< PreviousSurrounded by ancient mosaics, LAUREL MUNSHOWER finds a Turkish hotel that turns the historical holiday on its head THE MUSEUM HOTEL FIRST REVIEW Antakya Imagine setting out to build a straightforward five-star hotel, then realising that beneath your plot of land in Turkey’s southern-most province of Hatay are the remains of a Roman city dating back as far as 2,300 years. That’s what happened when the Asfuro lu family were in the early stages of a new property that was simply meant to offer travellers somewhere plush to stay within easy reach of Antakya’s top tourist sites: the cave church of St Peter, the Hatay Archaeology Museum and the old town, all within walking distance. That was in 2009, and what followed was not only the construction of the innovative Museum Hotel Antakya, but the most important archaeological excavation in the area since 1930. Some 30,000 artefacts were excavated, such as glassware, coins and jewellery, around 400 of which will be on display in the hotel’s interconnected Necmi Asfuro lu Archaeological Museum, named for the family patriarch and slated to open this month (it will have an entrance separate from the hotel but will be complimentary for those staying). Once you familiarise yourself with Antakya – which you may know better as biblical Antioch and the Roman Empire’s third-largest city – it’s hardly surprising that there were archaeological treasures hidden beneath the planned hotel site. Around Hatay you’re confronted with something old and interesting at every turn, thanks to its rich religious history and position on the Fertile Crescent; the Hatay Archaeology Museum displays the region’s ancient mosaics, the largest collection of the decorative art anywhere in the world. You’ll find a couple of the area’s most impressive mosaics within The Museum Hotel itself, part of a 17,000sqm archaeological site. Making up the ornate floor of a Roman agora, a 4th-century CE mosaic spans 1,050sqm, making it the largest ever found. And several years into the excavation, the team were surprised to find another mosaic, delaying the hotel’s completion an additional year and a half as they uncovered it and had to rethink how to work the hotel around it. This mosaic is the one I laid my eyes on first as I entered the hotel, on display beneath a glass floor in the lobby – mythical Pegasus being prepared by nymphs for Bellerophon’s wedding, in remarkably complete and fine condition even though it dates back to the 2nd century. From a historical point of view, it stands out as it includes the artist’s signature, a highly unusual feature. Then there are the 5th-century Roman baths (look for the pipes that once allowed hot water to flow beneath and warm marble hammam floors), and yet another mosaic from a Roman villa of the same century that features Megalopsychia (magnanimity) surrounded by striking renditions of birds including peacocks, herons, hawks and pheasants – coincidentally, the hotel’s founding-family name, Asfuro lu, also means “bird”. Elements of this mosaic are woven throughout the hotel’s design, which is as modern as the site is old. In the lobby, light falls through bird cut-outs in the ceiling, while charming bird statuettes decorate spaces all around; in guest rooms, a reproduction of the Megalopsychia mosaic adorns the wall above the bed. February 2020 Condé Nast Traveller 71 CNT EXCLUSIVE famed künefe. Be prepared for another tableful of mezze for breakfast at rooftop Sefahat, complete with gorgeous views to St Peter’s. Still to come are poolside Seyri Alem for lighter bites and shisha, and trendy Sixty Six (named for the number of columns in the hotel) with a bar and al fresco terrace. This is just the start of your experience. I spent two non-stop, jam-packed days exploring Hatay and feel like I but scratched the surface. With an experienced guide like Selda Kuruo lu (0090- 532-344 4220) helping out, we wound through Antakya’s old-town streets lined with charming cafés and bountiful citrus trees, stopped in mosques and churches, nibbled on local fare in the bazaar and visited the beautiful old home of Antik Cam Evi, where glassblower Sadi Asfuro lu keeps a museum of antique glass and creates original, historically inspired new pieces that make excellent souvenirs. Shortly outside of town heading into Hatay’s mountains, see the last Armenian village in Turkey, largely agricultural though with a complex history, and the pretty Harbiye waterfalls that were once an escape for the affluent in the Roman era; the cascading waters are said to be the tears of Daphne, who was turned into a laurel tree here to escape besotted Apollo. Then move to the shores of the Mediterranean where the country’s longest beach, Patara, is a big summer draw. The Museum Hotel will draw you in for its historic riches, but you’ll find yourself staying for so much more. Doubles from AED 650; 0090-326-290 0000, themuseumhotelantakya.com Clockwise from top left: Details in a bedroom; the hotel’s archaeological site; mezze at Ayan Meyan; in the hammam. Opposite: The modern exterior of the hotel Designed to sit above the ancient site without disrupting it, the hotel is perched on 66 steel columns, each carefully placed around the dig. Atop these lie a warren of open-air walkways and struts holding up the lobby, five F&B venues, a ballroom and meeting rooms, a spa and fitness centre, and 200 guest rooms and suites. Rooms are suspended above the site like chic container boxes, 38 with views overlooking the excavation from their balconies while others look out to the surrounding city and snow-dusted mountains. Inside, the cosy spaces feature geometric style and cool, earthy tones, with parquet floors, a spacious sitting area in even the entry-level rooms, and a marble bathroom with mosaic-like stained glass. Wooden ceilings and wardrobe doors are reminiscent of the style of the area’s traditional homes. Larger suites include dining areas and kitchen niches, while VIP families and their entourages seeking privacy can exclusively book the Nas Konut penthouse, a private corner of the property with up to four bedrooms that include a 750sqm suite – bigger even than the Presidential Suite. There’s plenty beyond the history here. Head to Balans Spa, where a decadent Turkish hammam experience will leave your skin feeling as soft as the day you were born following a session of scrubbing, being encased in a silky lather and rubbed with locally made defne (laurel tree) oil. Or book into one of six treatment rooms, one reserved especially for facials and another for Thai massages. The gym offers state-of-the-art fitness with rooms for yoga and spinning classes, while two pools – one indoor and one out (the latter to open soon) – tempt for a soothing dip following a day of exploration. Hatay is also a UNESCO City of Gastronomy and The Museum Hotel doesn’t skimp on its offerings. Overlooking the excavation on the lobby level, Birdy is a laid-back sports bar and café (try the plump manti – Turkish dumplings – soaking in a savoury yogurt sauce), while Ayan Meyan buzzes with crowds in the evening for gourmet takes on local dishes – pace yourself as you dip fluffy fresh Turkish pide into never-ending rounds of mezze, saving room for well-seasoned, succulent kebabs and ending sweetly with Antakya’s “A COUPLE OF ANTAKYA’S MOST IMPRESSIVE MOSAICS ARE FOUND RIGHT IN THE HOTEL’S 17,000SQM ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE”ALICE HOLTHAM finds a modern take on traditional Emirati heritage and hospitality at the Palm’s latest luxury address DUBAI THE PALM FIRST REVIEW Andaz Upon entering Andaz Dubai The Palm it’s clear that among a sea of boldfaced big-hitters on the city’s coveted Palm Jumeirah, this hotel is doing things differently. It forgoes the futuristic, neutral feel that many of its five-star neighbours favour, instead opting for a more colourful, textural aesthetic. The airy, atrium-like lobby floods with natural light thanks to boundless windows that stretch from floor to ceiling, while soft furnishings covered with Dubai’s skyline and desert landscapes are welcome pops of colour in bright hues of pink, teal and yellow. This kaleidoscopic colour palette extends to décor where, staying true to Andaz’s brand ethos of celebrating local arts and culture, regional artists have created much of the artwork and design elements, drawing inspiration from the UAE. A colourful woven carpet inspired by the Bedouin art of Sadu embroidery welcomes guests in the lobby, while a captivating glass structure of birds in flight, a nod to falconry heritage, serves as a centrepiece. Embracing local heritage and moulding it for a modern audience extends to the hospitality. Guests can check in while sitting comfortably on cushy sofas, aided by friendly staff offering refreshments. A hydrating glass of infused water and freshly baked sweets are flavoursome extras available to all guests as they pass through the lobby. Adding to the gracious welcome, each guest receives a beach bag with a sunhat and flip flops to help embrace the warm weather. My Andaz Suite is spacious with an amalgam of traditional heritage influences and modern amenities. Brash isn’t in the lexicon, the décor instead favouring dark wood furniture accented by traditional calligraphic artworks in incandescent hues of turquoise and orange. The bed boasts a wooden headboard that curls up to canopy over its sleepers, a reference to tented Bedouin accommodation. A cut-out in the middle allows natural light to flood into the room from an entire wall of windows that gaze out on to the busy streets below. Everything is cleverly concealed; the in-room compendium is disguised in a woven embroidered box (another nod to traditional Emirati arts), while a walk-in closet comes with ample storage for long-stay guests. It’s a decluttered space to ensure a decluttered mind that can switch off and enjoy the experience. In the bathrooms, lotions are hotel-exclusive blends made using traditional Middle Eastern aromas like cardamom, amber and ginger – and where February 2020 Condé Nast Traveller 73 CNT EXCLUSIVE broken that include “no social media” – it feels like I’m heading back in time, and when I reach the bottom I feel transported to an underground bar of New York’s yesteryear. A dimly lit venue with plush leather seating, KnoX serves up sultry jazz as an accompaniment to evening tipples. While there was no live music during my visit, a small stage with a microphone indicates it’s soon to be introduced. Completing the dining line-up and touted to begin welcoming visitors this month is Japanese street-food restaurant Hanami. Occupying an enviable spot on the hotel’s 15th-floor rooftop, it promises Japanese cuisine peppered with international influences. What strikes me most at Andaz Dubai The Palm is the warm neighbourhood feel, from the welcoming embrace of local artists and the friendly way staff execute formalities, to the focus on sourcing local ingredients and being eco-friendly. It all leads me to forecast this hotel will stand the test of time, just as ancient Arabian heritage has. Doubles from AED 599; 00971-4-581 1234, hyatt.com From top: The infinity pool; El Boutique; chef Gani’s Home Style Chicken Curry; stylish bathroom details. Opposite, from top: The hotel lobby; an Andaz Suite bedroom possible, amenities are packaged in plastic alternatives. Even the hotel hallways serve as galleries, each decorated with Arabic calligraphy in warm, bright tones. For all-day sun, adults can retreat to Cabana, the 14th-floor adults-only pool that links the two-tower property. Co-designed by local artist Khalid Shafar, it boasts an LA-rooftop vibe. Teal sun loungers surround the azure waters of the temperature-controlled pool, shaded by white-curtained cabanas that offer maximum privacy. At each corner of the water, palm-tree-inspired parasols are circled by plush cushions, or for a cooler spot, pull up a stool at the shaded bar for a fruity mixed drink. On the same floor, a fitness centre is well- equipped with TechnoGym gear, and at Ora Spa, steam rooms, saunas and relaxation areas, plus four treatment rooms – one for couples – serve as the setting for a calming session that could include a cleansing facial, indulgent massage or rejuvenating scrub or wrap. A family-friendly pool and Jacuzzi are found a breezy two-minute walk through landscaped gardens. Shared with the neighbouring residences, there are ample loungers for everyone, whether it’s poolside lounging or beachside escapism you prefer. Though not yet ready during my visit, beach-club concept La Coco is planned to open after summer. Currently, meals are mostly had at The Locale, although both Cabana and underground-bar KnoX offer a small menu of hearty bites. Locale by name, local by nature, the hotel’s eco-friendly passion extends to its part-restaurant, part-concept store. Shelves are filled with handmade pieces created largely by local designers, while the culinary team sources as much produce regionally as they can. The olive oil is made especially for Andaz at a family-run estate in Amman, fruit and veg come predominantly from Greenheart organic farm in the UAE, and The Fish Farm is where executive chef Laurent Pommey sources organic Atlantic salmon, freshly plucked clams and local sea bream. Laid out like a marketplace, Locale is home to a deli counter with to-go items targeted at local residents, a daily-changing salad bar, in-house bakery and two main kitchens (Asian and Western). The menu is a fusion of cuisines: Try playful interpretations of traditional Arabic flavours, like the Josper-grilled eggplant slathered with tahini sauce and topped with pine nuts and gremolata, and avocado hummus served with local prawns. When I return for breakfast the following morning, salads have been replaced with fresh fruits, the bar is stocked with smoothies and juices rather than spirits, and the bakery is helmed by a friendly chef who chats as she cooks pancakes and waffles to order. The Asian section remains, serving traditional Oriental breakfast dishes, while the Western kitchen churns out variations of eggs alongside the usual breakfast-buffet items. Above The Locale, Andaz Lounge is a playful, unconventional take on a traditional workspace. As well as all the necessary facilities for working on-the- go, it features an eclectic collection of seating options, striking artwork and textured interiors designed to be touched. Designed by creatives, for creatives – it’s a space for inspiration. For post-dinner drinks with a speakeasy feel, I head down into the basement to KnoX bar. Descending the stairs – having been briefed on rules-made-to-be- “CELEBRATING LOCAL CULTURE, REGIONAL ARTISTS HAVE CREATED MUCH OF THE ARTWORK AND DESIGN ELEMENTS, DRAWING INSPIRATION FROM THE UAE”74 Condé Nast Traveller February 2020 WHERE TO ROAM INTERVIEW: FRANCESCA BABB; PHOTOS: SHUTTERSTOCK DAVID MAYER DE ROTHSCHILD The LA-based environmentalist and youngest Brit to ski both poles shares his top addresses ECO-HOPPING WITH... REYKJADALUR HOT SPRINGS Iceland In Iceland there’s an incredible culture of going to hot baths. Instead of “I’ll see you down the pub”, it’s “I’ll see you down the hot baths”. The cheesiest one, which a lot of tourists visit, is the Blue Lagoon, and I would highly advise not going. Instead, there’s this thermal river about 25 minutes outside Reykjavik. Hike in the middle of winter, snow all around. It’s freezing. Then – because you probably won’t see anyone there – take your clothes off and jump in the boiling-hot water. It’s that bliss of “thanks nature”. GRO SPISERI Copenhagen You can go to a restaurant and put food in your mouth, or you can have an experience. This place on top of a building in the middle of the city is an experience. Walk across a rooftop garden, where the core ingredients are grown, and sit in a greenhouse at a big farm-style table. You’re eating with people you don’t know and after a couple of glasses of grape, everyone is chatting and things are flowing. I’m a veggie, so everything I ate was grown right here. It’s a really fun little spot. Two-course menus from AED 95; 0045- 52-22 2879, grospiseri.dk COOKBOOK Los Angeles This is a local grocery store and it’s more expensive than the supermarket, so it’s a luxury for sure, but everything is seasonal and unpackaged. In LA, we have access to some of the best farmers’ markets, especially the further you go up the coast: amazing farms and fresh ingredients. So it’s really nice to have a place that does all the hard work for you and curates its produce – plus, you don’t come out feeling like you’re drowning in plastic. 001-213-250 1900, cookbookla.com AMANKORA Bhutan With five hotels around the Kingdom, Aman was one of the first big hotel groups here. Many other chains opening up don’t have the sensibility these guys have. It’s a high entry point, quite elitist, but one of my best hotel stays. Ever. A favourite moment on my trip was meeting this monk who said he had a Facebook page. I took some photos and sent them to him and he was so happy. All these monks on smartphones – Mark Zuckerberg killed Buddhism! Doubles from about AED 5,695; 00975- 2-33 1333, aman.com/amankora LAKE CABIN, RESCHIO Umbria Back in 1994, the Bolza family bought a country estate on the border with Tuscany. There were about 50 derelict farmhouses across the property and a rundown castle; beautiful, but holes in every roof. Since then, a lot of time has been spent restoring them. Rent a cabin next to the lake, surrounded by oak forests with wolves and deer, and eat listening to the sound of frogs. Nic Fiddian-Green, who did the horse-head sculpture at London’s Marble Arch, has created sensational works all around. Price on request; 0039-075-84 4362, reschio.comYOUR OASIS OF TRANQUILLITY AND LUXURY IN OMAN 18TH NOVEMBER STREET MUSCAT SULTANATE OF OMAN +968 24 52 4400 CHEDIMUSCAT@GHMHOTELS.COM GHMhotels.com STRENGTHS WEAKNESSES PRICE CONTACT ROOMS Impeccable service, a beautiful garden and a well-equipped fitness centre; the spa features pre-Hispanic techniques Becco serves Italian cuisine, while Pan Dulce pastry shop combines traditional Mexican bread with French pastries; Zanaya’s Sunday brunch includes bottomless glasses of French bubbly and Fifty Mils is ideal for evening cocktails The hotel’s large size makes walking around time-consuming; bathrooms could be more spacious Doubles from AED 1,950 200 rooms and 40 suites feature high ceilings, marble bathrooms and contemporary décor with abstract patterns and bold fabrics; many overlook the courtyard’s formal garden of fruit trees, tropical plants and artworks DÉCOR LOCATION CLIENTELE In historic Paseo de la Reforma, near the main business, shopping and residential areas; steps from Chapultepec Park and Castle and the National Museum of Anthropology Spanish Colonial-style architecture built around a quiet garden courtyard inspired by Chapultepec Castle; a recent refurb by French design-duo Gilles & Boissier showcases a classic yet contemporary look Discerning world travellers for a weekend getaway FOOD & DRINK Paseo de la Reforma 500, Colonia Juarez; 0052-55-5230 1818, fourseasons.com Doubles from AED 695 Great location, exceptional concierge, friendly and helpful staff; the traditional Temazcal ceremony at the Away Spa is a must-try 252 is the only restaurant, and puts out a brilliant breakfast buffet as well as a dinner that includes authentic street food that’s elegant yet playful; The Living Room bar mixes the most innovative cocktails in town No pool (there is a whirlpool in the spa); Wi-Fi is free only for Marriott Bonvoy members, otherwise in-room service is AED 37 per day Favoured by international business travellers and local businessmen; elites from the creative industry and four-legged guests The 237 rooms are quirky and fun, equipped with an infinity mirror, fashion photography, mood lights and bathrooms with Bliss amenities; the Extreme WOW Suite is kitted out with DJ equipment and two rooftop terraces Campos Eliseos 252, Polanco; 0052-55-9138 1800, marriott.com A trendy, playful and sexy masquerade theme throughout; the nightclub-like lobby features Driade Nemo armchairs, a glass staircase and an illuminated bar Located in the glitzy Polanco district, known for upscale shopping, chic restaurants and nightlife spots WORDS: VINCENT WANG; PHOTOS: FOUR SEASONS, JAIME NAVARRO, CHAD BATKA FOUR SEASONS HOTEL MEXICO CITY Glamour Five places to base yourself in this MEXICO CITY W MEXICO CITY Social The Ritz-Carlton will rise its lion flag in Mexico City this summer. The 153-key luxury hotel will be located on floors 36 to 47 of a 58-storey tower at the heart of the city’s financial centre. It will be the very first high-rise hotel in the city and will feature unobstructed views of Chapultepec Park. Within, guests can expect a spa, pool, fitness centre, club lounge and a Mediterranean restaurant and bar concept. ritzcarlton.com UP IN THE AIRFebruary 2020 Condé Nast Traveller 77 No typical restaurant inside but many authentic dining venues and chic coffee shops nearby Lower rooms may hear noise from the kitchen; some decoration details are not well presented Doubles from AED 480 The eight rooms are named after personalities, dates and places that are significant to the local area Hidden in Villa Coyoacan, one of the city’s oldest neighbourhoods, walking distance from Museo Nacional de Culturas Populares, Museo Frida Kahlo and Centro Coyoacan Younger travellers – think millennials and hipsters Interior designer Jan Dirk Kinet brings a fresh, bohemian atmosphere through saturated colours, eclectic antiques and costume fabric; it has the tranquil, genteel charm of a colonial-era mansion throughout 1A Cda Belisario Dominguez 16, Coyoacan; 0052-55-6363 7176, pugseal.com Great location, cheerful design and an oasis for sun-bathing, afternoon naps and reading Doubles from AED 1,300 Feels like a private residence; personalised host service for every hotel guest Two restaurants include Anatol for seasonal, gourmet farm-to-table cuisine; at Dulce Patria chef Martha Ortiz specialises in festive and traditional Mexican cuisine in a modern environment Breakfast options are limited; no pool On Polanco’s chic Presidente Masaryk Avenue, an exclusive area home to designer boutiques, restaurants and nightclubs Media-shy celebrities seeking an urban retreat; design-hotel godfather Ian Schrager is a regular Behind its sleek, ultra-modern glass façade is a Yabu Pushelberg-designed interior of dark wood, leather, marble, bronze screens and contemporary artworks; a stunning spiral staircase connects all seven floors Each of the 35 rooms include custom-made rosewood furniture and Italian bed linens; the spa-like bathrooms are filled with SCO Care NYC amenities and locally handmade soaps. Suites and the penthouse have their own wraparound terraces and museum-class modern art Avenida Presidente Masaryk 390, Polanco; 0052- 55-3300 3939, lasalcobas.com Doubles from AED 910 Stunning design, a cosy vibe and residential feel; it’s a successful mix of the traditional and the contemporary A kitchen serves a home-cooked breakfast using ingredients from local markets; cocktails are served at 5pm daily. You can dine in-room or under the orange tree in the garden Making merry isn’t easy as outside beverages are not allowed to be brought in, and the honour bar is only available from 7-10pm In the upscale Colonia Roma neighbourhood where leafy streets are lined with art galleries, boutiques and Neo-Classical, Art Nouveau, Art Deco and contemporary mansions Designers, architects and couples for romance Combining a 1913-built estate house and an ultra-modern expansion by architect Fermin Espinosa and designer Andres Gutierrez; designer furniture is by Eileen Grey, Eero Saarinen, Serge Mouille, Sean Dix and James Tan Jalapa 208 B Colonia Roma Delegacion, Cuauhtémoc; 0052-55-2121 0966, ignacia.mx Each of the five rooms are named for their dominant colour and theme – Rosa, Azul, Verde, Amarilla and Negra – and are equipped with chic furniture, a Bose Bluetooth sound system and Loredana toiletries artistic and foodie capital PUG SEAL COYOACAN BOUTIQUE B&B LAS ALCOBAS FoodieDesignBoutique IGNACIA GUEST HOUSEGOLF TO A TEE Whether you’re a putter or a driver, Maxx Royal Belek Golf Resort is a player’s paradise TRAVELLER PROMOTION S et in the southern Mediterranean gem of Belek, Turkey, Maxx Royal Belek Golf Resort is located on the azure waters of one of Antalya’s most enchanting bays. In a town known for its beaches, thermal springs and immaculately manicured golf courses, the resort’s 531 villas and suites provide comfort in a distinguished and elegant atmosphere. The property’s 18-hole course, Montgomerie Maxx Royal, bears the footprint of legendary golf players such as Martin Kaymer and Colin Montgomerie. Sumptuous, newly renovated villas situated on the golf course grounds provide round-the-clock service, accommodating up to 12 adults and spanning up to 630sqm. For additional privacy, the Owner Villa is secluded among trees close to the course’s rolling greens. Days can be spent going from the course back to the villa where guests can plunge into their own private heated pool, warm up in the bubbly Jacuzzi, wind down in the Turkish bath or ease muscles in the sauna after a long day of putting. For more information please call 0090-242-444 6299 or visit maxxroyal.com After testing your drive shot, head to one of seven dining destinations and embark on a journey through the flavours of the East and West. Discover the Orient with piquant Anatolian fare at Azure Turk, voyage to the Mediterranean with succulent seafood at Azure Fish or travel to the Far East with refined bites at Azure Japon. Adding to the resort’s epicurean roster is the new restaurant Gastro by Alfredo Russo, helmed by the Michelin-awarded Italian chef. Putting a modern spin on centuries-old Italian classics, Russo employs locally sourced ingredients to create innovative renditions of handmade pastas, masterfully grilled meats and fresh legumes. For cosmopolitan style incorporating privacy, comfort and gastronomy, this is a golf paradise that everyone can appreciate. From top: Inside the Presidential Villa; dining at the resort; chef Alfredo Russo. Opposite, from top: Albatross Villa; Montgomerie Golf CourseNext >