< Previous©2020 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, St. Regis and their logos are the trademarks of M arriott International, Inc., or its affiliates. Connoisseur of Rare and Boutique Experiences A true gem of quintessential luxury and exquisite service is effortlessly presented within the 55 elegant suites at The St. Regis Abu Dhabi. Adorned with exclusive furnishing, mother of pearl details, illuminating crystal chandeliers, onyx mosaics and white Carrara marble, you are invited to discover the perfect merge of the Arabian mystique design and the classic St. Regis heritage. Extending from 65m2 to 1120m2 and remaining true to the promise of bespoke and personalized experiences, The St. Regis Butler Service will offer you a comfortable and memorable stay. The St. Regis Abu Dhabi Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates t. +971 2 694 4444 stregisabudhabi.com Stay exquisite at more than 40 St. Regis hotels and resorts worldwide. @stregishotelsFebruary 2020 Condé Nast Traveller 21 EDITOR´S LETTER I n many ways I think of 2019 as my year of Africa. In eight months, I made four trips – to South Africa, Kenya, Ethiopia and Rwanda – and my time in each of these diverse sub-Saharan countries made me ever more acutely aware of two things. One, just how beautiful and awe-inspiring this planet we call home is. And two, how great the need is for increased eco- consciousness and conservation and sustainability efforts. In April when I visited Cape Town – one of the most stunningly beautiful places I’ve ever been – the country was contending with a water-shortage crisis. There was a little card in my hotel bathroom urging guests to consider their water consumption. Which made me think that it shouldn’t take a crisis for us to be mindful of consumption – the fact is, by the time it’s a crisis, it’s almost too late. That’s the case with wildlife endangerment, too. While in Kenya I visited the Mount Kenya Wildlife Conservancy and Animal Orphanage, where I was introduced to the near-extinct bongo, a large antlered antelope with pretty stripes down its sides that most people have never heard of let alone seen, and in Nairobi I watched orphaned baby elephants being bottle-fed at the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, which rehabilitates and re-wilds these babies who were left bereft by wildlife- human conflict, which is not just restricted to poaching but to human encroachment on wildlife terrain. Every time we reclaim land, there’s a consequence – and not just for the animals but the environment at large. There’s no getting away from it, environmental damage and climate change are real. And dealing with it is essential for the future of Earth – and us. There’s a debate raging about whether or not we should travel as much as we have since the Jet Age began; after all, frequent-flying does generate a large carbon footprint. “Flight shaming” has become a thing, and the most talked-about environmentalist, 17-year-old Greta Thunberg, has eschewed airplanes altogether. While reducing unnecessary air travel is certainly one means of helping, there’s the danger of it being taken too far. After all, the travel industry is a major contributor to countries’ economic growth, employing millions of people across the globe while providing income opportunities for millions more in auxiliary jobs. Travel spend can be used to fund local causes and build awareness. And when done responsibly and authentically, travel leads to greater cultural understanding, bridge building and a more accepting, global mind-set. Travel can be a force for good. Of course, with great power comes great responsibility. And the travel industry is making strides. Hotels have taken a greener turn (find out how on page 62), and to encourage these efforts, our annual Gold List round-up of fabulous hotels around the world is themed green (p 98). Hotels, no matter how wonderful, that have not yet bolstered their eco-cred simply did not make this year’s list. The selection on these pages isn’t exhaustive – we’re glad to say there are more sustainability-minded hotels out there – but it’s a good starting point to make your next booking one you can feel good about. Last November in Rwanda, I was privileged to spend an hour with the endangered wild mountain gorillas that inhabit the country’s Volcanoes National Park. It was particularly humbling given the delicacy of their very existence. But beyond the memories of that goosebumps-worthy encounter, I came away impressed by the steps the Rwandan government has taken toward sustainability and conservation across the country (they were among the first countries to ban plastic bags, for instance). We can all do our part for the planet, but ultimately it’s big industry and government on whom we should place the major onus. This issue is dedicated to a more responsible way of travelling. Let’s start this new decade right. RHEA SARAN Editor in Chief @rheasaran TRUTH IN TRAVEL This is our promise to the reader to be an essential source of honest opinion and must-have information. You can trust Condé Nast Traveller to give you the unbiased inside track, with integrity and authority. Follow us: @cntravellerme Clockwise from top left: Six Senses Zighy Bay is a green hotel on the Gold List; at a cultural village in Rwanda; wild mountain gorillas22 Condé Nast Traveller February 2020 CONTRIBUTORS Sanjay Surana A former editor at Condé Nast Traveler US, Surana has since moved to Asia where he has written for Afar, CNN, DestinAsian, Financial Times, The New York Times, South China Morning Post and Wall Street Journal. Based in: Singapore Wrote: Vegetarian in Manila, p 50 Writing the vegetarian feature on Manila was interesting because… “In a city – and country – that’s not known for its vegetarian food, it was exciting to hunt out places that serve plant-based dishes that still manage to capture the local flavours. Vegetarianism is growing worldwide and it’s reassuring to see that Manila is taking notice.” What is your favourite sustainable-travel experience? “Elephant Village Sanctuary & Resort near Luang Prabang in Laos. It rehabilitates elephants rescued from the logging industry and used to offer rides on them, but has begun to phase that out completely. It allows these animals to live a peaceful life with dignity.” Eirini Hannah Originally from Greece, Hannah studied Fine Arts and Art Restoration but her passion for beauty led her to the world of make-up artistry. She got her start in London working on theatre and TV productions, as well as privately, before arriving in Dubai where the multiculturalism continues to inspire. Based in: Dubai Hair & make-up: Cover and Gold List 2020, p 98 Creating the hair and make-up looks for the cover shoot was fun because… “I loved how each of us on the shoot connected, knowing from the first moment what we needed to achieve and how to do it. This goes hand-in-hand with the fascinating location in Oman’s mountains. The natural and peaceful environment made it a magical experience.” What is your favourite sustainable-travel experience? “I was impressed by our shoot location, Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort, and its sustainability efforts, such as working to replace all disposable plastic in the hotel by the end of 2020. The hotel also donates OMR 1 per night per guest to the Environment Society of Oman, which protects the endangered Egyptian vulture.” Toby Skinner Skinner is a contributing editor to the UK edition of Condé Nast Traveller while also writing features on people and places for the Financial Times, BBC Travel and many of the world’s inflight magazines. Based in: London Wrote: Gold dust rush, p 116 What was special about writing the Taghazout feature? “The great thing about Taghazout is just how ‘other’ it still feels. It has managed to develop as a surf village while somehow holding on to its soul, and flying in still feels like arriving in a different world. It’s like travelling used to feel.” What is your favourite sustainable-travel experience? “I love ski touring as a more sustainable alternative to using lifts. The Sunnmore Alps in central Norway are incredible – skinning up to the top of mountains, then sometimes skiing all the way down to the fjords. I went a few years ago with Headnorth Norway and stayed at the Juvet Landscape Hotel, in the glassy nature-facing pods where Alex Garland’s Ex Machina was filmed.” Prasad Ramamurthy Previously the Features Director at and one of the founding editors of the Indian edition of Condé Nast Traveller, Ramamurthy has written on a range of subjects pertaining to luxury lifestyle, from hotels to airlines, fashion and food. He was also a Senior News Editor at NDTV 24x7 and produced shows such as Urban Trends and Witness. Based in: Mumbai Wrote: Room for change, p 62 What surprised you when writing about hotels going green? “The use of AI to reduce wastage, switching from plastic to, say, bamboo, and going local – these are all intelligent moves. But I was surprised by ideas like converting sheets into shirts and flowers into care packets.” What is your favourite sustainable-travel experience? “Recently I visited Reni Pani Jungle Lodge in the Satpura Tiger Reserve in central India where over 80 per cent of the employees are local, as is the source of the food served. Built using local materials, other measures included investing in reforesting the region using indigenous flora, and creating non-forest-dependent revenue sources for locals.”EMBARK ON LIMITLESS ESCAPES COZUMEL MZAAR FUJAIRAH CHENNAI HUA HIN KOH SAMUI DANANG SANYA BALI OKINAWA SANCTUARY COVE Enjoy a memorable stay in our Classic Garden View Room with indulgent buffet spreads at Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner in NAMA Global Dining. Take delight in endless soft beverages and house alcoholic beverages from a select menu at all our culinary destinations. Please reserve your Limitless Experience starting at AED 699+++ per night with this promo code CNTLMT2. Book now at reservation.fjrae@ihg.com or call at +971 9 209 9999. Terms and Conditions: - Subject to 10% service charge,10% municipality fee and 5% VAT. - Up to 2 children under 6 years eat and stay complimentary on existing bedding. 6 - 11.99 years at 50%. - Experience valid from 1 st February to 29 th February 2020. - Terms and Conditions apply. Subject to availability.The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the reader’s particular circumstances. The ownership of trademarks is acknowledged. No part of this publication or any part of the contents thereof may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form without the permission of the publishers in writing. An exemption is hereby granted for extracts used for the purpose of fair review. ITP MEDIA GROUP PO Box 500024, Dubai, UAE Tel: +971 4 444 3000 www.itp.com CEO Ali Akawi CFO Toby Jay Spencer-Davies Managing Director Sue Holt Deputy Managing Director Martin Chambers EDITORIAL Editor in Chief Rhea Saran Deputy Editor Laurel Munshower Associate Art Director John Gomez Digital Editor Alice Holtham condenasttraveller@itp.com CONTRIBUTORS Tanveer Badal, Julien Capmeil, Helena Devincenti, Mike MacEacheran, Oliver Pilcher, Manu Sharma, Michael Turek, Elizabeth Whiston-Dew, Jenny Zarins ADVERTISING Commercial Director Salma Eddinari +971 4 444 3588 salma.eddinari@itp.com Senior Sales Manager Chaitali Khimji +971 4 444 3157 chaitali.khimji@itp.com US Advertising Manager Alessandro Cremona +1 212 380 8236 alessandro_cremona@condenast.com Asia Sales Representative Peter Jeffery +852 3910 6388; peterjeffery@asianimedia.com Italy Sales Representative Valentina Donini +39 02805 1422; valentina.donini@miasrl.it PHOTOGRAPHY Senior Photographers Efraim Evidor, Adel Rashid Staff Photographers Fritz Asuro, Aasiya Jagadeesh, Ajith Narendra, Jessica Samson PRODUCTION & DISTRIBUTION Group Production & Distribution Director Kyle Smith Production Manager Denny Kollannoor Production Coordinator Balasubramanian P Image Editor Jemima Joy MARKETING & CIRCULATION Circulation Manager Vanessa D'Souza Retail Marketing Manager Praveen Nair Condé Nast Traveller Middle East is a registered trademark in all the countries of the GCC and is published under licence from Condé Nast by Arab Publishing Partners Inc PO Box 3444, Road Town, BVI © Condé Nast 2020 PUBLISHED BY CONDÉ NAST Chief Executive Officer Roger Lynch Chief Operating Officer & President, International Wolfgang Blau Global Chief Revenue Officer & President, U.S. Revenue Pamela Drucker Mann U.S. Artistic Director and Global Content Advisor Anna Wintour Chief of Staff Samantha Morgan Chief Data Officer Karthic Bala Chief Client Officer Jamie Jouning CONDÉ NAST ENTERTAINMENT President Oren Katzeff Executive Vice President–Alternative Programming Joe LaBracio Executive Vice President–CNÉ Studios Al Edgington Executive Vice President–General Manager of Operations Kathryn Friedrich CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD Jonathan Newhouse WORLDWIDE EDITIONS France: AD, AD Collector, Glamour, GQ, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Vogue Collections, Vogue Hommes Germany: AD, Glamour, GQ, GQ Style, Vogue India: AD, Condé Nast Traveller, GQ, Vogue Italy: AD, Condé Nast Traveller, Experienceis, Glamour, GQ, La Cucina Italiana, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Wired Japan: GQ, Rumor Me, Vogue, Vogue Girl, Vogue Wedding, Wired Mexico and Latin America: AD Mexico, Glamour Mexico, GQ Mexico and Latin America, Vogue Mexico and Latin America Spain: AD, Condé Nast College Spain, Condé Nast Traveler, Glamour, GQ, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Vogue Niños, Vogue Novias Taiwan: GQ, Interculture, Vogue United Kingdom: London: HQ, Condé Nast College of Fashion and Design, Vogue Business; Britain: Condé Nast Johansens, Condé Nast Traveller, Glamour, GQ, GQ Style, House & Garden, LOVE, Tatler, The World of Interiors, Vanity Fair, Vogue,Wired United States: Allure, Architectural Digest, Ars Technica, basically, Bon Appétit, Clever, Condé Nast Traveler, epicurious, Glamour, GQ, GQ Style, healthy ish , HIVE, Pitchfork, Self, Teen Vogue, them., The New Yorker, The Scene, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Wired PUBLISHED UNDER JOINT VENTURE Brazil: Casa Vogue, Glamour, GQ, Vogue Russia: AD, Glamour, Glamour Style Book, GQ, GQ Style, Tatler, Vogue PUBLISHED UNDER LICENSE OR COPYRIGHT COOPERATION Australia: GQ, Vogue, Vogue Living Bulgaria: Glamour China: AD, Condé Nast Center of Fashion & Design, Condé Nast Traveler, GQ, GQ Style, Vogue, Vogue Film, Vogue Me Czech Republic and Slovakia: La Cucina Italiana, Vogue Germany: GQ Bar Berlin Greece: Vogue Hong Kong: Vogue Hungary: Glamour Iceland: Glamour Korea: Allure, GQ, Vogue Middle East: AD, Condé Nast Traveller, GQ, Vogue, Vogue Café Riyadh, Wired Poland: Glamour, Vogue Portugal: GQ, Vogue, Vogue Café Porto Romania: Glamour Russia: Tatler Club, Vogue Café Moscow Serbia: La Cucina Italiana South Africa: Glamour, Glamour Hair, GQ, GQ Style, House & Garden, House & Garden Gourmet Thailand: GQ, Vogue The Netherlands: Glamour, Vogue, Vogue Living, Vogue Man, Vogue The Book Turkey: GQ, La Cucina Italiana, Vogue Ukraine: Vogue, Vogue Café Kiev Condé Nast is a global media company producing premium content with a footprint of more than 1 billion consumers in 31 markets. condenast.comCAMBODIA CHINA INDONESIA MALDIVES MOZAMBIQUE OMAN QATAR SRILANKA THAILAND UNITED ARAB EMIRATES VIETNAM ZAMBIA LIFE IS A JOURNEY. 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WHERE TO GO IN 2020 l FAJER KAISI AGENDA PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES Whether they’re having a noteworthy luxury hotel boom or celebrating a historical anniversary year or capitalising on their natural bounty, these are the 13 cities and countries to put in your crosshairs right now Armenia’s Caucasus MountainsFebruary 2020 Condé Nast Traveller 27 ARMENIA The Caucasus has been on the up for the past couple of years, with visitor numbers to Georgia booming. Yet neighbouring Armenia has been somewhat overlooked – until now. This charming country has much to offer. Its food scene – a heaving panoply of honey-drenched baklava, pillowy manti dumplings and wheelbarrow loads of lavash bread – is up there with Tbilisi’s, and pretty Yerevan is bursting with bookshop cafés (such as the unpretentious ArtBridge Bookstore Café) and traditional restaurants that look like Old Master paintings (Dolmama on Pushkin Street serves Armenian lamb shank and baby red spotted trout, as well as the hearty dolmas it’s named after). The country was the first to adopt Christianity as a state religion in 301 AD, and its mountain crags are home to some of the world’s earliest churches. But there’s more to Armenia than its ecclesiastical flourishes. The recently waymarked Transcaucasian Trail offers lung-pinching hiking (including a part ascension of the towering Mount Ararat) and work will continue throughout 2020 to complete the network of world-class trails running through Dilijan National Park, the Gegham Mountains and Vayots Dzor. If you want to lead the way, join a guided supporters’ trek in 2020 to test the trails. In the meantime, adrenalin fiends can make do with mountain biking and zip lining between the snow- capped mountains. Armenia’s grape industry is becoming increasingly well-oiled, too – unsurprising, given that what are believed to be the world’s oldest-known traces of grapemaking have been found at the 6,000-year-old Areni-1 archaeological site in the south. Areni – with its modern, award-winning vineyards – is emerging as one of the most exciting new grape regions in the world (Armenian whites typically offer notes of tropical and stone fruit, while the Vayots Dzor Areni Noir has a spicy bouquet with cherry notes). The Van Ardi grapery is currently building places to stay here overlooking the vines, scheduled for completion in 2020. In lush Vayots Dzor, the country’s first grape route has been established, and will soon compete with South Africa and New Zealand for the coins of adventurous oenophiles after more unusual tasting experiences. – Lizzie Pook BHUTAN At a time in human history when things can seem bleak – devastating bushfires from Australia to Brazil, melting icecaps, a refugee crisis, geopolitical conflicts, a global economic slump – the need for an escape to a gentler, kinder world is more pressing than ever. Bhutan, with happiness as a key measure of its success – where other countries focus on GDP, they prioritise GNH (gross national happiness) – is that idyllic retreat. A haven of peace, mindfulness, wellness, spirituality, natural beauty and sustainability (it’s 100 per cent carbon neutral) the country serves as an example of how leaders can make the important things count. That’s not to say the material side of things are entirely missing. Eco-luxe and wellness big-hitter Six Senses opened four of five lodges across the country last year, with its fifth scheduled in the first half of 2020. Luxury is not lacking yet mindfulness permeates throughout the experience. The same can be said of the recently opened Spirit Sanctuary in Paro, an all-inclusive boutique property with tailor-made wellness at its heart. Also in Paro, the National Museum of Bhutan just reopened after a long restoration following a 2011 earthquake – a must- do to get a sense of the history and treasures of Bhutan. Hiking scenic trails, visiting monasteries and meditating amid nature are de rigueur when visiting, but perhaps what is less known is that Bhutan’s F&B scene has stepped up, too – it even has its own Japanese ramen shop. Craft breweries have been popping up over the past few years, and last year a Californian entrepreneur began planting a vineyard in the hopes of soon bottling some Bhutanese grape – the Bhutan Wine Company is even hosting two small luxury tour groups this year, in spring for planting and in autumn for the first harvest. – Rhea Saran "A haven of peace, wellness, spirituality, natural beauty and sustainability, the country is an example of how leaders can make the important things count"February 2020 Condé Nast Traveller 29 2020 DESTINATIONS EGYPT If you visited Egypt after 2011 you’ll know its tourism industry was badly hit by the fallout of the removal of two presidents. In 2016, the homeland of some of the world’s finest ancient treasures had fewer visitors than the Met Museum in New York or the British Museum. All that is quickly changing – Egypt is hot, hot, hot for 2020 with plenty that’s old to rediscover and an abundance of new to amaze and delight. The most obvious attraction will be the opening of the long-overdue Grand Egyptian Museum, anticipated toward the end of the year. The AED 3.7 billion glass-and-stone building on the edge of the pyramid plateau in Giza will be the world’s largest archaeological museum and its vast multi- level, multi-media space will showcase the best of Egypt’s antiquities including, for the first time, all of Tutankhamun’s 5,000-plus treasures. Among the other monuments that have been opened or re-opened, the spectacular Tomb of Seti I in the Valley of the Kings and the interior of the Step Pyramid at Saqqara, the oldest of Egypt’s many pyramids, stand out. But there is more to Egypt than monuments and Nile cruises. Cairo’s art scene is buzzing, with new galleries and cultural centres. New top-end hotels are underway throughout the country including the June 2020 opening of the much-anticipated St. Regis Cairo; Sharm el Sheikh, on the southern tip of the Sinai peninsula, is once again welcoming international flights; and there are new walking trails with local guides in Sinai and the Eastern Desert. All in all, the country’s poised for a comeback. – Anthony Sattin GALWAY, IRELAND This year, Ireland’s effervescent west-coast city throws its arms open wide to the world as the 2020 European Capital of Culture. The bohemian city spent 2019 testing new community heritage and arts projects, such as pop-up culture cafés and funambulism (tightrope-walking) workshops. But the best is yet to come this year, with some terrific events being rolled out across Galway’s pubs, hubs and beaches, including new artworks by David Best (of Burning Man fame) and a series of intimate readings of Homer’s Odyssey (using Emily Wilson’s English translation, the first by a woman) on Galway’s blustery beaches. Margaret Atwood will also take part in the city’s International Women’s Day celebrations in March. Galway’s designation as a 2018 European Region of Gastronomy has already cemented it as a fizzing foodie hub. The brilliantly beardy JP McMahon is its most high- profile chef, earning the city its first Michelin star in 2012. The ambitiously modern Loam has joined McMahon’s 24-cover Aniar as one of only two Michelin-starred joints in the city, but it’s what’s happening away from the notebooks of the Michelin inspectors that’s most exciting. Galway is home to the world’s longest-running oyster festival (66 years of shucking so far), which also sees the World Oyster Opening Championships whip up competitive fervour among shellfish enthusiasts. You’ll find local Dooncastle and Flaggy Shore oysters (as well as natural grape and exquisite seaweed shortbread) served up at McMahon’s latest terroir-based opening, Tartare. And in nearby Burren, 40 minutes from the city, a raft of local producers are bolstering Galway’s gourmet credentials with a focus on fish-smoking, cheese-making and small-batch brewing. Unsurprisingly, the city – which is also a mid-point stop along the 2,550km Wild Atlantic Way driving route – will welcome a clutch of new hotel openings in 2020. The most promising of which looks to be the Dean Galway, a sister hotel to the moody, Brooklyn- feel Dean Dublin, on the spot of an old dry cleaners in Bohermore. – LP PHOTOS: KIATTIPONG PANCHEE, ANITA MURPHY, SHUTTERSTOCK From top: The Karnak Temple Complex, Egypt; preparing a dish at Aniar in Galway. Opposite: Six Senses Bhutan in ThimphuNext >