< PreviousAD X LINDBERG 66 admiddleeast.com LINDBERG thintanium, 5523. The eyewear specialist brings new standards to user experience with personalised design solutions and an array of options: from materials and styles, to shapes and colours. Model: Vita at MMG Make-up & hair: Kerris Charles AD_047_62-66_PROMO_Lindberg_12633623.indd 6604/10/2022 10:23:02 PMAn original artwork by Mattar Bin Lahej inspired by the home of Audemars Piguet WATCHES & JEWELLERY SPECIAL AD_047_01_W&J_Cover AP_12632588.indd 205/10/2022 12:16:50 PMcollection quatre quatre collection AE-Boucheron-Quatre-Cuffs-Anja-AD-215x275mm.indd 103/10/2022 15:00Time Keepers 10 Watches and jewellery are sentimental pieces, not just because they are passed down through generations as a reminder of loved ones and special moments, but also because these bijoux creations celebrate art, innovation and artisanship at its zenith. What follows is our pick of future heirlooms from this year’s dazzling designs. 5 Watches & Jewellery ON THE COVER Inspired by Audemars Piguet’s multi-faceted world in Le Brassus, artist Mattar Bin Lahej’s artwork for AD’s debut Watches & Jewellery Special reads: ‘To build a strong individual is to build a strong, free and stable society where everyone plays their part, learning from the past and present to create the future.’ AD_047_3_W&J_Welcome_12647415.indd 305/10/2022 05:06:44 PMAbout Face The floral dial of the new Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust is a goldsmith’s work of ar Watches & Jewellery Synonymous with timeless elegance, the Rolex Datejust is a notable chapter in watchmaking history: it was the fi rst waterproof automatic wristwatch to display the date through a window that changes every day at midnight. We don’t conceive of modern watchmaking without this seemingly simple design detail (later perfected with the introduction of the iconic Cyclops magnifying lens), but until 1945, when the Datejust appeared to commemorate Rolex’s 40th anniversary, the date was usually indicated by a needle that pointed to the days inscribed on the contour of the dial. Milestones aside, it is still is one of the best designed timepieces to wear for all occasions. In one of the most famous photos taken of Grace Kelly, she is seen wearing a Gucci kaftan, a pink turban and a gold Lady Datejust. It’s now an instantly recognisable classic, even though Rolex innovates in the details. This time, the Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31 mm has been sprinkled with fl oral motifs and diamonds. In azure blue, olive green or silver, the dials are adorned with 24 fl owers whose centre is diamond set and whose petals are enhanced by a sunburst, matte or grained fi nish. Brilliantly elegant. – JUAN CLAUDIO MATOSSIAN AD_047_4_W&J_Rolex_12644677.indd 405/10/2022 05:42:19 PMto 3D effect, it is perhaps surprising that this is the fi rst collection in which de Castellane takes a turn into couture’s mastery of prints. Checks, stripes and fl oral patterns are realised in precious stones, their setting a confection of cuts, rainbow hues and texture. The fl oral print of one 1948 dress-inspired a necklace of tiny multi-coloured daisies set in relief on a ribbon of diamonds and gold that wends its way about the neck. Simple diamond line brooches suggest abstract offcuts of couture fabric. In a matching set of necklace and earrings, an ombré effect is achieved by using blue sapphires that bleed their way haphazardly into a network of white diamonds. “In every aspect of my life, I don’t want to be bound,” laughs de Castellane. She is a designer who lets her imagination run riot with an idea for a jewel, before challenging Dior’s atelier of master craftspeople to bring it to life. One such creation is Dior Print’s masterpiece necklace, a delicate interlacing of multiple precious ribbons in different patterns, colours and textures. The challenge of how to make this magnifi cent bib fl exible, light and wearable owes its success to Dior’s watchmaking skills. Beneath its bejewelled patterns lies a hidden network of tiny watch bracelet links that ensures a perfect fi t every time. Ultimately, de Castellane is led by a quest for balance of colour, shape and movement: “I think of every piece as a family that has to work together.” Fait accompli. Dior.com – RACHEL GARRA HAN For Victoire de Castellane, creating jewellery for Dior is above all, “a quest for joy.” More than ever since the pandemic, colour and pattern have become important to her as they are guaranteed to raise a smile. “I want joy because the world is tough,” she says. She was among the fi rst high jewellers to incorporate a wide palette of coloured gemstones beyond the traditional Big Three (rubies, sapphires and emeralds), opening our eyes to a juicy kaleidoscope of opals, spinels, tourmalines and more. That passion for colour together with her love of playfulness and asymmetry is brought to bear in de Castellane’s latest high jewellery collection, Dior Print, as opals jostle with sapphires and diamonds, and ear cuffs and mismatched earrings encapsulate a youthful wearability and a contemporary edge. Given her mastery of colour and mixing of gem cuts ODE TO JOY Dior’s couture-inspired high jewellery collection is sure to raise a smile Maria Grazia Chiuri created 40 unique, exquisite gowns for the presentation at the Grand Hotel Timeo in Sicily. AD_047_5_W&J_Dior_12647236.indd 504/10/2022 11:10:07 PMDouble Take Watches & Jewellery From delicate water lilies and vibrant coral reefs, to mythical creatures of the deep, Cartier’s Beautés du Monde high jewellery collection is a dazzling celebration of the natural world. A colourful selection of necklaces, rings and earrings nods to Louis-François Cartier, whose passion for eye-catching stones and ability to dream up fantastical designs continues to fi re the imagination of the maison. Crafted in the great tradition of transformable jewellery, the Apatura necklace is the star of the show, doubling its allure with a detachable pendant, which can be worn as a brooch. In a stylised interpretation of a butterfl y’s wings, a set of iridescent Australian opals – weighing 22.08 carats – are surrounded by sapphires and diamonds set in strong, geometric lines. A departure from Cartier’s usual choice of bold and bright stones, the focus on opals is unexpected, but the classical, radiating design of the pendant recalls the brand’s signature exuberance. cartier.com – P.S. AD_047_6_W&J_Cartier_12647187.indd 604/10/2022 11:11:03 PMJewel of the Nile Rooted in Egyptian folklore, jewellery powerhouse Azza Fahmy’s designs shine bright with global appeal “A very important component of our work is preserving ancient savoir-faire and sharing it with new generations of artisans and jewellery lovers around the world,” says Amina Ghali, daughter of Azza and the head of design at the family-run atelier. “And that's the beautiful thing about jewellery – a well- made piece knows no boundaries, it can be loved by different generations and cultures.” The statement snake necklace is a case in point. A signature element in traditional peasant jewellery for over 200 years, in Ancient Egypt the snake stood to represent both fertility and power. Ghali reimagines the symbol in 21 coloured cabochon gemstones. Working with her team of goldsmiths – who still operate under the ancient Ottoman hierarchy of master, trainer and trainee, thus ensuring safe passage of skill and traditions through time – she created a wrap-around effect, with the snake’s mouth locking into its tail, evoking the Egyptian symbol for rebirth, transformation and healing. Referencing stars, crescents and the all- seeing eye – symbols that were prominent during the Ottoman Empire – earrings decorated with fi ligree work and precious stones are fashioned from mabarim, a technique of twisting metal wire that was used in olden times to create medals for courage and loyalty. For the collection that took almost a year to come to fruition, its success lies in its universal appeal. Here, designs very close to the heart and history of the Egyptian people have been reimagined to be loved and coveted around the globe. For Ghali, its triumph is also personal: “It hasn’t been easy to win my mother’s approval or the respect of the craftsmen. It’s taken time and hard work, and I feel with this collection I’ve done them proud.” azzafahmy.com – P.S. For more than half a century, Azza Fahmy has kept the fi re burning for Egypt’s historic jewellery making traditions. Imbuing ancient symbols – often inspired by protection amulets and nature – with a contemporary spirit, her eponymous atelier is one of the fi rst and most enduring luxury brands from the region. Known for its bold, unexpected use of gemstones and intricate calligraphy that conceals endearing messages, the brand’s latest collection, Wonders of Nature Reimagined, reclaims traditional Egyptian motifs that have been popularised by western jewellery houses – such as the serpent and the sun – by envisioning them in fresh, modern designs that maintain links to local styles and craft. Well-made jewellery knows no boundaries. It can be loved by different generations and cultures AD_047_7_W&J_Azza Fahmy_12647398.indd 704/10/2022 11:11:54 PMFine Time Created in collaboration with Ferrari, Richard Mille’s new watch is a technical feat of ex reme slenderness Watches & Jewellery AD_47_8-9_Richard Mille Ferrari_12630585.indd 804/10/2022 11:14:40 PMInspired by design and architecture, Swiss brand Richard Mille’s watches are renowned for their precision crafts manship and breathtaking technological innovation. The com- pany often consults with top sportsmen and women, for whom the notions of time and performance are intrinsically linked, and col- laborations with Rafael Nadal, Alain Prost and Fernando Alonso have all yielded groundbreaking designs. The latest marvel to issue from the Richard Mille workshops at Les Breuleux in the Jura Mountains is the RM UP-01 Ferrari. It’s re- markable for its ultra-slim titanium dial, which is just 1.75 millimetres thick – less than a compact disc. The watchmaker entered into a multi-platform partnership with the Italian car supremo in 2021, and this is the fi rst con- sumer launch to emerge from that project: in the watchmaker’s words, “an extreme watch designed for everyday use.” The limited-edition timepiece, of which just 150 will be made, was born of a self-im- posed challenge. Having created the RM 27-01 with Rafael Nadal, which at the time of its 2013 launch was the lightest tourbillon watch in the world, the watchmaker next set its sights on a new technical feat: the fl attest de- sign imaginable, which would combine an ar- chitectural aesthetic with ergonomics and high functionality, but without compromising on resilience. It’s extremely hard to make a watch this fl at, rigid and robust, but after years of research and development and doz- ens of prototypes and lab tests, the design team settled on grade 5 titanium, which deliv- ers both strength and lightness (the move- ment weighs just 2.82 grams). In order to achieve the ultra-slim dial, they had to completely rethink the architecture of the watch case, eliminating certain compo- nents and reshaping others. Consequently, the two crowns that control the RM UP-01’s functions are integrated into the watch face, surrounded by black ceramic inserts for wa- ter resistance; they can be operated by hand or with a dedicated tool. Elements that could no longer be stacked, such as the watch hands, are built into the face, which has an overscaled surface area that makes it espe- cially visually arresting. The design’s compact calibre guarantees a high level of shock resist- ance, making it a practical piece for everyday wear. Impressively, it also boasts a 45-hour power reserve, which should prove invalua- ble for travelling and busy lifestyles. Like a Formula One engine that delivers extreme performance, the RM UP-01 fuses the expertise of Richard Mille and Ferrari’s creative teams, uniting functionality and the slick, industrial style beloved of car enthusi- asts. “The unique relationship between the case and the movement is without precedent among our creations,” says Salvador Arbona, technical director for movements at Richard Mille. “In the quest for absolute fl atness, we had to offer something that, far from just be- ing a ‘concept watch’, was up to the task of following a user’s daily life – whatever the cir- cumstances.” richardmille.com – AMY BRADFORD A F1 driver Carlos Sainz Jr. sporting the RM UP-01 Ferrari. RIGHT: The movement being painstakingly assembled. OPPOSITE PAGE: The ultra-slim timepiece is just 1.75mm thick. AD_47_8-9_Richard Mille Ferrari_12630585.indd 904/10/2022 11:14:51 PMNext >