< Previous30 | ATLAS BY ETIHAD | November 2023 suitcase Major haul For autumn/winter 2023, Givenchy has presented a new take on its heritage handbag, the Pandora. These bags for men come in small or medium, leather or nylon and in black or khaki. A large version in camoufl age with distressed details, which was seen on the runways during fashion week, is available exclusively through the house’s made-to-order service (price on request, givenchy.com). Back to Bauhaus Montblanc has extended its Extreme 3.0 collection to include new bags available in a fresh hue called fern blue, including this duffl e. All pieces have been printed on a recognisable leather motif infl uenced by rational and geometrical visuals that were inspired by the Bauhaus style of the 1920s ($1,930, montblanc.com). Grand slam Italian tennis star Matteo Berrettini has co-created a collection with Boss, pieces of which he wore on the Wimbledon courts this summer. That included this statement- making duffl e bag fi nished with the oversized logo and striped trims in black, white and camel ($315, boss.com). Carry on Stylish duffl e bags that pack plenty of luggage BOSS; GIVENCHY ; MONTBLANC EtA_01-NOV-2023_24-31_Suitcase_13063110.indd 3001/11/2023 21:38November 2023 | ATLAS BY ETIHAD | 31 suitcase Have you had the packing panic before your trip? Worried all the time that you must have forgotten something, but can’t remember what it is? Here are three extra steps you should take to avoid last-minute surprises and save time on the vacation you’ve been waiting for. On your phone or notebook, create a checklist for every little thing you might need for a perfect trip. Don’t just settle for headlines, but be precise and don’t feel silly for mentioning how many pairs of socks you’d need, or for adding a list item for your gum. Don’t assume there’s anything you wouldn’t forget to pack, and just remember all the times you fl ew across an ocean without your phone charger. Laundry takes time. Shopping to fi ll in the gaps takes time. Trying on the outfi ts for your upcoming photographed memories takes time. Start packing one or two days before the trip so that you can get the missing items in one visit to the mall a day or two early, instead of wasting valuable time before the fl ight on several shopping rounds. Make an approximate plan of what you’ll wear during the vacation, pick the colours that fi t the locations on your itinerary, and pack according to this plan. This way, you can make sure what you’re wearing fi rst is easy to pick at the top of your bag. Every second is precious during a vacation, and digging deep for that shirt you’re “sure is packed” is not the best investment of your time. A few extra steps to save precious time before and during the trip Checklist? Check! Ahead of the Pack Picturesque timeline 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Efficient Efficient Packing Boosters EtA_01-NOV-2023_24-31_Suitcase_13063110.indd 3101/11/2023 21:3832 | ATLAS BY ETIHAD | November 2023 10.1632° N, 76.6413° E Beaches BackwatersBackwaters & Kerala, India’s tropical coastal jewel, has much to offer curious travellers By Francesca Kirby EtA_01-NOV-2023_32-38_Cover Story_Kerala_13052631.indd 3201/11/2023 21:27November 2023 | ATLAS BY ETIHAD | 33 10.1632° N, 76.6413° E he image of palm-lined beaches and verdant rolling grasslands sloping towards the Arabian Sea is seared into my mind after a four-hour fl ight with Etihad Airways into Cochin International Airport, situated in the Indian state of Kerala. As we descend, I peer out of the window to the scene beneath and I’m fi lled with anticipation to discover a land I’ve already heard so much about. Away from the busy streets of Mumbai and crowded Delhi, Kerala off ers a more laidback atmosphere, but one that is every bit as memorable. It’s known as God’s Own Country, thanks to its vast emerald valleys and lush landscapes. The term has a mythological origin, too, tied to the belief that Parashurama, a manifestation of Lord Vishnu, a principal deity in Hinduism, threw his axe into the sea to create a home in which his followers could live peacefully. If ever a story epitomises a place, it’s this one: Kerala, born at the hands of a God for the purpose of people living in harmony. Kerala is world-famous for its houseboats that plough the glistening backwaters, a labyrinthine 900-kilometre network of brackish canals, lakes Backwaters EtA_01-NOV-2023_32-38_Cover Story_Kerala_13052631.indd 3301/11/2023 21:2734 | ATLAS BY ETIHAD | November 2023 10.1632° N, 76.6413° E and lagoons that lie parallel to India’s south- western Malabar coast. But there’s far more to this tropical southern state. The geography of Kerala can be divided into three: the hilly highlands, the plains of the midlands, and the low coastal region. Within this, however, a patchwork quilt of landscapes come into view, from an evergreen forest buzzing with wildlife, to idyllic sandy beaches stretching as far as the eye can see. A brilliant green blanket of plantations also punctuates the scenery, playing an important role in Kerala’s rich tapestry of tourism attractions. A thriving spice industry The Malayali people live from the earth, with agriculture, forestry, and fi shing among the state’s main economic drivers. Tea, coff ee, and rubber, cultivated in the plantations on the sloping foothills, are its principal money makers, while nuts, grains, and pulses are also prized here. Spices, however, hold special signifi cance. Kerala’s spice trade dates back millennia. It can be traced as far back as 3,000 BC, when its people were doing business with the Babylonians. The Malabar coast later welcomed Arabs, Chinese, and European traders, and spices were the most wanted commodity. Today, it’s a multi-billion- dollar industry, as India is the world’s largest exporter of spices. The best time to visit a spice plantation in Kerala is between September and March, when the weather is milder and they’re ready for harvest. The plantations are split into diff erent areas for the From above left clockwise: A plantation worker waters the crops; elephants are revered throughout Kerala; the state’s landscape is varied and diverse EtA_01-NOV-2023_32-38_Cover Story_Kerala_13052631.indd 3401/11/2023 21:27November 2023 | ATLAS BY ETIHAD | 35 10.1632° N, 76.6413° E various spices being grown there. Pepper, or black gold, is grown in abundance, as it thrives in Kerala’s climate, yielding aromatic berries that are in great demand across the world. Malabar cardamom, meanwhile, has attracted seafarers for centuries, and its lemony scent still draws in international traders to this day. Cinnamon has a fascinating history. According to Kerala Tourism, the records show that thousands of years ago, when Malabar traded with Egypt, cinnamon was used in the embalming of Pharaohs and the manufacture of perfumes and holy oils. Another popular spice is clove, which has many uses, from fl avouring meat dishes to promoting dental health, and being added to perfumes and soap. All of these spices, as well as turmeric, ginger, mace, nutmeg, and vanilla, provide a delicious concoction of aromas across the plantations that will linger in your memory for days. A nod to the British If one crop was to be crowned the queen of Kerala, it would arguably be tea. It was in the 19th century, on the slopes of the Western Ghats, that the British A GREEN BLANKET OF PLANTATIONS PUNCTUATES THE SCENERY, PLAYING A ROLE IN KERALA’S RICH TAPESTRY OF TOURIST SPOTS EtA_01-NOV-2023_32-38_Cover Story_Kerala_13052631.indd 3501/11/2023 21:2836 | ATLAS BY ETIHAD | November 2023 10.1632° N, 76.6413° E realised India could be a producer, when they were competing with China’s trade. The weather, rich soil, and local know-how created a perfect combination for Kerala to reign supreme as one of India’s prime tea-growing states. Today, Idukki and Wayanad are the two largest producers. Idukki is where you’ll fi nd Munnar, a hill station about 1,600 metres above sea level that attracts tourists all year round, thanks to its cooler climate and a reputation as the hub of tea gardens and estates. In the 1870s, it became known to the outside world, courtesy of British businessman John Daniel Munro, who fell in love with the region’s beauty and leased out an area that had great potential for plantation crops. It wasn’t until 1880 that a British man called A. H. Sharp fi rst planted tea here. In Munnar, I visited the Lockhart Tea Estate, one of the oldest in the area, having been established in 1879. We took a 30-minute tour around the factory, where we learnt about the traditional methods they still use to produce tea, and the diff erences in properties and benefi ts between green, white, and black varieties, which are all cultivated on site. The factory also houses a museum that was built almost nine decades ago and takes us through the growth of plantations from 1819. It has a retail area, where you can taste the brews, and outside visitors can meet the ladies who hand-pick kilograms of tea leaves every day – and they’re some of the friendliest people we’ve come across. SHUTTERST OCK ( L OCKHAR T TEA E S T A TE) EtA_01-NOV-2023_32-38_Cover Story_Kerala_13052631.indd 3601/11/2023 21:28November 2023 | ATLAS BY ETIHAD | 37 10.1632° N, 76.6413° E Beyond tea and spice In the shade of tall, towering trees is where we fi nd the coff ee growing. Kerala’s cool highlands, where the temperatures are milder, Robusta and Arabica coff ee beans thrive. It’s also home to the Malabar strain that gets its taste from being exposed to moisture in a weeks-long process. Rubber has also propped up Kerala’s export industry for decades because of the warm, humid weather, and there are still plenty of plantations where visitors can see workers tapping and then slicing through the bark of the rubber tree to extract the latex. The stunning village of Koottickal in the Western Ghats is particularly famous for its rubber, as its valley is one of the fi rst places in India it was cultivated. A thick mist rises from the river valley in the morning, rolling down the hills towards the village. They call this the rubber-belt, and here tourists can stay at any number of guesthouses on plantations to experience a way of life that was ushered in more than a century ago – and hasn’t changed much since. Down on the coast From the highlands to the low-lying region, we move on to Kerala’s coconut palm-fringed coastline, which spans nearly 600 kilometres of the Arabian Sea. Kovalam Beach draws tourists in droves for a spot of sunbathing, swimming, and even catamaran cruising throughout the year. It encompasses three crescent beaches and a bay encircling calm waters, perfect for a little paddle. From budget-friendly inns to fi ve-star luxury hotels, Kovalam isn’t short of accommodation options, not to mention the range of cuisine available at the myriad restaurants. It’s also easy to get overwhelmed by the abundance of ayurvedic health resorts and yoga studios. About 60 kilometres north is Varkala Beach, which lies just outside of Varkala, a peaceful hamlet on the outskirts of Thiruvananthapuram. There’s much to love here beyond the shoreline, such as the elaborate, 2,000-year-old Janardhanaswamy Temple that stands on a cliff side overlooking the beach. Varkala is also famous for its ayurvedic massage centres. We keep moving northwards, towards Kochi, where an hour out we fi nd the more secluded Marari Beach, in the picturesque fi shing village of Mararikulam. Here, if you’re out at the crack of From above left clockwise: Lockhart Tea Estate in Munnar; the backwaters of Kerala; fi shing nets on the beach; local fi shermen in action EtA_01-NOV-2023_32-38_Cover Story_Kerala_13052631.indd 3701/11/2023 21:2838 | ATLAS BY ETIHAD | November 2023 10.1632° N, 76.6413° E dawn, you can watch the colourful fi shermen’s boats heading out to sea, only to return in the afternoon with fresh catch that’s served at local resorts and restaurants. Relics of a colonial past While the usual suspects of major hotel brands litter the shores and streets of Kerala, many colonial-era properties are also being restored in the area. These are remnants of the British Raj, when the British ruled over India from 1858 until its independence in 1947. Heritage hotels are particularly popular among affl uent visitors. Homes, palaces, forts, and even castles have been repurposed as tourist accommodation. Tea Bungalow, for example, is a charming boutique hotel in the heart of Fort Kochi. The bungalow was built in 1912 and run as an offi ce for UK company United Carpets, which Above: Elephant tourism is popular in Kerala, but not supported by everyone manufactured and exported coconut fi bre and spices. It was then taken over by tea company Brooke Bond in 1956 to house top management, a slice of history that gives it its moniker today. Now it’s run by the Dempos, one of the oldest families from Goa best known for their pivotal role in the coconut trade, and features a swimming pool, coff ee lounge, home theatre, and library. Elsewhere, the Taj Malabar Resort & Spa, Cochin, formerly known as the Vivanta by Taj – Malabar, is a fi ve-star hotel in Kochi’s Willingdon Island district, the largest artifi cial island in India. It was fi rst opened in 1935 by the British to accommodate ship passengers arriving at the port, including dignitaries and royalty, such as Queen Elizabeth II. It was taken over by the Taj Group in 1984 and is currently undergoing an extensive renovation, to be reopened in December. Kerala’s gentle giants From the moment you enter Kerala and see its state emblem, you’ll understand that elephants are considered auspicious here. The original reverence stems from the belief they are living forms of Ganesha, an elephant-headed Hindu god, but has since become a cultural obsession. For this reason, many visitors to India’s southwest coast head straight to Elephant Junction in Thekkady. This plantation is India’s largest wildlife sanctuary, where you can ride elephants and even bathe with them as they sprinkle you with their trunk. About a four-hour drive north, in Kaprikad, there’s also the Kodanad Elephant Training Centre, a riverside sanctuary for wild elephants, where safari tours and feeding sessions are on off er. Not everyone supports the use of elephants in tourism, however. While their capture was banned in India under the Wildlife Protection Act of 1972, keeping them in captivity has not been prohibited, and their increasing commercialisation often leads to violent incidents and even untimely deaths. Before you go to any elephant sanctuary or training centre, make sure you read reviews, as there are many reports of cruelty and malpractice among them. Every great journey must come to an end, and as my Keralan adventure came to a close, I was sad to leave. This is a place you fall in love with. The sights, the sounds, the smells, all linger in the memory for weeks, months, and even years. The sheer beauty of this part of the world will forever be etched into my mind’s eye. It helps to remember it’s less than a four-hour plane journey away from Abu Dhabi, because I know I’ll be back. ETIHAD AIRWAYS CURRENTLY OPERATES 20 FLIGHTS A WEEK TO KOCHI IN KERALA. DAILY FLIGHTS TO KOZHIKODE AND THIRUVANANTHAPURAM WILL BE ADDED FROM 1 JANUARY 2024. ETIHAD.COM EtA_01-NOV-2023_32-38_Cover Story_Kerala_13052631.indd 3801/11/2023 21:28Next >