< Previous30 | ATLAS BY ETIHAD | September 2024 EtA_11Sep2024_EN_30-37_Travel-Lisbon_13356189.indd 3026/08/2024 11:26lisbon - 38.7223° N, 9.1393° W September 2024 | ATLAS BY ETIHAD | 31 There’s more than meets the eye in the Portuguese capital – which is why this city should be your next travel destination By Joana Taborda Photography Gilby VM EtA_11Sep2024_EN_30-37_Travel-Lisbon_13356189.indd 3126/08/2024 11:2632 | ATLAS BY ETIHAD | September 2024 25 de Abril Bridge connects the city of Lisbon to the municipality of Almada EtA_11Sep2024_EN_30-37_Travel-Lisbon_13356189.indd 3226/08/2024 11:26lisbon - 38.7223° N, 9.1393° W September 2024 | ATLAS BY ETIHAD | 33 isbon draws you in with its pastel-coloured buildings, rattly vintage trams and those slightly addictive egg custard tarts. But look beneath the surface, and you’ll uncover creative workshops, a plethora of festivals and inviting gardens that off er a respite from the urban bustle. This is a city that’s pro at reinventing itself having been through earthquakes, political upheavals and fi nancial crises. Yet it still doesn’t cease to amaze with its resilient spirit, innovative cuisine and unforgettable cotton-candy sunsets. Over the last decade, the Portuguese capital has been revitalised thanks to a series of renovation projects and a surge of creative and tech spaces, all of which have contributed to a new wave of visitors. Remote workers have set up shop here and many have opened their own businesses; from specialty coff ee shops to ateliers and digital startups, infl uenced by major tech events like Web Summit, which takes over the city in winter. But Lisbon also appeals to visitors who can’t get enough of the sunny days, the tiled façades and its many more gems. Old meets new There’s a reason the old city remains a popular attraction. Its quirky charm is unlike any other place you will find so make sure to wander through Alfama, Lisbon’s historic centre, at least once. Even old-time residents like myself still find a sense of wonder in its maze of streets that withstood Lisbon’s 1755 earthquake. It is here that you’ll find the city’s oldest house at Rua dos Cegos and numerous casas de fado (traditional restaurants staging fado shows). Known as Portugal’s melancholic music style, fado is said to have been born in Alfama, making it a prime spot to catch a live performance. The queen of fado, Amália Rodrigues, is responsible for spreading the genre worldwide, and you can find her face depicted in a cobblestone pavement along Calçada do Menino Deus. Keep your camera handy to capture the vintage trams whisking L past the Sé, Lisbon’s oldest church, the castle looming over the hill and the endless tile façades you’ll spot along the way. If you want a look into modern Lisbon, however, venture west to Alcântara where an old textile factory has been turned into a creative village called LX Factory, home to artist studios, restaurants and one of the city’s coolest bookshops, Ler Devagar. Or head east to explore Marvila and Beato. Once the city’s industrial hub, these two districts are now home to breweries like Musa and Dois Corvos, cultural spaces like Fábrica Braço da Prata, Underdogs Gallery and 8Marvila, and an urban mushroom farm that repurposes coffee grounds. They even have one of Lisbon’s latest riverside kiosks, the Lamiré. Meanwhile, in Beato, a former army factory is slowly transforming into a tech and innovation hub. More than a base for new startups, the Hub Criativo do Beato is also attracting locals with its vibrant food market, A Praça, where you can stock up on fresh produce and sample Portuguese comfort food. Or you can join a lively theatrical dinner at Palácio do Grilo, a restaurant set in an 18th-century palace. Cosmopolitan fl avours We Portuguese love to talk food. Whether that’s our mom’s codfi sh cakes recipe, the daily menu at a tasca or our favourite pastelaria (pastry shop). If you’re looking for a place to eat, we’ll gladly point you in the right direction. Tascas are Lisbon’s traditional restaurants. This is where you’ll get your bacalhau à brás (shredded cod mixed in with fries and egg) or cozido à Portuguesa (meat stew). But over the last few years, new spots have emerged putting a modern spin on these classical dishes such as O Velho Eurico and Taberna Sal Grosso. The city’s culinary scene is also infl uenced by its diaspora made up of Brazilians, Cape Verdeans, Indians and much more. Martim Moniz, Arroios and Madragoa are where you’ll fi nd most of Lisbon’s international dining spots, while Chiado is home to several Michelin-star restaurants like Belcanto and Alma. To see up- and-coming chefs in action, book a ticket for Chefs on Fire, a festival held in the seaside town of Estoril, a 40-minute-train ride from Lisbon. The three-day barbecue party will have chefs cooking over a large fi re pit this month (20 to 22 September), making it a great summer farewell. EtA_11Sep2024_EN_30-37_Travel-Lisbon_13356189.indd 3326/08/2024 11:2634 | ATLAS BY ETIHAD | September 2024 EtA_11Sep2024_EN_30-37_Travel-Lisbon_13356189.indd 3426/08/2024 11:26lisbon - 38.7223° N, 9.1393° W September 2024 | ATLAS BY ETIHAD | 35 ETIHAD AIRWAYS OFFERS FOUR FLIGHTS PER WEEK TO LISBON ETIHAD.COM Clockwise from left: Santa Justa Lift; Part of the creative village, LX Factory; The city dresses itself with beautiful azulejos (hand-painted tiles) EtA_11Sep2024_EN_30-37_Travel-Lisbon_13356189.indd 3526/08/2024 11:2636 | ATLAS BY ETIHAD | September 2024 Clockwise from above: Estrela Park; Alfama is one of Lisbon’s only quarters where you’ll still fi nd medieval structures and quirky details Garden escapes If you need a break from sightseeing or simply want to escape the crowds, head to the nearest garden. Ask locals what their favourite park is, and they’ll likely point you to Gulbenkian. The serene gardens of this cultural foundation surround two museums: one dedicated to modern art and another fi lled with artefacts ranging from ancient Egypt to 19th-century French jewellery. Families love to hang around Jardim da Estrela, a semi- tropical garden dotted with cafés, while Tapada das Necessidades is a favourite spot for picnics. For hiking and cycling, don’t miss Monsanto, the city’s largest urban park. You can get there by bus or simply call an Uber, which will get you there in about 20 minutes. If you want to meet the city’s enthusiastic gardeners, you should catch Jardins Abertos. This annual festival with editions in spring and autumn opens the doors to Lisbon’s green spaces through guided tours and workshops. Keep an eye on their website to see when the next one is up. Creativity sparks In a city that dresses itself with azulejos (hand- painted tiles), it’s no surprise to fi nd artists at work. Lisbon has a long tradition of producing ceramics, and you can still fi nd ateliers dedicated to this craft like XVIII – Azulejo & Faiança and Cerâmica São Vicente. This last one hosts regular tile-painting workshops. But the city’s creative crew has more than just ceramicists. At Avó Veio Trabalhar, you’ll fi nd Portuguese grandmas at work, teaching crafts like crochet and embroidery to younger generations. Fica Ofi cina Criativa organises regular workshops dedicated to woodworking and screen-printing, and Drink & Draw takes you to the city’s coolest bars and cafés for a live drawing session. If you want to know the latest about Lisbon’s art scene, come for Lisbon by Design, an annual fair showcasing a selection of the latest Portuguese designs. Taking place around May, it includes an intimate trade show in a 19th- century palace, with pieces commissioned specifi cally for it. It is often tied together with Lisbon’s Design Week, which invites visitors to tour the city’s ateliers and studios. Some artists and curators open their doors more regularly, like Ofi cina Marques, famous for their repurposed wood installations, and Felipa Almeida, who presents thematic pop-ups combining traditional and contemporary pieces at her studio in Campo de Ourique. And if you’re looking for inspiration yourself, there’s no shortage of art museums, from the National Tile Museum, to Gulbenkian and the recently-opened MUDE. Lisbon’s design museum was closed for eight years and fi nally reopened in July 2024. The building will start receiving its fi rst temporary exhibits in October. Lisbon’s underground reservoirs have also been repurposed as cultural sites welcoming multimedia shows like the Immersivus Gallery and intimate fado concerts hosted by Real Fado. EtA_11Sep2024_EN_30-37_Travel-Lisbon_13356189.indd 3626/08/2024 11:26lisbon - 38.7223° N, 9.1393° W September 2024 | ATLAS BY ETIHAD | 37 It’s showtime Lisbon is known for its mesmerising light loved by photographers and fi lmmakers alike. Wim Wenders‘ Lisbon Story, released in 1994, is somewhat of an homage to the city before the tourism boom. Thirty years later, the city continues to attract fi lmmakers, not just as a picturesque location, but also as a place to promote new projects. Every year a number of fi lm festivals take over Lisbon’s remaining independent cinemas, attracting talents from all over the world. Indie Lisboa, which takes place in late May, hosts national and international competitions, along with live concerts and DJ sets inspired by the fi lms’ soundtracks. Doc Lisboa, coming up next month, focuses on documentaries. For lovers of animation, there is Monstra (late March), a favourite activity for families. Even throughout the year you can catch alternative fi lms at Cinema Ideal or travel back in time with Cinemateca’s scheduling of old-time classics. Magical sunsets There’s no better way to end the day in Lisbon than by witnessing the sunset. It may seem like a trivial thing, but it’s a cherished event for locals who regularly hit the city’s rooftops, or hunker down at one of the many miradouros (viewpoints) scattered across Lisbon’s numerous hills. For front-row views of the Neogothic Santa Justa Lift, head to the Carmo rooftop, which also hosts outdoor cinema sessions in summer. If you want to face the city’s castle, try Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara or Miradouro da Graça, and if you don’t mind sitting with the crowds, Miradouro de Santa Catarina is always a lively option. You can also catch the sunset by the riverside, along the steps in Ribeira das Naus or near the 25 de Abril bridge above the Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology (MAAT) in Belém. Another option is to hop on the ferry from Cais do Sodré to Cacilhas and capture Lisbon from the other end of the river tucking into some grilled fi sh at a place like Ponto Final, or book a sunset cruise with a group of friends and cheer to another day ahead. Born and raised in Lisbon, Joana Taborda is a travel writer who has spent her time exploring the hidden corners of her hometown. She has a passion for artisanal crafts, trends and events. EtA_11Sep2024_EN_30-37_Travel-Lisbon_13356189.indd 3726/08/2024 11:2638 | ATLAS BY ETIHAD | September 2024 Looking to add to your collection? We round-up London’s top fi ne jewellers By Sarah Buitendach TH E B EST O F EtA_11Sep2024_EN_38-44_Feature-London Boutique Jewels_13356173.indd 3825/08/2024 23:00jewels September 2024 | ATLAS BY ETIHAD | 39 IMA GE: GRIMA ARCHIVE; BENNIE CURNO W Fine jewels… how we love thee. These exquisite pieces, crafted with utmost artistry and using the fi nest gemstones, are more than just accessories – they are wearable works of art. A high-end jewellery collection acts as a refl ection of personal taste, can be a tangible investment, and often, a cherished heirloom. Luckily for collectors, the world of high- end jewellery is constantly evolving, with designers pushing the boundaries of creativity and innovation. Recent trends have seen a resurgence of classic styles with a contemporary twist, such as updated Art Deco motifs and minimalist elegance. Bold, statement pieces featuring large, colourful gemstones are also gaining popularity, while sustainable and ethical practices are becoming increasingly important to discerning buyers. London, with its glut of centrally located fi ne jewellery makers, means whether you saunter along to the Burlington Arcade from your suite or zip down to Chelsea, you’re in for a treat of top-tier trinkets (and even the odd tiara). Here, the Atlas team highlights a jewel box of local brands that produce pieces that shimmer with style and sophistication. Clockwise from left: 18ct yellow gold, amethyst crystal and diamond ring by Grima, 2019; Francesca Grima; 18ct yellow gold textured wire and diamond brooch by Grima, 1967; Andrew Grima Grima Grima is celebrated for its use of large gemstones, yellow gold and modern abstract and organic designs. Its founder Andrew Grima’s work has been the choice of stylish royals and celebs since the 1960s, and pieces can be found in collections at the Victoria & Albert Museum and the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths. Now based in Mayfair (visits are by appointment only), and following Andrew’s death, his wife Jojo and daughter Francesca continue the family business. They create a limited collection of 20 to 30 pieces annually and off er bespoke services and a selection of vintage Grima pieces, too. grimajewellery.com EtA_11Sep2024_EN_38-44_Feature-London Boutique Jewels_13356173.indd 3925/08/2024 23:00Next >