmenich, a long-standing partner of the brand, and Filipino company R. Cielo Real Elemi International Exports, to build a distillery in the region of Batangas, to promote the responsible production of elemi essence. Th is eponymous distillery, founded and run by Renato Cielo, is now the biggest exporter of Manila elemi gum in the Philippines. An exercise in teaching us about the Filipino legacy through the lens of fi ne fragrance, Renato Cielo himself leads us into the humid, tropical jungle to discover how this resin is harvested. We look for the mature elemi trees only – ones that have seen at least fi ve summers – as if nature herself has bestowed them with the wisdom to concoct and create such a devilishly decadent scent. After making an incision in the bark a milky liquid starts to exude from the trunk. Th e liquid then solidifi es upon contact with air, and in my hand lies a semi-solid, pale yellow, waxy mess. Th e resin hardens over time, but the liquid needed by brands like Buglari to create fragrances is obtained through distilling the biomass. Th e IT’S A SCENT THAT’S VERY COMPLEX BECAUSE 80GRAZIAMA GAZINE. COM GME_011_78to81_Bulgari_13379022.indd 8002/10/2024 20:44WHEN YOU SMELL IT, IT’S SPICY BUT ALSO FRESH raw material is then transported to Renato’s distillery for this step to take place, before Renato’s team and family separate the essential oil from the aqueous phase by decantation. Th e Philippines produces more than 300 metric tons of elemi gum each year, which historically has been taken abroad to be distilled into essential oil. But Renato’s distillery allows the gum to be refi ned locally, simplifying the supply chain, and adding stability to the local economy. “If you think about farmers all over the world cultivating whatever ingredient or raw material it is they farm – be that cocoa or mangoes – they have to ship tonnes and tonnes of raw ingredients overseas,” Lucia tells me. “So I asked Dominique [Roques, Head of Sourcing at Firmenich], ‘How can we add value to these communities in a way that benefi ts them so they can acquire new skills and knowledge about local distillation?’ And now, with the support of Renato’s family and DSM Firmenich, instead of shipping, for instance, 20 tonnes of elemi gum, we only have to ship fi ve tonnes of essence.” Famed for its distinct aromatic complexity, elemi is a rich balsamic bouquet that paints vivid pictures of ancient apothecaries valued for their healing powers. Th e scent adds depth and complexity to a wide range of fragrances, including Bulgari’s Man in Black Eau de Parfum, and Allegra Fiori D’Amore. “It’s a scent that’s very complex because when you smell it, it’s spicy but also fresh, and that’s why I think women in the Middle East will love it,” says Lucia. “Elemi spices up a fragrance, and adds power and long-lastingness to it, which are all KPIs for our Middle Eastern consumers.” Nature’s generosity meets human ingenuity in this partnership. Bulgari’s Trees of Life: Th e Gems of the Philippines project helps to sustain local communities, add biodiversity and support reforestation, while providing amazing fragrances to the world. In a world dominated by factory farming and synthetic ingredients, elemi is exceptional: painstakingly hand-harvested, meticulously distilled and nearly impossible to duplicate. It’s a mysterious alchemy that transforms raw nature into intoxicating aroma. Th e exemplary trifecta f Bulgari, DSM Firmenich and R. Cielo Real Elemi International Exports are spearheading this fi ne fragrance evolution by demonstrating the vastness of Filipino farming through scent and storytelling. And who can resist the allure of a scent that tells a story? WHEN YOU SMELL IT, IT’S SPICY BUT ALSO FRESH GRAZIAMA GAZINE. COM81 GME_011_78to81_Bulgari_13379022.indd 8102/10/2024 20:44GRAZIA delves into the kaledioscopic world of Guerlain’s renowned lipstick, Rouge G, with Makeup Creative Director, Violette Serrat AN ICON REIMAGINED WORDS FRANKIE JABARKHYL Guerlain’s Rouge G lipstick has captivated beauty enthusiasts for over a decade. Renowned for its luxurious design and exceptional formula, this iconic lipstick has become a symbol of elegance and sophistication. Now, Rouge G is undergoing a transformative reinvention, off ering a new level of luxury and innovation, all thanks to Guerlain’s Makeup Creative Director, Violette Serrat. Just as a kaleidoscope reveals a mesmerising array of colours, the world of lipstick off ers an endless spectrum of hues. From bold reds and vibrant pinks to subtle nudes and shimmering metallics, the possibilities are endless. Each shade can transform your appearance, refl ecting your mood, personality and style. Especially when there are 40 hues, satin and matte fi nishes and customisable bejewelled cases to experiment with. Th is isn’t just lip colour – it’s a beauty statement. As Violette describes it, “Rouge G is a one-of-a-kind object, an endlessly customisable fashion accessory you can take with you wherever you go. A beauty talisman that nestles in the palm of your hand…” GRAZIA sat down with Violette to discuss the power of lipstick, the importance of colour and formula, and why even icons need a makeover. A LEGACY OF LUXURY “When I joined Guerlain, I went back to the archives to understand the brand DNA and what the founders really wanted. I looked at every product and asked myself, ‘Right, what should we keep? What should we change? What needs improvement?’ I did a 360-degree analysis of the whole brand,” Violette explains when asked why she chose to put her stamp on such a key product. “I wanted to play with Rouge G because it’s very iconic, but I wanted it to benefi t from today’s innovation. Although it was so innovative for its time, you can always keep improving. “Th e fi rst thing I realised we needed to change was the weight. Th e lipstick felt very heavy. Today, people do their makeup on the go. You want a bit of weight for it to feel luxurious, but you want that eff ortless on-the-go application. We were able to reduce the weight by 19%, which made a big diff erence. “Th en I thought, okay, gold is such an important colour for Guerlain; silver, not so much. So, I made a gold that was quite white and not very saturated, so it could work with any decoration. When it came to the actual cases, I wanted to do something really Parisian. Rouge G 520 Le Rouge Profond – Satin, Rouge G 518 Le Rose Blush – Satin, Rouge G The Ornaments Le Strassé Case, GUERLAIN 82GRAZIAMA GAZINE. COM GME_011_82to83_Guerlain_13391393.indd 8202/10/2024 20:41I don’t know if people realise how much leopard print is a thing for us [laughs], but leopard had to be one. We also added studs and an Art Deco design inspired by Guerlain’s archives.” But this wasn’t just about improving the look and feel of Rouge G, it was also about incorporating a precious eco-design – something incredibly important to Violette and the brand. “We didn’t just work on Route G to be better aesthetically, but also to be better from a sustainability perspective”, she adds. “We worked hard to improve the production process so we could reduce the CO 2 emissions by 30%, and each case has been designed to be refi lled.” A PROFUSION OF CARE Th e new Rouge G formula is a testament to Guerlain’s commitment to skincare. Enriched with natural-origin waxes and a unique lily oleo extract, the formula provides intense hydration and nourishment to your lips. Th e result is a lipstick that not only enhances your beauty but also cares for your skin. “Th e biggest challenge sat with formula. We really wanted to achieve naturality. Th at’s very important for Guerlain. But at the same time, I’m a makeup artist, and I didn’t want to sacrifi ce on performance,” Violette reveals. “I wanted to make it as natural as possible but to keep a payoff with extraordinary colours. I also wanted a matte eff ect, but one that glides onto lips and delivers the pigments all at once. All whilst being hydrating and comfortable. Th is was really hard to achieve, but thanks to natural waxes, sweet almond oil and lily fl ower, we found the perfect recipe. Th at’s the diff erence when you work for an incredible luxury brand – they have the best in class. I don’t think people realise how much of an innovation this is. It’s very impressive.” A KALEIDOSCOPE OF COLOUR “Red – the colour of universal beauty – is endless; it comes in so many diff erent shades… When you’re looking to create a beautiful red for lips, the slightest grain of pigment plays a part in the result. A drop of yellow or a touch of pink can change everything.” A symphony of shades awaits with Rouge G. Violette has curated a palette of 40 colours, including a spectrum of reds that epitomise Parisian elegance. From the bold and fl amboyant Rouge Vibrant 510 to the subtle nuances of other hues, Rouge G off ers a kaleidoscope of colours to suit every taste and occasion. Th is captivating palette of reds features seven velvet matte and seven satin variations. Each colour incorporates a unique blend of pigments, including the proprietary ‘Red G’ formula, which enhances depth and vibrancy. Th is innovative blend combines bluish-red and orange-red pigments, creating a truly exceptional red lipstick. “As a little girl growing up in Paris, I was surrounded by women who wore red lipstick,” Violette reminisces. “But they never wore it to seduce anyone or for anyone else – it was for themselves. Even if they went to the grocery store, they wore red lipstick. I remember watching these women just enjoying being women, and to me, that’s what lipstick is – it’s about celebrating who you are. People are often scared of bold colours, especially reds and pinks. But it’s important to remember makeup is not a tattoo. So, put on whatever colour excites you. Don’t think about what ‘fi ts’ you, and don’t overthink it. At the end of the day, it’s about how it makes you feel. You’ll feel good braving that new colour, so I invite people to really dare. And if you don’t like it, you can remove it. Th at’s the magic of makeup and the power of colour.” A STYLE STATEMENT “I envisioned these jewel cases for Rouge G as timeless pieces, like the essential elements of a perfectly curated wardrobe,” explains Violette. “Each case is a beauty charm, designed to be proudly displayed and treasured.” Th e refi llable Rouge G off ers nine customisable jewel cases, created in a chic, timeless style. Th ese cases are divided into three distinct families: Th e Timeless, Th e Ornaments, and Th e Patterns, each off ering a unique aesthetic so you can choose the case that perfectly complements your style and mood – whether that’s a classic croc fi nish, a bold animal print or a rhinestone-adorned case bound to steal the spotlight. So, embark on a journey of self-discovery through the kaleidoscope of Rouge G lipstick colours. Each shade has the power to transform your appearance, refl ecting your mood, personality and style. Experiment, explore and fi nd the shades that illuminate your unique beauty. Th e world of lipstick is your personal playground, waiting to be explored… Rouge G 510 Le Rouge Vibrant – Velvet, Rouge G The Patterns L’Écaille Case, GUERLAIN GRAZIAMA GAZINE. COM83 GME_011_82to83_Guerlain_13391393.indd 8302/10/2024 20:41GME_011_84to89_NewScentsOfDirection_13374743.indd 8401/10/2024 21:26As he steps back from his label, fashion luminary Dries Van Noten readily embarks on the unknown ahead WORDS PEMA BAKSHI NEW SCENTS OF DIRECTION In March 2024, Dries Van Noten announced he would be stepping down from the helm of his namesake label. Being just 65 years old at the time – springtime, compared to some of his contemporaries – the news confounded fans and the industry as a whole, who have come to rely on the Belgian designer as a consistent breath of fresh air. But, despite an emotional farewell, this moment is rife with possibility as he now turns his meticulous eye to the world of beauty. As the son of a menswear shop owner and the grandson of a tailor, Van Noten may have been born into the business of fashion, but it was his own fl air for texture and colour that pushed him to establish his eponymous label in 1986. When he and fi ve other Belgian designers travelled to Paris to showcase their creations, they quickly gained the moniker ‘Th e Antwerp Six’ – an association none of the designers has been able to quite shake, for better or worse. With orders immediately spilling in from major international retailers including Barneys and Whistles, he quickly became a household name, and the brand eventually found a home on the Paris Fashion Week schedule, where it remains today. But while his success and popularity have been unwavering, the reticent fi gurehead has evaded fashion’s limelight. Known as a ‘designer’s designer’ with an unorthodox aversion to the industry’s buzz, Van Noten is somewhat of a purist of the modern age, never buying into clever marketing schemes or tapping lucrative faces to drive sales. “I have always worked organically, driven by a commitment to authenticity,” he tells GRAZIA, touching on his distaste for the fl eeting trends and plays at virality that can dominate the industry. “I believe in letting the quality and craftsmanship of my products speak for themselves, rather than relying on temporary things and celebrity endorsements.” Even as fashion has fallen in and out of love with wearability and colour – two pillars of his brand – over the decades, Van Noten has never quite cared to do things any other way. Instead, his approach has always been methodical, rooted in a deep respect for the process of creation, and prioritising substance over spectacle. Whether it’s reimagining women’s suiting or blending an unexpected scent combination, his work is defi ned by a thoughtful consideration of how things will resonate with the world his customers inhabit. “I always look ahead,” he emphasises. “Creating is about leaving something that lives on. My sense of this moment is how it is not only mine, but ours, always.” It may seem antithetical to the fast-paced nature of the industry, but this commitment to meaningful innovation is exactly what makes the brand so unique in its success and quiet, albeit enduring, relevancy. Take his last ever runway collection: instead of a swan song rerunning his greatest hits, the designer employed a Japanese printmaking technique he had never used before. And as he got to working on concocting the recently launched beauty line, he extended this same fusion of bold creativity and meaningful refi nement to a collection of 10 distinctive scents. To create these blends, though, Van Noten required a blank canvas. “When I met the noses, I asked them to forget everything they knew about perfumery,” he recalls. “To create a perfume, you sometimes need to create distance. It was crucial that they dared GRAZIAMA GAZINE. COM85 GME_011_84to89_NewScentsOfDirection_13374743.indd 8501/10/2024 21:26this page, from left Raving Rose Eau De Parfum, Rock the Myrrh Eau De Parfum, Rosa Carnivora Eau De Parfum, DRIES VAN NOTEN BEAUTY previous spread Soie Malaquais Eau De Parfum, DRIES VAN NOTEN BEAUTY 86GRAZIAMA GAZINE. COM GME_011_84to89_NewScentsOfDirection_13374743.indd 8601/10/2024 21:26IM A G E R Y : P O R T R A IT P H OTO G R A P H Y C O U R T E S Y D R IE S V A N N O T E N GRAZIAMA GAZINE. COM87 GME_011_84to89_NewScentsOfDirection_13374743.indd 8701/10/2024 21:26Next >