< Previous90 February 2020 Follow us on InstagramFollow us on Instagram @CosmoMiddleEast @CosmoMiddleEast READ The basics Unless you’re using retinol to treat acne, you don’t need to start using it until your early thirties. “Retinol increases collagen production and reduces the breakdown of existing levels, which drop 1 per cent each year from the age of 25 onwards,” explains dermatologist Dr Justine Kluk. “There is no signifi cant benefi t of introducing it at an earlier age.” Not only that, but there are certain groups of people who should avoid it. If you suffer from eczema or rosacea, or are pregnant, “you may be better served by options such as peptides or bakuchiol (a plant-based retinol alternative)”, says Dr Kluk. Sensitive skins can use retinol, but be sensible: start with the lowest strength you can fi nd (0.01 to 0.03 per cent) and phase it into your routine gradually (twice a week) to see how your skin reacts. How to use it Retinol is a photosensitiser, which, as Dr Kluk explains, means it can cause unpleasant skin reactions if applied prior to sun exposure. Traditional retinol (more on that later) can also be “inactivated” by exposure to sunlight, reducing its effectiveness – which is why you should incorporate it into your night- time routine and always use sunscreen during the day. Google “retinol” and you'll come across the word “retinoid”. It’s the umbrella term for vitamin A in all its forms – but not all of them are created equal. Here’s the lowdown on the most popular retinoids… RETINYL ESTERS These are the gentlest retinoids, ideal for anti-ageing newbies and sensitive-skin types. Look for retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate and retinyl linoleate on the label. The name game RETINYL RETINOATE Labelled as the “new-generation retinol”, it delivers all the same benefits as prescription-strength formulas, but is less sensitising due to the fact it converts to retinoic acid at a slower rate on skin. Pricey, but worth it if you’ve got the budget. BAKUCHIOL So this technically isn’t a retinoid, but it’s used in tonnes of products as a natural retinol alternative. The plant-based ingredient has been shown to work in a similar way to retinol, but with fewer irritating side effects. RETINOL Can be found in many over-the- counter anti-ageing creams and serums. “Unlike stronger retinoids, once absorbed by the skin, retinol needs to be converted into retinoic acid to bind to the skin’s retinoid receptors and work its magic,” says Dr Howe. RETINALDEHYDE According to skincare brand and retinol specialists Medik8, retinaldehyde works 11 times faster than retinol. This is because it converts to retinoic acid more quickly, meaning you will see results sooner than you would with retinol. ADAPALENE This prescription medication is most commonly used to treat acne, says Dr Howe. It’s Retinol can smooth and brighten skin, replacing your acid toner In terms of your skincare routine, dermatologist Dr Sam Bunting recommends applying a pea-sized amount of retinol after cleansing (before moisturiser) every third night. If your skin reacts well, build up over a six-week period to every other night and, eventually, nightly. Sensitive skin? Dr Bunting suggests applying retinol 20 minutes after you moisturise, rather than directly onto cleansed skin. Look for formulas like her Flawless Nightly Serum, Dhs190, which includes niacinamide (along with retinol). This active ingredient boosts ceramides (which help skin retain moisture) and barrier function, making skin more adaptable to retinoids. These steps will prevent fl aking skin – a common side effect of retinol use. Once you’ve got the basics down, it’s time to streamline the rest of your routine. “Introducing one active ingredient at a time is much easier to manage and reduces the risk of irritation, as there’s only one variable at play,” advises Dr Bunting. This includes acid toners, which, as Dr Kluk explains, aren’t necessarily needed when retinol can smooth, brighten and reduce fi ne lines itself. Her ideal retinol skincare routine? A mild cleanser, soothing moisturiser, sunscreen and a vitamin-C antioxidant serum, switching the last two for retinol at nighttime. Simple.February 2020 91 Follow us on InstagramFollow us on Instagram @CosmoMiddleEast @CosmoMiddleEast Find YOUR perfect formula YOUR MATCH Dr Sam’s Flawless Nightly Serum, Dhs158, drsambunting. com Apply this to give your skin a major glow- up, thanks to a winning formula that includes niacinamide and azelaic acid (great for tackling spots). In the first month of use, you can expect to see a smoother texture, smaller pores and brighter skin. YOUR MATCH Elequra Radiance Accelerator Serum, Dhs331, elequra.com Say “thank u, next” to dark marks and acne scars with this powerhouse serum. Packed with 0.25% retinol, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid and niacinamide, it’ll make your skin more radiant than you can imagine. YOUR MATCH Olay Regenerist Retinol 24 Night Moisturiser, Dhs190, amazon. com Relax: you do not need Botox right this second. Instead, use this cream before bed to help soften the appearance of lines while you snooze, thanks to its combination of retinol and retinyl propionate (which sits in the gentler retinyl esters family). YOUR MATCH Dermatica.co.uk This website offers next-day delivery on prescription skincare through its expert dermatology team. Fill in an online consultation form and they will decide on the right treatment for you. There’s a monthly subscription package available, too. YOUR MATCH Dermatologist referral via your GP If acne is interfering with your life, book an appointment with your GP, who can refer you to an NHS dermatologist for further help. If you don’t want to wait, a private dermatologist appointment will set you back between £100 and £200. OK, SO WHAT’S GOING ON WITH YOUR SKIN? Hyper- pigmentation is taking over my face My pores are huge and my skin just looks… meh I’m seeing lines (like, a lot of them) Have you ever visited a dermatologist? I’M GETTING OLDER, SOSWHITEHEADS, BLACKHEADS, CYSTS – YOU GET THE IDEA… Yes, but the spots have come back No – I don’t know how to go about it Retinol alternatives Herbivore Bakuchiol Serum, Dhs198, revolve.com This plant-based wonder product delivers similar benefits to retinol – line reducing, brightening, smoothing – without any of the annoying side effects. It’s vegan- friendly and safe to use if you’re pregnant, too. Ole Henriksen Glow Cycle Retin-ALT Power Serum, Dhs340, amazon.ae This lavender-tinted serum combines bakuchiol and alpha hydroxy acids to fight fine lines, large pores and dark spots. It’s also enriched with edelweiss stem – an alpine plant that helps to prevent collagen loss and firm the skin. HYOUR MATCHY Find Y perfect I’M GETTIN READ UR mulaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa available online through Boots and Superdrug (look for Differin) if you complete a consultation, but we recommend talking to your GP first. TRETINOIN (RETINOIC ACID) You’ve probably heard of this under one of its prescription brand names, Retin-A. Retinoic acid (the active form of vitamin A) is supreme at fighting ageing and acne – but it’s very powerful, and only to be used if prescribed. Now you know the deal, answer these questions to meet your retinol match made in heaven… duc e u m esssssssssssssssssssssssssss um,mm,mmmm,m,m,m, mm,mmmmm,m,m,m,m, mm,m,mm,m,m,m,mmmmm,mm,m,mm,m,m,m,,mmmm,m,m,,,,,,,mmm,, ,mmm,,,,,mmm,m,,mm, ,,,,,,,,,,,, essssssssssssssssssssssssssssss c fig – p92 February 2020 Follow us on InstagramFollow us on Instagram @CosmoMiddleEast @CosmoMiddleEast DINE Date night hotspots You don’t need a special occasion to celebrate with a nice night out, but since Valentine’s Day is right around the corner (Us? Hinting? Never!) it’s a wasted opportunity if you don’t check out one of these venues ASAP VILLAMORE Emerald Palace Kempinski Make the most of Al Fresco dining this Feb at arguably one of the most Instagrammable spots in the region. If a classic dinner and drinks isn’t your thing, switch it up and propose a pool day with a spot of lunch by the sea. kempinski.com DUKES The Palm With dazzling views of Dubai Marina skyline, Dukes The Palm is offering guests the opportunity to have a romantic dinner at a table for two set up on the hotel’s private beach. Book now or forever hold your peace. barcelo.com MASTI COCKTAILS & CUISINE La Mer Legit one of Dubai’s best spots for next level Indian cuisine and exquisite cocktails. Kick back while gazing out at La Mer without a care in the world while experiencing a medley of fresh flavours backed by a symphony of moody music. mastidubai.com BABA The Westin If white tablecloths really aren’t your thing, head to the newly opened Turkish steakhouse at The Westin, Baba. Steak tartare, octopus, shellfish and a myriad Middle Eastern salads are among the menu’s highlights — some of which have a more classic aphrodisiac quality than others. baba-dubai.com 92 February2020 MA La Leg Ind ba a c a sy m TOP 10February 2020 93 Follow us on InstagramFollow us on Instagram @CosmoMiddleEast @CosmoMiddleEast DINE ANDALUCIA TAPAS & GRILL Jebel Ali Recreation Club Let your hair down at this Latin spot which serves up the perfect mix of signature cocktails, specialty Tapas & Grill dishes, a lively atmosphere, an energetic Latin band and a DJ – oh yeah, they have Salsa nights too! Found in the Jebel MARINA SOCIAL Intercontinental Dubai Marina A table next to the water in the Marina? Check. A variety of steaks cooked to perfection? Check. Desserts unlike anything tried before? Check. You can’t go wrong with lapping water, ambient music and delicious food for a first date. marinasocialdubai.com MINA BRASSERIE Four Seasons DIFC If you wanna get a bit fancy, MINA Brasserie serves a selection of delish dishes courtesy of award-winning celebrity chef Michael Mina. Tuck yourselves away at a private indoor table or bask in the DIFC skyline on the spacious terrace for a dining experience you’ll never forget. minabrasserie.com MINABBRRAAASS MESHICO Palm Jumeirah The Pointe – Block B If authentic Mexican food, flamboyant décor and a live Mariachi band is up your alley, you need to head to Meshico. Whether you chill outside while taking in the panoramic view of the Palm, or head upstairs to the bar with the most instagrammable wall, Meshico will be right up your street. meshico.ae THE LONDON PROJECT Bluewaters Picture this: a cocktail served fresh from a botanical garden and a killer view of the Dubai Marina skyline. What could be more romantic for a first date? Exactly. Pretty much nothing! thelondonproject.com LUIGIA Rixos Premium Hotel JBR Get Rome-antic at this authentic restaurant inspired by the passion, love and attention to detail that Italian grandmothers put into their cooking. With the freshest imported ingredients from around Italy, a pizza station that is the beating heart of the venue, and homemade gelato worthy of Naples, this gorgeous little spot is a must. try. luigia.ae Ali recreation club, this is one carnival not to be missed. andaluciadxb.com MESHICO94 February 2020 Follow us on InstagramFollow us on Instagram @CosmoMiddleEast @CosmoMiddleEast TRAVEL travel WE HAVEN’T BEEN EVERYWHERE, BUT IT’S ON OUR LIST The Most Insta-Worthy Escapes You Need to Visit This Year The Cosmo-approved places to travel in 2020 WHERE...Cappadocia, Turkey STAY AT…Artemis Cave Suite in Goréme. Or find a cute Airbnb; most of them are super cosy, which is perfect if you’re travelling in winter. DON’T LEAVE WITHOUT...Visiting the Open Air Museum, riding across the city in a hot air balloon and exploring the abandoned caves (pretty spooky, but definitely worth the experience). GET ME THERE...The UAE flies direct to Istanbul, and from there you can arrange a hotel pickup that’ll take you to Cappadocia. CAPPADOCIA T U R K E Y W H ER E ?February 2020 95 Follow us on Instagram @CosmoMiddleEast TRAVEL STAY AT… InterContinental Carlton Cannes. You’ll be rubbing shoulders with just about every celeb you could imagine. Bonus points for being approx. 27 steps away from the beach, too. DON’T LEAVE WITHOUT... Having a night out at Bâoli. Not only is it the most popping spot in town, it’s where all th famous peeps hang out. GETTING THERE... Change at either Paris-Charles De Gaulle or Nice Côte d’Azur Airport. STAY AT… The Edition for absolute laid-back luxury. This is the Pinterest property of dreams. GET ME THERE... OK, we’ll be honest, UAE to Bodrum is a bit of a mish because STAY AT...There a whole bunch of super cute boutique hotels and Airbnbs – you are totally spoilt for choice here. DON’T FORGET TO PACK... A good pair of flat shoes for plenty of walking during the day. Stop in every quirky café and cute restaurants before taking a stroll through the splendid and plentiful streets of downtown Beirut. GETTING THERE... Easy peasy. Emirates, Etihad and Fly Dubai all fly direct to Rafic Hariri Airport. there are no direct flights. We hopped on the uber affordable Pegasus Airlines and endured a small layover in Istanbul Airport. r amam CosmoMiddleEastCosmoMiddleEast W H O ? e d i t o r in c h i e f MILLI MIDWOOD BEIRUT L E B A N O N W H ER E ? CANNES F R A N C E W H ER E ? BODRUM T U R K E Y W H ER E ?96 February 2020 Follow us on InstagramFollow us on Instagram @CosmoMiddleEast @CosmoMiddleEast TRAVEL STAY AT… Anse Royale, Mahe DON’T FORGET TO PACK... Lots of swimsuits. Honestly, packing anything else is basically a waste of time and suitcase space. DON’T LEAVE WITHOUT... Taking a day trip to La Digue, where you can rent a bike and cycle around the whole STAY AT… Dewi Sinta, located within Tanah Lot Tourist Destination. Balinese beauty at its best! DON’T FORGET TO PACK... Sunscreen, lots of sunscreen. Make sure you have travel insurance. Rabies can be an issue with stray dogs and you’ll have to get treated quickly in the event of a bite. GET ME THERE...Emirates has a direct flight to Denpasar, and it’s only 9 hours. Winning! There are plenty of taxis available at the airport – have local currency on hand. STAY AT…Kyoto Garden Palace. Right in the heart of Kyoto city, in front of Hamaguri- Gomon, you’re able to STAY AT… A cute little Airbnb close to the waterbus station. DON’T FORGET TO PACK...Anything that cuts a particularly romantic silhouette. Think ruffled dresses, puff sleeve tops and floaty skirts in forgiving fabrics. DON’T LEAVE WITHOUT... Renting out a gondola for the day – duh! It’s the only way to take in the tangle of canals and basically pretend you’re in a Bond movie. GET ME THERE... Fly into Rome and either take a connecting flight or a four- hour train ride through the country. island. We also recommend kayaking around the crystal clear waters of Anse source D’argent in a bottomless boat. It’s bound to be one of the coolest experiences you’ll ever have. GET ME THERE... You’ll touch down on white sandy beaches and azure waters in less than five hours from the UAE. experience each of the seasons of Kyoto Imperial Palace in relaxing and quiet surroundings. DON’T FORGET TO PACK... Really good walking shoes. Kyoto is the perfect city to take a leisurely stroll (and get that step count in) and if you want to get around a bit faster, definitely rent a bicycle. Keep a jacket on hand since the weather can be unpredictable. GET ME THERE... I’ma level with you... If you have days to kill in transit and you don’t mind airport hopping, then you can make the trip all the way by air. HOWEVER, a more enjoyable route is to fly to Narita International in Tokyo then take the three-hour Shinkansen (bullet train) to Kyoto. Trust me. MAHE KYOTO W H O ? JESSICA COMBES a s s i s t a n t d i g i t a l e d i t o r W H O ? NINA OKI j n r . a s s i s t a n t e d i t o r VENICE I T A L Y W H ER E ? S E Y C HE L L E S W H ER E ? J A PA N W H ER E ? TANAH LOT B A L I W H ER E ?February 2020 97 Follow us on InstagramFollow us on Instagram @CosmoMiddleEast @CosmoMiddleEast TRAVEL STAY AT… Rezidence Vyšehrad - it’s like an Airbnb but better. It’s located in the quieter parts of Central Prague, which makes for a totally tranquil escape. It’s also a stone’s throw away from a lovely little park, which was made for lazy afternoon picnicking. DON’T LEAVE WITHOUT... Visiting the John Lennon Wall and snapping some pics of the colourful graffiti. GET ME THERE... It’s a seven-hour flight from the UAE, then just a 30 minute cab to your accom! STAY AT… The Abu Dhabi Edition. Situated in the downtown district, overlooking a beautiful waterfront, it’s the perfect way to stay in the city without all the hustle and bustle. DON’T LEAVE WITHOUT... Going to Saadiyat Beach STAY AT Eastside Cottages in the country-side of Penicuik, Edinburgh. It’s cute, cosy and (most importantly) serene. DON’T FORGET TO PACK... Lots of jackets. Lots of socks. And as many portable heaters that you can fit into your suitcase. No, really - Scotland’s cold. You’ll want to stay warm and comfy when hiking the green Pentland Hills, or strolling through Victoria Street A.K.A Diagon Alley from Harry Potter!!! GET ME THERE... Getting to Scotland is an easy direct eight hour flight on Emirates, but getting to Penicuik is another story. You’ll need to hire a car to reach your digs — totally worth it though. W to Club or Zaya Nurai Island. They’re both breath-taking beach locations and your Insta feed will thank you after. GET ME THERE... No sweat at all. It’s a one hour drive from Dubai. Yay! W H O ? SARAH AL HUMIRI s o c i a l m e d i a & v i d e o e x e c EDINBURGH S C O TL A N D W H ER E ? ABU DHABI U . A. E . W H ER E ? PRAGUE C Z E C H R E P . W H ER E ?98 February 2020 Follow us on InstagramFollow us on Instagram @CosmoMiddleEast @CosmoMiddleEast this? THE THROWBACK JANUARY 2000 The blond highlights, that key change, those gelled quiffs… we’re not sure how, but it’s been 20 years since ballad-kings Westlife released their cover of ABBA’s I Have A Dream and became the first No1 of the Noughties. It was a simpler time, when watching five Irish lads rise in unison from their stools created more euphoria than Lizzo twerking on stage and preaching self-love affirmations. The band (minus Brian McFadden, who made the poor decision to quit in 2004) has sold over 60 million records and had 14 UK No1s. Plus, with new album Spectrum released last November, the dream is far from over. Westlife became the first No1 of the Millennium WORDS NICOLA FAHEY. PHOTOGRAPH AVALON LICENSING RememberNEW POWDER POWER LIPSTICK All the mattes you need.Next >