< PreviousWhen vegetarian-friendly cities come to mind, Manila isn’t usually high on the list. But the sprawling capital of the Philippines has a clutch of restaurants with dishes to hearten any herbivore, finds SANJAY SURANA PHOTOS: SHUTTERSTOCK V E G E T A R I A N I N M A N I L AFebruary 2020 Condé Nast Traveller 51 FOOD Clockwise from top left: Bahay kubo at Toyo Eatery; inside Test Kitchen; mangoes for sale in the streets of Manila; bamboo and squash at Gallery by Chele; the exterior of Manam; a traditional boat docked in Manila Bay; vegetables at a local market. Opposite: A dish at Test Kitchen GETTING THERE Emirates (emirates.com) and Etihad Airways (etihad.com) fly non-stop to Manila from Dubai and Abu Dhabi CORNER TREE CAFÉ This former private home, with its roof painted green, retains the look and ambience of a country cottage, no small feat given its prime Makati business-district location. Comforting interiors feature wooden benches, bar stools and a chalkboard listing daily specials for this pan-global vegetarian menu. Highlights include peanut-sauced kare-kareng and the hearty rice dish arroz a la Cubana. Entrées from AED 20; 0063- 2-8897 0295, cornertreecafe.com GALLERY BY CHELE An open, organic space – seats made of knotted grey wool, tables with bases that look like tree trunks, stoneware crockery – this restaurant run by Spanish chef José Luis “Chele” González resides on the fifth floor of a commercial building. Dishes mine the flavours of the Philippines and Southeast Asia, served à la carte or as a tasting menu, which might offer plates such as a gazpacho-like combination that melds creamy tofu, guava, the herb pansit-pansitan and ginger. Entrées from AED 42; 0063-917-546 1673, gallerybychele.com MANAM With a handful of locations across the city, this Filipino comfort-food chain serves up local dishes in traditional or contemporary form. This is the place to try vegetarian versions of classic fare like the addictive sour soup sinigang, tokwa’t baboy (a piquant pork dish made here with tofu) and the winged green bean gising-gising, washed down with a tall glass of ube, a milkshake made from purple yam. Entrées from AED 12; 0063- 2-7625 0515, momentgroup.ph TEST KITCHEN Run by the accomplished chef Josh Boutwood, Test Kitchen just moved to a new location in the high-end, mixed-use Rockwell Center. It’s now split over two levels, serves lunch and dinner, and no longer requires reservation, though the multiculturally influenced menu remains. Local products are used as much as possible and are theatrically staged. Vegetarian dishes might include cabbage, pecorino and sourdough- miso, heirloom tomatoes served with basil and fermented tomato jam, and a dessert of cooked cream, bee pollen and honeycomb caramel. Set menu from AED 70; 0063-977-288 5751, joshboutwood.com.ph TOYO EATERY Set at the back of an office plaza, this cool, concrete restaurant with wooden tables, lamps like bird cages and a large open kitchen draws Manila’s cool crowd for its multi-course tasting menus of updated Filipino fare. The vegetarian versions, also on request, feature tomato meringues made with local chili and moringa oil, Calabasas squash soup with cashew butter and sweet potato, and bahay kubo, a dish with 18 vegetables inspired by a Filipino folk song. Set menu from AED 115; 0063-917-720 8630 MIDDLE EAST Around the Meydan’s grandstand and racecourse. Opposite: A desert hack with Al JumoohFebruary 2020 Condé Nast Traveller 53 The equestrian culture in the UAE runs rich and deep, and whether you’re a spectator or a rider there are many ways to experience it HORSING AROUND WORDS: LAUREL MUNSHOWER BEACH RIDING With our endless sea of dramatic dunes, a desert ride is what many seek to experience while in the region – but let’s not forget about the tranquil aquamarine shores of the Arabian Gulf, which are ideal for a gentle trot or invigorating canter. To ride an Arabian or Andalusian along a quiet shore in Abu Dhabi, Beach Horse Riding (beach ride AED 525; 00971-50-292 8347, horsebeachriding.com) offers a stable of friendly and surefooted equines for waterfront adventures – some of the outings even include the chance to swim with them. Each mount has been rescued and lovingly rehabilitated, the care resulting in sociable, trusting and well-trained creatures who are now living their best life frolicking at the water’s edge. DESERT HACKING Ditch the wheels for hooves on a desert hack. A number of desert-based hotels in the country offer the opportunity to amble through the dunes on horseback, but for a proper desert hack, it’s better to look to stables such as the Emirates Equestrian Centre (hacks from AED 250; 00971- 50-558 7656, www.emiratesequestriancentre.com), past Al Qudra and on the road to Bab Al Shams. Riders should be relatively skilled, with the ability to confidently control a horse and walk, trot and canter. Generally taking place at either sunrise or sunset, take your pick of horizon hues as you explore Dubai’s more natural side. DRESSAGE No other part of the equestrian world puts on a show quite like dressage and for those interested in the sport, the group to keep an eye on is the UAE Equestrian and Racing Federation (uaeerf.ae) based out of Abu Dhabi. Regulating the sport throughout the country, check its calendar for upcoming competitions, including the UAE National Dressage Championship, which tends to take place each April in the capital. If you’re looking to finesse your own skills in the arena, Al Forsan in Abu Dhabi is a British Horse Society-approved centre with an academy that includes both dressage and jumping clinics for all ages (dressage lessons from AED 330; 00971-2-556 8555, alforsan. com). Learn to piaffe, pirouette and traverse like a pro with BHS-qualified instructors. ENDURANCE RIDING A favourite of HH Sheikh Mohammed and Crown Prince Sheikh Hamdan is a lesser-known form of racing called endurance riding. The UAE royals have competed globally and the Dubai ruler has done much to shine a spotlight on the sport, which involves long- distance, controlled racing over courses as long as 160km (though the Mongol Derby extends an astonishing 1,000km), something at which Arabian horses excel. In Dubai, the big events are the HH Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum Endurance Cup in January, and the Dubai Crown Prince Endurance Festival, a series of races that take place in March. The Al Jumooh Equestrian Club (00971-50-107 7102, aljumooh.ae) in Al Awir can train you and your horse up. Expect months of preparation as you and your steed gradually work up your speed and distance, being conditioned psychically and psychologically under the watchful eyes of professional riders, coaches and veterinarians. From top: Riding along the beach with Al Jumooh; dressage at Al Habtoor Polo Resort & Club. Opposite, from top: Sella restaurant at Dubai Polo & Equestrian Club; Al Jumooh stableFebruary 2020 Condé Nast Traveller 55 AROUND THE MIDDLE EAST KIDS’ LESSONS If you have a child that’s been itching to ride, the younger you get them in the saddle the better. The Dubai Polo & Equestrian Club (lessons from AED 200; 00971-4-361 8111, poloclubdubai.com) is well-equipped to take on children and beginners who are at the very start of their riding careers. In addition to learning the basics like mounting and giving cues, instructors will teach them how to tack, clean and groom horses. Plus, mum and dad can relax over some nibbles on the terrace at one of the club’s restaurants while the little ones learn. POLO Polo may be seen as a sport for aristocrats (and, true, playing it is something of an investment) but anyone can enjoy it as a spectator sport. And if the action on the field isn’t enough to keep you entertained, the breezy afternoons with friends under blue skies with a tasty lunch close at hand should be ample entertainment. Special annual events – like the fun-filled Beach Polo Cup (beachpolocup.com) at Skydive Dubai and Pink Polo (pinkpolo.ae) to support and raise awareness of breast cancer at Ghantoot Racing & Polo Club in Abu Dhabi – offer a wide range of reasons to give the sport a try, while the more invested can check out games most weekends at places such as the Dubai Polo & Equestrian Club and the Al Habtoor Polo Resort & Club (alhabtoorpoloresortandclub.com). The latter is also where Dubai’s prestigious Polo Gold Cup (dubaipologoldcup.com), globally ranked as a World Polo Tour Championship Cup, takes place in February and March with a series of tournaments that pit high-handicap 18-goal players against each other. 56 Condé Nast Traveller February 2020 AROUND THE MIDDLE EAST RACING The most-high profile of all of the Emirates’ horsey activities is its horse-racing, which primarily takes place at the 1.6km-long Meydan Grandstand. Each year, crowds gather here throughout the October to April racing season (dubairacingclub.com), with the January to March Dubai World Cup Racing Carnival being the main event. Its 10 race meetings are filled with high-profile horses and jockeys from around the world, and culminates in the famed Dubai World Cup – the world’s richest day of racing with an AED 128mn purse. Aficionados may be interested to join a stable tour, which starts with breakfast at Farriers Restaurant in The Meydan Hotel, from where you can watch horses train on the track, before making your way to the stables where you’ll meet a trainer and his fleet-footed friend, sharing a thorough run-down of grooming, conditioning and preparation for racing. The tour is rounded out with a behind-the-scenes look at Meydan Grandstand, including the jockeys’ room – by the time it’s said and done, you’ll arrive at the World Cup with a whole new level of insight on who to root for. SHOW JUMPING The Sharjah Equestrian & Racing Club (serc.ae) is where many accomplished show jumpers in the country get their start. Technically advanced trainers and riding instructors will help get new and aspiring jumpers off on the right hoof, with a stable filled with a variety of ponies and horses suitable for all ages and abilities. When it comes time to compete – or even simply watch – the centre hosts two international show-jumping events, as well as being home to six national jumping events. Riders and spectators alike will be thrilled with competitions that include lofty jumps and series of fence jumping, each obstacle getting higher than the last. A family day out, some of the events include kids’ corners and pony rides for the little ones. “GOING ON A RIDING SAFARI IS A DREAM FOR MANY EQUESTRIANS, BUT YOU DON’T HAVE TO GO TO AFRICA TO DO IT THANKS TO ABU DHABI’S ISLAND WILDLIFE RESERVE” THERAPEUTIC RIDING Started in 1998 when HH Sheikha Hassa bint Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum donated a trio of horses to be used for therapeutic purposes, the Equestrian Association for People of Determination (eapd-dubai.ae) helps children with physical and developmental issues. Under this programme, riding helps the children develop abilities – physical, cognitive and emotional – and lessons include warm-ups to help improve stretch and balance and activities that highlight motor skills, memory and sensory abilities, in addition to basic riding skills such as holding reins, steering and walking. As the lessons focus on the therapeutic, more advanced riding skills will not factor into the experience, but the end result aims to encourage a more confident and self-assured child – while being fun for all involved. WILDLIFE RIDE Going on a riding safari is a dream for many animal-loving equestrians, and if you’re one, you’ll be pleased to learn you don’t have to go all the way to Africa to do it. Abu Dhabi’s Sir Bani Yas Island is home not just to a wildlife reserve but an excellent stable of well-trained steeds (wildlife rides AED 625; 00971-2-801 5400, visitabudhabi.ae). Reserved for more experienced riders, you’ll saddle up for a 90-minute to two-hour ride into the wildlife park where you’ll get to rub shoulders with its inhabitants. Linger by insouciant cheetahs, canter down paths past giraffes nibbling on shrubs and be careful to steer clear of moody ostriches. It’ll get you even closer to the wildlife than the usual 4x4 drives and leave you with wild memories. Beginner and intermediate riders can also grab the reins for a turn around the island, but are kept to easier dune, bush and beach rides outside of the wildlife reserve. Dubai Polo & Equestrian ClubA SEA OF BLUE Ranked third in the world for the most Blue Flag-certified beaches, there’s an eco-conscious side to Turkey’s turquoise waters R enowned for its glamourous coastal cities and azure waters, Turkey is home to a plethora of world-class beaches, 463 of which are recognised internationally with the Blue Flag certification. A distinguished eco-label trusted around the globe, the Blue Flag is accorded to only the most pristine and environmentally protected beaches across the world. While countries across the globe aspire to earn the name, beaches undergo a rigorous judging process to ensure they’re Blue Flag-worthy. Certified areas must meet a series of criteria that encompass environmental, educational, safety and access- related factors to pass the test. Turkey’s coastline is dotted with Blue Flag-certified beaches – from the Turquoise Coast in Antalya to the beaches of Muğla, Balikesir, Izmir and Çanakkale, travellers are spoilt for choice. In addition to the crystal- clear waters, the Turkish coast is home to lush forests, ancient cities and flavourful local cuisine. Further afield, the Blue Flag certification has also been awarded to beaches on the Black Sea coast, although the Aegean and Mediterranean seas remain the shining pearls of the deep blue, touting the most Blue Flag beaches in the country. See our pick of its finest coastal destinations. TRAVELLER PROMOTIONTRAVELLER PROMOTIONBUTTERFLY VALLEY This postcard-perfect cove is a valley hidden between the walls of a steep canyon. Named after its large population of colourful butterfly species, Butterfly Valley remains an untouched haven where electricity is limited and the only forms of accommodation are beach tents and bungalows. Accessible solely by boat, the cove’s seclusion has spared it the disenchantment of mass tourism. In 1987 the area become a nature preserve, protecting the native butterflies and their natural habitat. Come here to swim all day in the calm waters or follow one of the hiking trails to discover the valley’s hidden depths, all the while accompanied by your fluttering friends. ÇIRALI About an hour’s drive from Antalya, Çıralı is a relaxed beach destination surrounded by breathtaking mountains. Visitors can voyage back in time at the nearby ancient town of Olympos, a popular site for backpackers and young travellers. While the area is void of any major resorts and hotels, quaint abodes and bungalows are found around the area, making for a cosy stay. Spend time lounging on the beach, visiting the ancient ruins, or hike up Mount Olympos to witness the eternal flames of Chimaera, a natural phenomenon best seen at night. TRAVELLER PROMOTIONCLEOPATRA BEACH Named after the fabled Egyptian pharaoh Cleopatra, this beach in Alanya is a legend in its own right. Cleopatra is said to have sunbathed with Roman general Marc Anthony on the beach’s golden sands, which are rumoured to have been brought from Egypt. The two-kilometre beach is next to another must-see attraction, Damlataş, a mysterious cave full of staggering stalactites. DATÇA One of Turkey’s seaside port towns, Datça is an ancient trading hub that’s now home to laid-back beaches, old villages and a tranquil atmosphere. Located where the Aegean and Mediterranean seas meet, the Datça Peninsula touts several Blue Flag-certified beaches. Here, enjoy the luxury of swimming right in the city centre, where the Taşlık, Kumluk and Hastane Altı beaches are found. Explore the town further by heading to Old Datça to roam the cobblestone streets lined with historic stone houses. For a more secluded stay far from the centre, idyllic coves such as Ovabükü, Palamutbükü, Hayitbükü and Kızılbük are found scattered across the area. İÇMELER Near the lively town of Marmaris you’ll find İçmeler, a calm bay surrounded by pine forests. Once a quaint fishing town, İçmeler has recently catapulted to summer-hotspot status thanks to its crystal-clear waters, fine sands and serene shores. An ideal spot for water sports due to the calm waters, other adventures to be had include hiking in the nearby canyon and boating to discover the surrounding bay. ILICA BEACH In local favourite Çeşme, Ilıca Beach is a two- kilometre stretch of white sand and turquoise waters. Ilıca is also known for its mineral-rich thermal springs rising from the shallow sea bottom. Locals swear that a swim in these naturally hot sources brings on healing effects to the body thanks to the water’s unique mineral content. İZTUZU BEACH Located at the junction where the Dalyan Boğazı River meets the Mediterranean Sea, İztuzu is another picturesque blue paradise. Situated 12km from Dalyan, İztuzu’s particularity lies in its geography – find the river on one side and the sea on the other. Pristine waters and fine sand make it an ideal swimming hole and it also doubles as a nesting site for the peaceful loggerhead sea turtle. Paragliders above Ölüdeniz beach. Opposite, from top: Butterfly Valley; a sunlounging pier in Antalya. Previous page: A yacht achored in the crystalline Aegean SeaNext >